IS THE RISK ACCEPTABLE?
Only you can decide what risk is acceptable. However, humans are awful at estimating risks and making risk part of the decision making process. I'm not going to tell you how to make decisions in this thread, but I am going to arm you with some tools to think about risk assessment that can help a great deal. Then you can more accurately decide if a risk is acceptable.
When your local avalanche center tells you the avalanche danger is forecasted at CONSIDERABLE, what do they mean and how do you use that to figure out risk? One can make a discussion of risk very complex with algorithms and rule based systems. There are mathematical risk reduction systems like Nivotest, Munter 3x3, and Avulatorthat come on plastic cards you can consult in the backcountry. There are even applications like AvaRisk for your smart phone to do the math for you.
I'll try to keep it simple. For starters, we are going to deal with words like HIGH and LOW, not numbers. We will discuss generalities, not snow pit results. This is simply a thinking methodology you can apply to any risk, not an avalanche safety algorithm. I'll supply a framework, then an example, and then add complexity. Remember, the examples are simplified, non-comprehensive, and imperfect.
What is RISK?
RISK = "What is the chance of an undesirable result?"
RISK = HAZARD x CONSEQUENCE
RISK = (Chance that an event will occur) vs. (What happens if the event occurs)
Obviously, risk evaluation can be done for many things from gear failure to lightning strikes. In terms of snow safety, you need to know several things to determine risk. Start with: how likely are what size avalanches? Your local avalanche center forecast gives you a generalized idea of the HAZARD!
How do you determine risk using the forecast? You fine tune the hazard forecast with your observations and experience, as it applies to your line. Then, you consider the consequences. Weigh the consequences against the hazard and you get risk! Let's try 4 examples!
Example #1: Deep in the Winter Backcountry!
Your target line is a steep rocky 1000m line 6 miles into the wilderness on a snowy February day in Colorado
CONSIDERABLE is the forecast. You found this to be the case where you are skiing: you consider the
stability to be fair, considerable chances of encountering a trigger point, and that if you do it will likely
be a sizeable slab avalanche.
RISK = (Chances I start a slab avalanche) vs. (Chances I am caught and injured/killed in the slide)
RISK = CONSIDERABLE hazard vs EXTREME consequence
RISK = HIGH
If you want to get slightly more complex...
RISK = HAZARD x VULNERABILITY x EXPOSURE
RISK = (Chance that event will occur) vs. (Likelihood of experiencing consequences if the event occurs) vs
(Consequences)
Example #2: Spring Steeps
It's spring and the snowpack is isothermal. It froze very solid and then snowed 10cm with no wind. You
are looking at a N line that is in the low 40deg for steepness at the top, quickly flattening out.
RISK = (Chance line sloughs) vs. (Chance slough will knock me down) vs (I lose a ski)
RISK = CONSIDERABLE hazard vs LOW vulnerability vs MODERATE exposure
RISK = LOW to MODERATE
If you want to get slightly more complex...
RISK = HAZARD x VULNERABILITY x EXPOSURE x UNCERTAINTY
RISK = (Chance that an event will occur) vs. (Likelihood of experiencing consequences if the event
occurs) vs (Consequences) vs (Uncertainty in estimations)
Example #3: EXTREME SKIING
It's spring and you saw a R5 (the entire slope) slide yesterday. It froze very solid and then snowed
10cm with no wind. You are an extremely skilled skier looking at a technical line in the mid 50s degs for
steepness. There is a 500ft cliff at the bottom of the line.
RISK = (Chance this line sloughs) vs. (Chance the slough will carry me) vs. (Slough carries me off the cliff
and I die) vs. (Uncertainty)
RISK = EXTREME hazard vs LOW vulnerability vs EXTREME exposure vs LOW uncertainty
RISK = MODERATE
Here is an example of an almost certain event that has the potential for extreme consequences.
However, a skilled skier should almost certainly be able to ski the line in a way that almost completely
eliminates vulnerability to slough. This is a great example of HOW a line is skied can change the risk immensely. A much larger risk is the skier making an error and falling down the
line and off the cliff. Another discussion for another thread: Are we more willing to accept risks where
the consequences arise from a failure in our skiing abilities vs our snow safety assessment skills?
Examples #4: Velociraptor Hazard - Excessive Conservatism
We should avoid allowing catastrophic possibilities of negligible likelihood from unduly distracting us in our decision making.
RISK = (Chance Velociraptors will hunt you) vs. (Chance Velociraptor catches you) vs. (Velociraptors eat
you alive) vs. (Uncertainty)
RISK = NEGLIGIBLE hazard vs EXTREME vulnerability vs EXTREME exposure vs NEGLIGIBLE uncertainty
RISK = NEGLIGIBLE
Last Thoughts
The above methods for thinking about risk can help us get a more accurate handle on our internal judgments. This is all fuzzy logic, not hard numbers. I personally am not a fan of rule based decision making because it puts too much faith in system and leaves out critical detail. At the same time, it is key to avoid overloading yourself when evaluating risk. Humans tend to either take shortcuts or get ANALYSIS PARALYSIS!
None of the above examples are complete or exhaustive. These are just thought exercises meant to somewhat improve inherently imprecise human risk estimation. There are many more twists. For example:
What if you introduce high uncertainty because the forecast doesn't match your observations?
What is an acceptable risk for you? How do you balance it to reward?
Do you prepare to deal with consequences?
I hope this thread was helpful! Please discuss!
And always remember, never get involved in a land war in Asia:
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