I suck at chainsawing

**Baconzoo** · 04-30-2004, 10:47 AM

Of all the things to suck at...
the chainsaw
is one thing you don't want to suck at.

After I get tired (40min) I fear for my own safety. I'm committed to the cut but I feel like it could kickback for some odd reason. Whats the worst thing that happens?
Your bar gets stuck?
Do they kick back?
Am I just paraniod?

**Shredhead** · 04-30-2004, 11:05 AM

Originally posted by Baconzoo
[B]Whats the worst thing that happens?
/B]

My dad was a surgeon. He cut off two of his fingers with one, good thing he was about to retire anyhow. I use them all the time, a great tool if your careful.

**Baconzoo** · 04-30-2004, 12:03 PM

Originally posted by Shredhead
My dad was a surgeon. He cut off two of his fingers with one, good thing he was about to retire anyhow. I use them all the time, a great tool if your careful.

Dude, how?

I have common sense, but some pointers would help.
i.e
1) Never make a cut higher than your shoulders? (branches)
2) Never chainsaw naked
3) Wear steeltoed boots
4) Never cut with the upper side of the saw blade?
ect.

Advice on how to rock the blade?

**White Chocolate** · 04-30-2004, 12:31 PM

Originally posted by Baconzoo
Dude, how?

I have common sense, but some pointers would help.
i.e
1) Never make a cut higher than your shoulders? (branches)
2) Never chainsaw naked
3) Wear steeltoed boots
4) Never cut with the upper side of the saw blade?
ect.

Advice on how to rock the blade?

definately rock the kevlar chainsawing chaps, with nothing underneath if you are a stallion. then it's off to the blue oyster bar

**Baconzoo** · 04-30-2004, 12:35 PM

Originally posted by White Chocolate
definately rock the kevlar chainsawing chaps, with nothing underneath if you are a stallion. then it's off to the blue oyster bar

I'll leave my "Certified Homofobe" card in my wallet for now.

I'm really do need to get "Chainsaw" schooled. Please advise...

**Grange** · 04-30-2004, 12:37 PM

When cutting a standing tree make the wedge in the direction you want the tree to fall. On the other side cut straight accross not downward.

Although some people teach it I say never stick the tip of your saw into the tree. Your just begging for a kickback.

Never cut trees with a boss who has never used a chainsaw in his life and drops a large birch right next to you. When that happened to me I almost cut him in half.

edit: verb

**char** · 04-30-2004, 12:39 PM

Originally posted by Baconzoo
Of all the things to suck at...
the chainsaw
is one thing you don't want to suck at.

After I get tired (40min) I fear for my own safety. I'm committed to the cut but I feel like it could kickback for some odd reason. Whats the worst thing that happens?
Your bar gets stuck?
Do they kick back?
Am I just paraniod?

If you touch the tip to something as you are making the cut you are risking kickback. Make sure that the other side of the cut is clear of obstacles. What are you cutting? Trees or just down logs?

Worst thing that happens? You get kickback and it comes right back into your head at full speed. Get a saw with a quickstop chain brake, wear protective chaps (to boot top at least) and leather boots, and if you are tired just stop cutting.

Oh, and take a class from your local dealer.

Oh yeah, get a Stihle MS 880 and a 47 inch bar.

**Beaver** · 04-30-2004, 05:09 PM

Prior to starting your saw, smoke a fatty.

Keep the tip away from shit. If you are using the tip to cut hang on tight. You can also get chains that have a sloped raker that kick back less. A good idea for a beginner. When bucking a log do not stand squarely behind your bar stand with the saw to one side of you. If it kicks uncontrollably it will only hit air and not your forehead. Did I mention hang on tight when the chain is spinning. Wear falling pants. If you are falling get someone who knows how to show you what to do. If you cannot find that person get a book on falling. Not as good as an actual person but it will teach you how to avoid betting your saw stuck. Keep your saw sharp. When bucking just let the weight of the saw push the bar through the wood; do not push on the saw when bucking it can cause you to cut an arc. When falling look at the tree and decide ifit is leaning, if possible fall it that way, if not you can wedge a leaner a long way over the other direction. If you loose/forget your wedges you can use your back cut to prevent a bind but it will not be worth a shit to wedge the tree over. When bucking, if the ends of the log are suspended cut with the top of the bar from below the log. Be aware that the log will eventually fall and prepare to get your feet/saw out of the way. When bucking do it from the uphill side so that if the round bucked off starts to roll it does not knock you and your running saw over. If you get tires stop for water, smoke a fatty, have more water then proceed. Look at your shavings, If they are big your saw is sharp, if they are small or powdery your saw is dull, stop & sharpen it. If you donot know how learn.

**ak_powder_monkey** · 04-30-2004, 06:25 PM

Well I can use a chain saw

**H-man** · 04-30-2004, 07:24 PM

Bacon, I like to make sure that I have good footing/balance. Don't reach or stretch. Make sure you are not standing in braches that could get you tangled up or on pieces that will roll out from under you. If you go down it could get ugly.

OK boys and girls, bring on the "go down" jokes...

**powderhound** · 04-30-2004, 07:38 PM

how many cc's you running, some of the smaller saws will just puke out before they kickback, don't let your bar get pinched in the log(prop log up to take pressure off and cut, reprop). do not hit the dirt, other than dangerous, it dulls your blade very fast, which you should sharpen once in a while. let the saw do the work.

**Lone Star** · 05-01-2004, 06:41 PM

...what are you trying to cut that takes forty minutes?

It never hurts to have a couple of wedges handy. If your bar gets stuck while bucking, just slam a wedge or two into your cut and you'll probably be good to go.

Use your dogs to help you cut... using your tip not only causes kickback but also gets less productivity out of the saw... use leverage to your advantage.

**train07** · 05-01-2004, 09:15 PM

Shiiiit, make your dogs do ALL the cutting.

**Baconzoo** · 05-02-2004, 07:24 AM

Originally posted by train07
Shiiiit, make your dogs do ALL the cutting.

That make the most sense!

Thank you all for the advice. I built a house this winter (Started in OCT 03) and my lot is full of downed trees. Live and Learn is not the way to get into being a "Beaver" so I had to ask you Pros.

I feel much better about my new skill set.

**Arnold Babar** · 05-05-2004, 07:50 PM

Just because you are paranoid does not mean that your chainsaw is not out to get you. Use a sharp blade. Keep out of reach of children. Never turn your back, you can't trust those fucking chainsaws.

**schussfahrt** · 05-05-2004, 08:33 PM

I do a fair amount of chainsawing; check out Madsen's site. Full of usefull tips, general info, supplies, and safety do's & dont's. If you're going to mess around with a sharp chain flying around at 50+ mph it pays to read up a bit and know what to look out for. Madsen's

You 'aint seen nothin' till you've been to the Buckley Log show. Damn I miss my Crystal Mt. days..........

Buckley

**snow_slider** · 05-18-2004, 07:37 AM

When cutting a standing tree make the wedge in the direction you want the tree to fall. On the other side cut straight accross not downward.

I like to make my backside cut at a downward angle. This provides a "shoulder" for the trunk that helps prevent the tree from dropping the wrong way.

Is there some reason I should cut straight across and not downward?

**Mulletizer** · 05-18-2004, 08:03 AM

IME Everything involving chainsaws is ten times easier when the blade is really sharp. Although I don't have the first idea how to sharpen the blade myself...

**sanjuanworm** · 05-29-2004, 05:59 PM

sharp chain is very important, less strain on the motor
a set of circular files for $15, 20 minutes and you have a sharp cutting device.
hardwoods will dull a chain alot faster than softwoods(pine)

chaps, eye, ear protection a must, gotta have some gloves too.
a hard hat is nice to have in some cases as well.

nothing wrong with an angled cut toward the notch.

be safe.....

the #1 reason people get hurt running a saw is fatigue.
if your saw is wearing you out, try a smaller saw or just take a break.

**interloper** · 05-30-2004, 08:35 AM

There just someting about running a saw and felling big timber. A lot of good advice from some true outdoorsmen.(winky) Protective clothing,a sharp chain and don't get in a hurry when your bumping knots. Earth first will log the rest of the planets later.

**FLEX** · 05-30-2004, 10:10 AM

Confidence and comfort with a chainsaw only comes with experience. My advice would be..... don't be afraid of the saw....and like people ^^ said ,keep it sharp.
I use a dremel , fast and effective.I like chainsaws.
Here's a couple pic's of one of my saws...I've slabbed som pretty big logs with this and an alaska mill