I dont have the money for zipfits. I wish tho
I have not tried the xt3 yet, are you saying that you did not have enough heel hold in that boot?
I dont have the money for zipfits. I wish tho
I have not tried the xt3 yet, are you saying that you did not have enough heel hold in that boot?
What is the best way to get some toe length for one foot in a Cochise 130 for mainly the second tie (mortons foot) but also the big toe.
Also, with intuitions, if the length of the shell is fairly tight , and also a little tight over the instep is there any benefit to sizing either up or down on the half size break? I have my old pretty clapped out ProWrap 28 liners in my newer 27.5 Cochise and looking to replace them now. I know intuition has said for the ProWrap to typically size down and too size up for other liners, but assuming the liner fits in the shell, does on or the other benefit if trying to get a little more length and instep room, or does it not make a difference either way?
I’m sizing up and putting a beefy liner in La Sportiva Skorpius for use during extreme cold and on extended trip in Colder locales like AK. Anybody used the Proflex add on thingy from Pulse Labs? https://shop.pulsebootlab.com/en-us/.../pulse-proflex
I wonder if I can grind down the raised plastic around the cable buckle on the Skorpius and throw that thing in there. I’m pretty happy with the Skorpius and it’s probably more just early season faffing, but this boot will be for hard skiing with a big pack. Might be worth it if it works.
Thoughts?
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Gravity always wins...
that Pulse thing should work.
Call the Reve store, and ask for Bryn or Matt. Odds are they will have an answer
Looking for any info regarding the Fischer Vac machines. I'll premise it by saying that I was working as a bootfitter when they first introduced it. As hokey as it was, in the correct hands, you could make it do some pretty neat things - I was able to fit my own boots with it and still stands as one of the best boots I've ever had.
That being said, I can't find anywhere in Montana that still has the machine. If anyone knows of one, I'd love to know where. Alternatively, I've been entertaining the thought of using my own jimmy-rigged version. I think with a bike pump or air compressor, and the correct bags or intertubes, you could probably achieve something similar. Curious if anyone else has messed around with their own versions.
Last thing I would say, is that I have a semblance of understand as it concerns fitting boots. I understand that with a good boot fitter, you may not need to use something as extravagant as the Fischer Vac to account for spots that need punching. My intention isn't expansion of the boot in all respects though, it's compression in certain areas, especially around the ankle. I know you can pad, and in my case, use extra cork in my zipfits, but most boot fitters also understand that the way the shell fits your foot will always give more performance than adding extra padding & material to your boots. In a more specific sense, what I got out of heat molding and compressing my boots onto my feet previously, was a certain amount of natural canting in the cuff - specific to some variation of have between both my tibias, as well as a much tighter heel pocket and ankle retention.
I'm NOT much help at all for the parts/tools, but this facebook page might be?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2351551268450761
We used to vacuum bag kayak decks and hulls for layup. I bet you could rig something up with a good vacuum pump and heavy duty material. Add some method of heat and you are there.
watch out for snakes
Lange xt3 LV has a pretty roomy ankle, instep, heel combo that generally doesn’t give great hold for the majority of people, let alone outliers.
The atomic Hawx had the most aggressive heel cup of the bunch but is terrible for heel spurs. Grind your boot board, thin your foot bed, drop that heel down. Also, make you Hawx stiffer. They aren’t the stiffest and when you over flex them, they bite like an SOB. I’ve punched mine on the heel, you just have to punch the other side of the heel as well to straighten out the walk mode so it works. Not ideal.
A 28cm foot won’t ever be comfortable in a 26.5 shell, especially for touring. Also, when measuring your foot with most devices, the heel spur won’t change your measurement. So what are you actually measuring to?
Tecnica zero G has a very narrow heel but not a lot of cup to it. Much tighter around the ankle than the Lange though. Easier to punch the heel as the walk mode isn’t as low as the Hawx. Not substantial enough for the average person using it inbounds.
My advice, quit doing dumb downsizes and get a Zipfit. You sound like you’ve been unhappy with your boots for a while so just spend the money to fix it. You’re talking about buying new shells anyways. Those cost more than zips. Go into work one extra day and you get a free Zipfit. Then work on the boot.
I have a an intuition pro wrap in my hawx, have considered getting a booster strap as well. I out flex them a lot especially through moguls.
I measure out to a 28, give or take 2 or 3 mm.
What about the technica cochise? Is it a similar fit to a zero g? Reason I ask is I want something burlier than the sub 1500g touring boots, I just find they have no life to them. But the only options in that regard seems to be technica, lange, dalbello and fulltilt, which are all 99 to 102 last (except lange) not that last is directly correlated to the heel pocket size/shape but those numbers alone are not promising.
I was planning on buying a pair of boots used and experimenting on them, it would still cost half what a zipfit would cost. Plus I could learn how to fit boots myself and not have to be dropping hundreds on a boot fitter.
A booster will not help stiffen your Hawx. It will do the opposite. If the Hawx is feeling that soft to you, it’s probably worth going a different boot.
Why not keep the Hawx and get a resort only boot? Crossover boots are softer and there are less options for fit and the walk mech restricts fitting.
A new Cochise is bigger than a zero g. The ankle is fairly roomy. But it could be an option with mods.
A used boot will be softer and lack performance. If you go that route make sure it’s barely used.
Honestly, you seem like you are buying many cheaper products trying to hack your way into a success but in the end are going to spend a lot. Bootfitting is often free when you buy a boot and most always if you have a custom footbed in it. Zipfits work better than most liners out there and will help your heel for a number of reasons. And you can put them in your next shell, unlike foam injected.
FWIW, it’s not always cost prohibitive to have fitting done on a boot that wasn’t purchased at the store. My fitter charges $30 for an initial assessment of your fit in the boot and then $20/punch or grind.
Just bought past season new boots. I want to bake liners & i would like to get punches for width. Ques for new boot fitting sequence:
- Is it best to get punches first then wear with unbaked liner for a few days?
- Wear boots without punches or baking to both start breaking in liner & to assess pressure points more precisely?
- Just go deal with all at once?
- Other?
Expected punches for width at 6th toe & metatarsus
Punch where the barefoot touches the shell without a liner in the shell. aim for 1mm or two. Immediately mold liner. Ski and assess fit.
Not sure if it matters but bootfitting not proximate to hill…
Still same advice? Small changes & ski each adjustment?
If you have a couple of mm gap around your foot, have a footbed stabilizing your foot, and have the liner molded and it feels like there are no alarming issues, the rest will most likely break in. You don’t want your boots to be too loose but I hear ya. Just take your time at the shop. Tell them to help someone else and hangout in your boots for a bit.
Appreciate the input, thx!
[we are also waiting on the weather to let the hill open, lol…!]
New zipfit owner here. Gara LV. The neoprene toe box leaves the forefoot pretty sloppy. Any advice on how to pad out the top of the liner to take up volume? Drew at ZF said this was a common complaint they were looking to solve.
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fire
rails are for trains
If I had a dollar for every time capitalism was blamed for problems caused by the government I'd be a rich fat film maker in a baseball hat.
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Definitely the most awkward part, especially if your boots are roomy. I have zeroGs and don’t like the rockered bootboard so it was a no brainer to do forefoot shims on the boot board.
I’d try cutting the front of a wool sock off and either putting it inside your sock or on the liner.
Question for those still fitting. Is there a “new school” thing where shell fitting isn’t a thing? Was told that it’s not necessary these days by a shop manager (see boot work in slc thread for whole story)
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"If we can't bring the mountain to the party, let's bring the PARTY to the MOUNTAIN!"
If you are actually skiing in the boots, as opposed to standing around and posing or drinking, shell fit is as important as ever. If you have average to slightly wider feet, the selection of lasts is better than ever and the options for modifying the fit are unprecedented (unless you're a lazy shop manager or a boot salesman with marginal skills).
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