are my 916 gone for?

**quebecfreestyler** · 02-19-2008, 09:43 AM

Hi, the toe piece on my atomic 916 (s916 made by salomon for atomic) lost a little piece of plastic right under teh left wing. Since I didnt pay for the binding, there is no way to get them replaced by atomic as warranty. So I asked if they could repair them and I learned that since tehy were never sold to the public, they didnt have any piece for them. Logic would say contact salomon ad they can get it done, so I asked my shop guyz and they called salomon who said they wouldnt fix it since it's an atomic binding not a salomon one.

So the question is, anyone know how to fix the binding since apparently both salomon and atomic dont want to do it?.

anyway my camera died so I pointed the piece that is missing on my binding on a salomont sth 16 picture i found.
any hep would be appreciated (ps i live in canada land)

**skiwithcharlie** · 02-19-2008, 10:03 AM

Ca se répare facilement ca man....Achète de l'epoxy (je recommande la JB-Weld, cest de loin la meilleure) et met la dessus ton AFD peter. Tu peux mouler cette epoxy pour que ca ressemble a des AFD neufs & ca sera encore plus tough que le plastic qui était la avant, ca colle tres bien en plus. Jai fait la même chose avec une de mes paires de 916 tout en metal et ca tough depuis 2 ans....

**02sedona** · 02-19-2008, 10:19 AM

Fill the area with epoxy. Use tape tho give the area some shape/form. Then grind any extra away to mimick the original plastic afd.

**Conundrum** · 02-19-2008, 10:28 AM

Or find someone with that little part. It's riveted on the 916s though so it's hard to replace properly. JB weld and sanding is the easiest way. If you don't want to do it, I'll buy them from you for cheap.

**Arty50** · 02-19-2008, 11:37 AM

One of my shop techs fixed this for me. You just have to cut the piece from an old 997 style binding and then epoxy it in there. I've had it happen to another pair also. From now on I'm going to epoxy that piece in there before I ever set foot in a new pair of 916s. It's so stupid that they put such a chincy piece of plastic on an otherwise bomber set of bindings. With the epoxy in there, they'll never break off.

**quebecfreestyler** · 02-19-2008, 12:01 PM

K seems like I might have to run around town trying to find some boat shop or something that carry jb weld.

**azpex** · 02-19-2008, 01:43 PM

Originally Posted by quebecfreestyler

K seems like I might have to run around town trying to find some boat shop or something that carry jb weld.

I have that stuff here, just give me a call when you want to do it.

**StroupSkier** · 02-19-2008, 08:01 PM

I have 2 916s with this issue and both ski fine without replacing the plastic.

Z · 02-19-2008, 11:29 PM

Originally Posted by StroupSkier

I have 2 916s with this issue and both ski fine without replacing the plastic.

Yeah, they ski fine without em. Best cure however is JB stickweld. roll it up, stick it in, file it flush....

**quebecfreestyler** · 03-02-2008, 06:35 PM

I used the jb weld, readjusted everything and it aseems there is still some loose in there and I can fell the ski moving around when jumping around, any idea about what I could do???

gthere is some up and down movement even tho I adjusted the height on the toe piece, anyone seen something like that?

I might want to try finding another black toe piece (or red it dosnt matter) cause I dont feel safe hitting jumps with these bindings anymore.

**ZomblibulaX** · 03-02-2008, 06:44 PM

I will take them off of your hands. I happen to have a Salomon binding recycling center on my skis.

**quebecfreestyler** · 03-02-2008, 07:06 PM

you have any other workingtoe piece you could trade??
I,m sure they can be fixed the only problem is how noone know much about 916 in town.

**ZomblibulaX** · 03-02-2008, 07:14 PM

I got three pair of Salomon green springs with the same problem, and all I can say is... its not a problem. JB weld works great, but I stomp around on mine no problemo. They hold in fine, and if it does effect the release values, I haven't noticed. Crank down your toe height a little extra and go huck meat.

**quebecfreestyler** · 03-03-2008, 10:08 AM

Originally Posted by ZomblibulaX

I got three pair of Salomon green springs with the same problem, and all I can say is... its not a problem. JB weld works great, but I stomp around on mine no problemo. They hold in fine, and if it does effect the release values, I haven't noticed. Crank down your toe height a little extra and go huck meat.

that's what I did, was working well for a couple laps trought the park and then started to be loose again and I had to switch to my bigger sticks.

heelpiece seems a bit loose so I'll switch it with a spare one I got and see what happen.

**wildstyle** · 03-03-2008, 10:54 AM

all salomon / atomic bindings are marked for year of manufacture so having a receipt should not invalidate your ability to get a pair of binders warrantied.

on the bottom of the binders, you will see a small circle in various areas with a number in the middle. This directly relates to the year of manufacture.

As such, as long as they are with a 3 or better, then salomon/atomic are duty bound to investigate and warranty the binders.

As they have only been made for the last 12 months, they have to be within the 5 year warranty.

take them to any atomic dealer or send them to atomic usa directly and ask them to be warrantied.

**squirrelmurphy** · 03-03-2008, 11:00 AM

are they adjusted properly? forward pressure, toe height, toe wings?

**quebecfreestyler** · 03-03-2008, 03:00 PM

Originally Posted by squirrelmurphy

are they adjusted properly? forward pressure, toe height, toe wings?

yes yes and yes

I cant send them into warranty since I got them for free as I was sponsored by them.
On another note, there is a lot of loose on the heel piece, it can move a couple mm on the track, form left to right and up and down. nothing foward-backward tho.

**njfreeskier** · 04-12-2009, 10:15 AM

this just happened to my 16 din 900s. Anyone have any advice on how to remove this piece from another binding. It seems that cutting it is the best/preferred way. Don't want to jack up this piece though while removing it. Any tips/techniques? Thanks.