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Thread: the answer to "WTF is wrong with my boots?"

  1. #551
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    388
    Need help (probably a few issues?)

    I just got Full Tilt Seth Morrisons...never would have thought to buy Full Tilt, but they fit my narrow foot well when I tried them on.

    I am a bit bow-legged and a big supinator...and maybe a bit duck footed.

    I noticed that I feel very knock-kneed to get the bases of the skis flat...particularly when skiing flats...like I cannot get in a good aggressive stance in a way that feels natural...feels like my knees are forced to go inwards, which is not the way I naturally squat when lifting, moving, etc...If I stand on the outside edge of the boot, it feels more natural, but I also feel like my supinated foot is being rolled inward as well...all in all, I do not feel that comfortable skiing them...particularly noticed today on flats and in soft snow...doesn't seem as easy to get on edge because I feel knock-kneed. Also seem to have caught a few edges..mainly on flats, but also a bit of the outside ski stem-christying, which is something I have never really experienced much of.

    Any advice? Canting + a footbed? Am I screwed because Full Tilts are not easy to can't? I already tried adjusting the upper cuff outwards...still do not feel right. That said, they are not uncomfortable on my feet. Advice? Thanks!

  2. #552
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    you are adjust the upper cuff with shims, that are under the side cuff bolts..
    are you using a footbed?
    ya, can't cant that boot well.

    try adjusting the F lean as well. both the rear shims and the big plate at the top of the upper cuff.


  3. #553
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Is canting out of the equation? How about some type of canted plates under my bindings? No footbed, and I think the guy at the store adjusted the upper cuff with shims...not sure though.

  4. #554
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    You can probably can't the boot by using a grinder to plane the sole at angle.
    People call the cuff adjustment canting. It isn't. adjusting the cuff aligns the cuff with your shin.

    Sent from my SCH-I500 using TGR Forums

  5. #555
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    If you plumb the center of your
    Knee cap, the vertical line should be just a bit inside the center line of the boot. If it isn't, you need canting.

    Shops that are not able to plane your boot wil tell you to put a shim under the footbed. Easy, but it will not work, because your shin is well encased in the boot.


    Sent from my SCH-I500 using TGR Forums
    Last edited by rod9301; 12-15-2013 at 11:00 PM.

  6. #556
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    388
    Yeah, honestly I don't know what to do. Only a couple days in these boots....just tried on my old Salomon Ghosts for comparison...no issue. I feel like giving up on these Full Tilts.

  7. #557
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    17,749
    So I'm pretty stoked.

    Long story short, someone I know was selling a pair of almost new Redster WC 130 for $250. I bought them never having tried them on figuring I could resell them w/o much financial harm if they were a bust. I don't normally do 96mm boots, but wtf.

    First day out it was like my feet were beaten with sticks and I only skied a few hrs in them. I don't normally do any grinding/punching on my own boots so took them to the bootfitter and had some spots ground. Skied them again and basically stopped skiing at noon...again. But I could see the potential here, this is one powerful boot.

    So, rather than more trips and $ to the bootfitter, I decided that I was going to give this a go myself. It took some careful grinding with a dremel, lots of sandpaper (80, 100 and 150), a homemade spreader, a heat gun and the first three seasons of Eastbound and Down on DVD.

    Skied them all last weekend and I now have the best fitting boots I have had without having to resort to an Intuition. Which in this case I don't think would have helped because the boot was just too tight in quite a few spots.

    My point being, if you have the time and lots of patience (I took them off and on at least 25x doing this), you can get plastic to obey.

  8. #558
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    well done timber: ya takes some time and tools, but a good fitting boot, can be made.

    intuitions will make that boot lighter and warmer too. Just get the thinnest and stiffest version.


  9. #559
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Maybe I should post this on Gapic but the redesign hurts my eyes.

    Planed footbeds or not.

    I always had them then when I got some new footbeds this year they told me that planing is so passé and that none does that anymore.Yet one of my friends just got new footbeeds and the boot fitter planed them?

    To me it seems to make sense, after all the bootboard is flat.
    Quote Originally Posted by twodogs View Post
    Hey Phill, why don't you post your tax returns, here on TGR, asshole. And your birth certificate.

  10. #560
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    personal preference


    you can get a foot supported by either adding stuff under the arch, or planing the heel over (small varus wedge, under the heel)


  11. #561
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    60
    I'm gonna get jonged for this but I don't want to make a thread about it. Ill delete the post if its too out of place.

    Anyway my old boots are done. Too soft and too sloppy. Went and tried on tons of boots and found that the redster pro fits my foot damn near perfect. The catch is that the shop only have them in the 120 and I'm worried that will be too soft given that I'm 6'5" 295 pounds more or less and ski aggressively and like to drive the tips.

    The question is am I better of buying the 120s, or would I be better off buying the 130s online? I'd love to support the local shop but if the boots not right the boots not right. I don't think they'd need any work so I'm not too worried about that. I'm just thinking the only difference might be that the 130 comes with interchangeable boot boards while the 120s don't.

    The next option is for about 125 bucks more I could get the redster wc 130 but that would recquire some grinding in the 5th met area and the navicular but I could get them at the shop and theyd include the work.

    What would the maggots do?

  12. #562
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    so 130 is narrower too? as well as stiffer?

    yes, get narrower and stiffer, you can always make a boot softer and wider.


  13. #563
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    60
    The wc 130 is stiffer and a 95 last and $120 more. The pro 130 is stiffer and a 98 last but only available to me online. The 120 is a 98 and at the shop. That's kinda what I am thinking but the fit on the pro is just so spot on it makes me wish for that to work. I was hoping someone had experience with them.

  14. #564
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    ask the store to order in the 98mm/130 version?

    or order online and bring into the store for work if needed?


  15. #565
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    60
    Tried option 1. Atomics out of inventory for now. Guess ill go with option 2. Thanks for the help

  16. #566
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    115
    To the bootfitter gods on here :

    I used to be in kryptons (green KR1 with intuitons) liked them a lot, 25.5, toe punches needed. but the instep seemed to high. (put a wedge under the heel which helped for a while).

    anyway when the liners were shot moved to Salomon Ghost 120 25.5. needed punches for the 6th toe. very happy, much lower instep, great tight fit all around for me.

    liners are starting to get tired so might need new boots for next season.

    I can just buy the new Ghost 130 (which I know I can get to work for my feet quite easily), but am wondering if I'm I missing out on something significant by not trying something 'more traditional' like a Nordica Patron Pro or Lange 130 RX LV ? will these boots give more precision/power ? I seem to have read between the lines here that the Ghost is not well regarded by the fitters.

    thanks

  17. #567
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    a lot of fitters didn't like the ghost as it had 2 buckles so less options and adjustment,

    for boots LOTS of 98mm options are around, just about everyone makes some.

    Full tilt
    nordica patrone
    rossi SI 130
    Technica cochise 130
    etc
    etc
    etc

    best boot is what fits you the best,


    also you can add an intuition liner to your current boots and get another 100-200 days from that?


  18. #568
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    2,769
    I've got a set of 27.0 Scarpa Maestrale RS boots. I love the fit of the boot and had a pair of the older orange Maestrales. With the recent high pressure I spent a fair amount of time in crampons and have been dealing with numb toes for a few days after. My second toe is longer than my big toe and the third toe is about equal so I the reason those two toes hurt is they are banging against the front of the boot. Would the best move be to get the toe box punched out?

    I'm a little concerned about getting the toebox punched for a couple reasons. I had a punch over the 1st metatarsal head and the punch has disappeared already. Is there anything I/the shop can do to make the punches last longer? I've been taking good care of the boots and they haven't been heated up so I'm not sure why the punch reformed. My second concern is if I would then have to remold the Intuition liner?

    Another possible reason for sore toes on the decent may be that I'm skiing in Dynafits. Never had toe pain when I was in Fritschis skiing downhill.

    Thanks for the help.

  19. #569
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    Oct 2003
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    if the boots work for touring, and just not for ice, I bet it is your heel that is not all the way back AND down in the heel pocket of the boot. I would focus on that (the problem), rather then the toes (the symptoms)

    Dynafits heel are taller then the toes, where as some freerides the toes are taller then the heel. So again you are ramped forward, and the heel might be moving.


    can you shell fit the boots for me? how much room behind the heel?


  20. #570
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockChalk View Post
    I recently acquired the rossi branded version of the rx130 lv in a 28.5 and they are killing my foot

    Coming off of a Squad s3 110 with a much roomier fit, I was swimming in them with some pretty significant heel lift.

    Anyways, i went with the lower volume boot, shell fit is not too snug but just right. My left foot is fine but my right felt like it was in a torture device. Pain was focused just below my ankle and extended almost all the way to the arch. I have pretty large arches and previous ankle injuries on this foot.

    my foot would be numb by the time i got to the top of the lift and eventually had to swap them out for my old boots. The ultimate culprit was a hotspot just below my inside right ankle. (used 2 days)



    1) BOW with the buckles tighter or looser? Worse when tighter

    2) BOW with thinner or thicker socks? there is no way they are better with thicker socks, I already use an UL and they are tight.

    3) BOW with any footbeds (custom, stock, none, etc)? haven't tried

    4) BOW skiing, standing, or feet un-weighted (hanging off a chair lift)? better when skiing- could be mental

    5) BOW thru out the day (and when does the pain start?) worse towards the end for sure, starts early afternoon

    6) BOW on the first vs the third day? Worse as days progress, I had to ditch them at 2 on the second day of use.

    7) BOW on harder or easier terrain? better on harder terrain

    8) BOW with the power straps (velcro straps) tighter or looser? Cannot tell

    9) BOW if you do any particular movements, or actions? Forward lean makes them feel better, i think. maybe worse. they fucking hurt.

    10) Any medical, health, or weight changes since you used them last? No
    Update if anyone cares...Intuitions fixed everything- I went with a Race FX and now just need to find a way to keep the snow/water out. I still have a slight heel lift issue but I think that adding a wedge will solve that.

  21. #571
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    SL,UT
    Posts
    255
    Do you guys mind giving me some new boot recommendations?

    I'm currently in a Dalbello Proton 15 with the Intuition liner that came with the boot. I mostly enjoy this boot, but I do experience some pain in one of my feet as the day goes on. These boots are about done though - jamming buckles, wearing soles, liners have been baked 3 times, etc...

    I went to my local, highly respected, boot fitter for a foot evaluation. I have a wide forefoot (102 - 104) and an incredibly high instep. The boot fitter recommended the Technica Ten.2 120 HVL and the Fischer Ranger 12 Vacuum, both of which they do not carry. I went to another shop and tried on the Technica Ten.2 120 HVL and was not entirely impressed, one pressure point over the instep and the flex seemed very soft compared to my Proton 15s (both at room temperature). I did not get a chance to try the Fischer Ranger 12, but I'm told that the whole vacuum process blows the test fit out of the water anyways.

    Do you have any other boot suggestions for a wide, high volume foot with a priority on performance?

  22. #572
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    120
    There aren't a lot of high instep boots, I have a pretty high instep and stupid wide (114mm) foot and am in atomic hawx 110 (because I'm a lightweight) but they make 120 and 130. In hind sight I would have gone with the 120.

    Anyway they are high instep and 100 last, mine have been stretched quite a bit which is hard to do because of the material around the forefoot. If these don't work for you I'd look at vacuums, mtlion or one of the other boot fitters may have better advice

  23. #573
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    Oct 2003
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    so vaccume will make a boot smaller and tighter where needed, but will not make it bigger.

    I would check out the rossi Alius 120 (think that what its called, the 104mm shape in 120 flex, green boot)
    and the technica phyniox 120 (or the new version you suggested)

    most good fitters will carry brands and models to fit most feet, so I would really look for a store/person and not a brand


  24. #574
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    SL,UT
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    255
    Quote Originally Posted by NWSkier View Post
    There aren't a lot of high instep boots, I have a pretty high instep and stupid wide (114mm) foot and am in atomic hawx 110 (because I'm a lightweight) but they make 120 and 130. In hind sight I would have gone with the 120.

    Anyway they are high instep and 100 last, mine have been stretched quite a bit which is hard to do because of the material around the forefoot. If these don't work for you I'd look at vacuums, mtlion or one of the other boot fitters may have better advice
    I appreciate any ideas/suggestions. I just need a starting place and then I'll hit the shops for test fits.

    Keep 'em coming!

  25. #575
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    SL,UT
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    255
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    so vaccume will make a boot smaller and tighter where needed, but will not make it bigger.

    I would check out the rossi Alius 120 (think that what its called, the 104mm shape in 120 flex, green boot)
    and the technica phyniox 120 (or the new version you suggested)

    most good fitters will carry brands and models to fit most feet, so I would really look for a store/person and not a brand
    I should mention that I have very limited dorsiflexion, so upright and stiff are better. My forefoot's around 102-104.

    I did try the Atomic Hawx 130, and the stiffness was great, but the fit wasn't quite there. I also tried the Rossi Alias 120, wasn't quite right. However, the Rossi AllTrack 120 was good. My other two choices for fit are the Lange SX 120 (I tried on the 100) and the Fischer Ranger 12 Vacuum. The Vacuum had a surprisingly nice fit straight out of the box. All of these we damn close, but felt just a tad soft to deal with the limited dorsiflexion. Finally, I tried on the Lange RX 120 and it felt nice for about 10 mins until my forefoot started to feel too pinched.

    Here's the question: Would the Rossi AllTrack Pro 130, Lange RS 130 Wide, or Lange RX 130 be a viable option? Keeping in mind high instep, 102-104 forefoot, and limited dorsiflexion.

    Gracias.

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