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Thread: How close together can you drill binding holes?

  1. #51
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    well you are American therefore I will offer thots and prayers which is good as anything for an app that may or may not work

    I think it all depends on how low you think you can go, hell somebody on tech tips mounted a toe piece with 2 sided carpet tape for a season

    This thread is old enough that I hadn't discovered using the Bamboo BBQ skewers to fill screw holes, available in most supermarkets
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  2. #52
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    They're virtually impossible to find, but I started using aluminum #12AB screws epoxied into screw holes in situations where there's overlap and it's a high-stress screw location (like the front screws on toes). Epoxy in, hacksaw off, grind flush with topsheets. Basically you end up with threaded metal plugs that sure as hell won't be pulling out.

    Drill new holes and be sure to tap, so your new binding screws mesh with the aluminum plugs.
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  3. #53
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    Another vote for epoxy/pound in tapered hard wood plugs. Shave down flush. Hell you can even countersink them alittle and level top sheet with epoxy for water proofing and then overlap all day long. I have observed better bite than original core in this scenario.

  4. #54
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    Have used golf tees in the past but they need sanding thinner which is a pain.
    Found these today. 4mm thick which should be perfect in a binding hole. I assume its a fairly soft wood but could be better than bamboo. Figured for 2.99 I'd give them a try next time I'm plugging holes.
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  5. #55
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    Good info in this thread.

  6. #56
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    https://www.tognar.com/binding-hole-plugs-wood/

    Get these. super easy. super hard and pretty cheap. It will compress the core around them when tapped in and make for a bomber mount

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    They're virtually impossible to find, but I started using aluminum #12AB screws epoxied into screw holes in situations where there's overlap and it's a high-stress screw location (like the front screws on toes). Epoxy in, hacksaw off, grind flush with topsheets. Basically you end up with threaded metal plugs that sure as hell won't be pulling out.

    Drill new holes and be sure to tap, so your new binding screws mesh with the aluminum plugs.
    Nice!

    Sent from my SM-T713 using TGR Forums mobile app

  8. #58
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    So, to sum things up.. How close together can you drill binding holes? Depends on how solidly you plug the old holes and how good your jig and drilling skills are.
    Go that way really REALLY fast. If something gets in your way, TURN!

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by SumJongGuy View Post
    Depends on how solidly you plug the old holes and how good your jig and drilling skills are.
    That's what she said...
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    the situation strikes me as WAY too much drama at this point

  10. #60
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    best practises is 1 cm or 1/2 inch but then somebody always posts something they did that wasn't best practises and it worked altho we don't really hear about things that don't work

    so what we really need is a thread titled "fucked things I done on my ski mount "
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  11. #61
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    Years ago I bought some Praxis freerides of of someone here. I mounted them way back from the recommended line and had an overlap on two of the four screws. Can’t remember if they were in the heels or toes. I used BF inserts on those 4 screws and they worked fine. There was the tiniest portion of the original holes which fell outside of the inserts diameter

  12. #62
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    wow that ^^ there is a Gem, the depth of technical info is a game changer, I feel like I should pay pal you my first born male child
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  13. #63
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    Is there anything really technical going on here? I read about 10mm, or 7mm of hole separation being ideal. I read about using bamboo squewers as plugs. Bs about chopped fg strands helping. Please. The only really good tip so far is using aluminum screws and then using a tap to cut that screw. . I used a short, stiff machine bit in a drill press to slightly overlap a hole for an insert and you come up with that response? My point was that the greater area of the insert probably gave comparable or greater pull out strength than the original mount despite the ever so slight overlap

  14. #64
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    probably, I can't remember, could you repeat the question ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  15. #65
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    😀. No

  16. #66
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    So : these metal inserts are going to be bomber right ? ;-)

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  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottish_Skier View Post
    So : these metal inserts are going to be bomber right ? ;-)

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    If you'd have done the remount a few mm further forward then the brass insert could have emcompassed the plugged hole.

    I'd never trust one of those knock-in inserts, especially in a light Movement core and when it's cutting in to a plastic plug.

  18. #68
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    ^^ pound in insert? Think I may trust a heli-coil more... and a drilled, tapped amd screwed in insert even more than that. Although thats an opinion based purely on speculation with no real data.

    Appears to be slightly in, but bumping a .5cm forward may have helped with placement there, especially in a ski with no metal?

  19. #69
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    Seems like it would be just a whole lot easier to use the same binding and boot size as the previous owner. Boots too big? 2 pairs of socks. Boots too small and hurt? Suck it up buttercup!
    Go that way really REALLY fast. If something gets in your way, TURN!

  20. #70
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    ^ yip : above photo is certainly far from ideal.
    however given it is front screws and on heel (rather than toe) think I am happy to take a punt on them...
    agree that with benefit of hindsight that encompassing front hole would have been good option.

  21. #71
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    How close together measured from hole center to hole center can inserts be installed?

    necro bump... but seemed appropriate instead of starting a new thread. I don't think this specific question was answered.
    No matter where you go, there you are. - BB

  22. #72
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    7 mm

    Black Diamond tested this. Their results show up in a Google search.

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    I’ve used 7 mm with no issue.

  23. #73
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    That test didn’t include plugging/epoxying the abandoned holes. I have never had an issue with pullout even when the new hole touches a properly plugged abandoned hole.


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  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIsAugustWest View Post
    That test didn’t include plugging/epoxying the abandoned holes. I have never had an issue with pullout even when the new hole touches a properly plugged abandoned hole.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Same. G Flex epoxy and hard wood plugs for the win. I’m still skiing on some Swiss cheesed skis with hole over lap to be right on the recommended line, no issues.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  25. #75
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    Dude, I've drilled holes sooo close together that it looked like there was only one hole!

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