Check Out Our Shop
Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Help with mounting/matting photos

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    13,813

    Help with mounting/matting photos

    I am lost, the google is little help.

    I am trying to frame and mat my own photos. Building the frame is no problem...but I am a little confused on the steps to matting/mounting.

    I bought some precut mats, no problem there. But what goes behind the photo to keep it dead flat (it's a pretty big print)? Also, what is the recommended method to attach the photo to the matting?

    Any and all help appreciated, thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    at work
    Posts
    1,437
    I use Framer's tape- which is basically a really nice masking tape. You can get it at any Michael's or photo store. Lay down a nice lint free cloth/ towel on your work surface and double check everything before you seal it all up as dust, lint, threads, hairs, etc can make their way onto your matt, glass and print more than you would have ever thought imaginable. Make sure you wash your hands and get any grease, pencil, ink etc off them prior to touching our matt. Have fun.
    "Not all who wander are lost"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    13,813
    So what goes behind the photo???

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    at work
    Posts
    1,437
    Sorry- I am use to buying pre-made frames.
    You can use cardboard, matt board, posterboard, etc. to fill up space/ keep the picture from bowing out and then finish off the back with a thin piece of press board tacked on with steel brads or staple gun.

    Tutorials: http://www.cameratown.com/guides/tut.../hurl/id%7C170
    Last edited by mn_teleskier; 11-07-2008 at 12:19 PM.
    "Not all who wander are lost"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    132

    mounting

    get some foam backing board from Michael's or a craft store and some spray adhesive. spray the adhesive on the foam backing board and lay the photo on the backing board. Grab a piece of paper and lay it on top of the photo and use your hand to rub the photo tight onto the backing board. Be sure not to slide the paper around when pressing the photo down with your hand as it will leave fine scratches on the print. Then use an exacto or utility knife to cut a clean edge.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    5,516
    You guys realize that by helping Root mount and mat his photos without charging him for the advice you are stealing food from the mouths of the children of professional framers, don't you?

    Makes me sick.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    13,813
    It gets worse...I took the picture, too. WHATADOUCHE.

    damn...is this 6000? sad.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    191
    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch View Post
    You guys realize that by helping Root mount and mat his photos without charging him for the advice you are stealing food from the mouths of the children of professional framers, don't you?

    Makes me sick.

    I cut my own lawn. Guess I should cry now for not feeding some poor kid .



    http://www.documounts.com/content/home

    Look under the mounting board section.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
    Posts
    22,445
    Don't use spray adhesives if there is any value in the print, they can potentially damage them over time. Buy quality acid free materials (mats, tape, et cetera).They are a little more expensive, but wont damage the prints. Use foam core as backing, then apply a acid free paper behind that to seal the frame (dust barrier.) Never mount a photo with out a mat or spacers to prevent the photo from contacting the glass. Again, if there is value in the prints use UV resistant glass, otherwise regular glass will do, and it is cheaper.

    You can get most materials on-line and better quality the you get at most craft stores. Mats in particular, most of the pre cut stuff I see is junk, but you can custom order some really nice stuff. That includes frame too, but they get really spendy really fast.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Making the Bowl Great Again
    Posts
    13,813
    Thanks...got it dialed. Ended up at the University of Montana Bookstore...good stuff, good prices, and good advice. Now I just gotta drag the tablesaw out from behind the bikes to make the frames.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    5,516
    Quote Originally Posted by tsproul View Post
    I cut my own lawn. Guess I should cry now for not feeding some poor kid .

    I think you missed an "inside" joke. Or maybe it was too subtle for you.

    http://tetongravity.com/forums/showt...=139113&page=2

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driven way past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    3,073
    I'd go with a +3 mount
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Two Thousand Leagues
    Posts
    1,014
    Yeah, the UMT bookstore is a great source for advice. David(I think?) one of the art supply dept managers walked me through some framing questions a couple years ago.

    Michaels' often has 50% off framing/matting coupons in their flyers, available in the newspaper or at the store.

    UV-proof plexi cut-to-order is availible at TruValue and is lighter and easier to transport if your prints are going to be moved around. UV-proof glass/plexi is worth the extra cost IMO unless the print is going somewhere with almost no natural light, like a basement or bathroom.

    Spend the extra bucks for acid-free everything. You'll regret not doing so 3 or 4 years from now when the prints discolor.

    If you're trying to sell prints or display them in any kind of a show, it's worth the extra $ to take it to Michales. I'm a decent crasfman and after many attemts to miter frames, cut my own mattes, reuse old frames, buy cheap pre-made frames, etc my conclusion is that it's so time-consuming and difficult to build a finished look that it's worth the cost of having a professional take care of it. Especially with a 50% off coupon.

    If you end up doing it yourself, take the advice about lint-free cloth, clean hands and a very clean workspace to heart. I cant tell you how many times I've put image and frame together only to notice that one smudge inside the glass and to then take it all apart again.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •