To Wash or Not To Wash (Jackets)

[oftpiste]

Interesting point made in the Gore instructions in post #39....

If your jacket has a wicking liner use spray-on. If not use wash-in. Always wondered if that was the case. Makes sense but the Nikwax instructions don't tell you that.

[lynchdogger]

How are Nickwax products the best? I find their Leather product to be awesome. Everything else, lamesauce and not great.

I dunno? It's all I've ever used and has worked great. But open for trying new things. Just one man's opinion. There is some good stuff in this thread - nice post OP.

[lynchdogger]

WLGore advised me to dry my Goretex in the Dryer to rejuvenate it.

Hugh, should I put my Goretex in the dryer to rejuvenate it?!

[schindlerpiste]

I need to wash my Theta SV shell. I bought some KIWI Performance Fabric Protection (Advanced polymer [non-silicone] protection). Is this the same as Granger's? Recommended, not recommended? I don't want to ruin my, otherwise, great jacket.

[bbense]

After 20+ years of experience trying every means to keep my shells in working shape, I agree with many of the above comments, including:

-- don't wash until the factory DWR wears off such that water no longer beads up cuz factory DWR works better than subseqently applied DWR

-- after use in wet weather, if possible, throw wet garment in dryer to dry. this seems to help the DWR work better next time. (note this works for both factory and subsequently applied DWR)

-- after factory DWR has worn off, wash with frangrant free soap or detergent, then rinse like hell (at least one full wash/rinse cycle with no soap)

-- then let garment drip dry for a half hour or so and then, while garment is still saturated (but not dripping) with water, use spray-on DWR (I like Grainger, others like Revivex) and toss in dryer per spray-on DWR mgr's instructions

+1 for all that. Almost all my gear goes in the dryer after every trip. My stuff lives in the basement so it's important to have it completely dry before storage.

[gregL]

For clarity: you're saying wash twice, second time without detergent and treat with spray-on BEFORE throwing into a hot dryer?

What about using oxy-clean or shout to treat stubborn stains during the initial wash cycle? Safe?

Will all membrane type jackets likely be safe using this treatment or are they different enough that they might require different methods?

Thanks for this thread. kept me from having to start it!

Yes, wash twice (or just run the rinse cycle the second time). A medium dryer is fine; it also helps to iron the fabric (warm iron, ~wool). Don't know about OxyClean, but I use Shout quite a bit on GORE-TEX and eVent without issue.

Some membranes adhere better to the face fabrics than others, and some take washing and heat better than others.

[gregL]

Interesting point made in the Gore instructions in post #39....

If your jacket has a wicking liner use spray-on. If not use wash-in. Always wondered if that was the case. Makes sense but the Nikwax instructions don't tell you that.

Personally, I don't see any reason to have your DWR on the inside of the membrane regardless of whether the garment is 2L or 3L; you want the pores of the membrane to be as clean as possible and the DWR is designed to protect the face fabric.

+1 to the people who say the aftermarket DWR is never as good as the factory stuff.

[zeroforhire]

Depends on the fabric. eVent has to be washed often, gore tex... Not as much. I wash mine once or twice a season.

I use that sport wash that you can get at Walmart. Found in the outdoors section. Way cheaper than nikwax or grangier, and works just fine.

[Rideski]

^ Are you talking about Sports Edge? I found in in the soap section, I asked 3 people and nobody there knew what nikwax was or if this was the knockoff brand. Tried Target first for what it's worth and didn't see anything there. This is still detergent and I thought it was supposed to be non detergent. But if definitely talks about wicking and high tech fabrics on the label.

[Charly]

I think zeroforhire is referring to a product called Sport-Wash.

"Sport-Wash Biodegradable Laundry Detergent is residue free, scent free and utilizes no brighteners, yet it restores performance on high-tech fabrics and restores loft and effectiveness to down and synthetic insulation. This product cleans and deodorizes, and it maximizes the benefits of high-efficiency machines.


Sport-Wash Biodegradable Laundry Detergent:

• Residue free
• Scent free
• No brighteners
• Restores performance features on high-tech fabrics
• Cleans and deodorizes
• Restores loft and effectiveness to down and synthetic insulation
• Helps breathable, waterproof fabrics breathe
• Restores factory-applied water repellents
• Readily biodegradable
• Septic safe
• Maximizes the benefits of high-efficiency machines"

I can't post links yet, it is easily found by googling 'walmart sport wash'.

It is in the camping section in the stores.

[::: :::]

can anyone confirm/deny that you shouldn't be drying outerwear in a dryer that is regularly used with fabric softener sheets?
or is it just that you shouldn't be putting a fabric softening sheet in with the garment during drying?

i'm under the impression that fabric softener degrades the DWR...correct me if i'm wrong

[Lindahl]

Anyone have a cheap source for spray-on?

[GeezerSteve]

I've done my most recent DWR refreshes with 303 (High Tech) Fabric Guard. Pretty cheap in 32 oz. size. Can't yet say whether it's gonna work better or worse than Revivex (which IME works better than all the Nikwax products). Will know more after wet brushy approaches starting in spring. I've been spraying 303 HTFG on clean dry garments, like I used the Revivex.

[XXX-er]

Steve thats a solvent based treatment as opposed to the water based treatment ?

[GeezerSteve]

Yes, solvent-based fluoropolymer. Make certain to give it ample time to cure, 12+ hours @ room temperature.

[XXX-er]

yeah I've got a eye out for it ^^ but the only thing I have ever seen up here is the water based grangers/revivex/nikwax which all seemed to work about the same

[GeezerSteve]

303 HTFG is available from Amazon and marine supply stores. If it works okay I'll likely buy a gallon for around $53.

[XXX-er]

Good idea marine stores cuz the outdoor stores seem to be all about the water base enviromently friendly thing

[Meathelmet]

Steve and XXX, have any of those stuff made and actual difference for you? I mean, have tried some wash stuff, spray ons etc and the results have been
less than stellar. Sprayons (nikwax?) cant cover a single jacket properly, leaves it blemsished and doesnt shed water like the original, or at all.
The washing based have been even less effective.

I have resided to not give a toss and have my jackets clammy after the year 1..and the next years are just for waiting when zippers & bits start to fall off.

[XXX-er]

Yup wash in powdered detergent, wash again in WATER ONLY to get all detergent out of the piece, use the spray-on water based product to soak down a garment already WET from the washer and into a dryer ... i do this once a year

Not sure how Steve's solvent based product works, he sez its > water based and I am willing to believe him

a 300ml spray bottle should do > 1 jacket, I am thinking more like 2-3

[Charly]

I have used the 303 (bought it at a West Marine, RV supply places often carry it too....it is used to treat dodgers, biminis, and awnings) on my textile motorbike jackets. I found it worked well. I used to ride my bike as a daily driver, and carried a backpack daily...the 303 also helped with UV protection.

[RockinB]

303 is a common UV protectant used on rafts. The stuff turns raft tubes into greased bowling balls! I'm curious how it works on gore or other fabrics.

[Charly]

303 didnt cause any greasiness at all on my waterproof/breathable textile motorbike jackets. sprayed on, then when dry, it is unnoticeable.

[Skistack]

303 didnt cause any greasiness at all on my waterproof/breathable textile motorbike jackets. sprayed on, then when dry, it is unnoticeable.

There's two 303 products. You're using the Armor-All type product made for plastic and rubber. They also make a fabric guard which is what BS and Charly are talking about.

[GeezerSteve]

Actually, 303 makes numerous products. I'm talking about 303 High Tech Fabric Guard.

Not sure how Steve's solvent based product works, he sez its > water based

Solvent-based: spray on clean dry garment, cures at room temperature in 12+ hours

Water-based: spray on clean damp garment, then cure with heat in dryer or with iron

Steve and XXX, have any of those stuff made and actual difference for you?

Somewhat. IME so far, no replenish DWR lasts like factory DWR (which is usually solvent-based). Solvent-based > water-based IME. But IME all DWR will abrade off after a few brushy approaches. Factory last a few extra brushy approaches.