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Shane Dorian and Albee Layer Conquer Barbaric Wave,“Blood Eagle”

What type of wave is so heavy that Shane Dorian and Albee Layer would name it "Blood Eagle"? The pair set out on the Scottish coast, searching the cold, gray waters of the North Atlantic for a ridable wave. What they found was a heavy slab wave off of an unnamed cliff. Inspired by a story from Albee, they decided an appropriate name would be "Blood Eagle", after a ceremonial offering.

The wave lived up to the story, as it dangerously broke on a rocky shelf. A session went off, with Albee and Shane pushing themselves and each other, capturing something truly special.

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Amaazing ...  Inspired by a story from Albee, they decided an appropriate name would be “Blood Eagle”, after a ceremonial offering. http://www.fordphumy.org/

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Bruce Irons Speaks To The Dark Side of Andy’s Partying
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Bruce Irons Speaks To The Dark Side of Andy’s Partying

Bruce Irons Speaks To The Dark Side of Andy’s Partying

While Andy Irons’ bipolar disorder may have gone unnoticed by many for years, his notoriously loud partying habits certainly didn’t. Andy’s brother Bruce recalls a few instances when living it up chasing a good time turned into trouble, like rolling a car into the ocean and leaving it there. The struggles of dealing with his brother weighed heavy on Bruce, especially while Andy was off touring and living the life of a pro surfer. When Andy would come home, his habits tended to take him off

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Video: These Sharks Hanging With Surfers Is Scary Cool
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Video: These Sharks Hanging With Surfers Is Scary Cool

Video: These Sharks Hanging With Surfers Is Scary Cool

Last week, SURFER published Brad Mommsen’s aerial video of sharks swimming beneath a group of surfers in Durban, South Africa – seemingly unbeknownst to the riders, among whom was Jordy Smith.  "As I changed my drone’s camera angle to face directly below it, the glare from the reflection of the sun went away and I got to see right through the water. The first shark sighting was like 'whoa’ and then I saw there were actually five different sharks all swimming around together. That was pretty

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Joel Parkinson Explains How Opioids Changed Andy Irons
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Joel Parkinson Explains How Opioids Changed Andy Irons

Joel Parkinson Explains How Opioids Changed Andy Irons

Outside of his bipolar disorder, Andy Irons faced the ever-deepening struggle of a severe opioid addiction. While many of his family and friends were aware of his mental disorder, his drug habit often went overlooked. Only his closest friends, with whom he spent time together surfing on tour and partying thereafter, recognized his opioid addiction. To both him and his friends, the dangers were not always apparent, as the perils of these types of drugs have only recently become commonly known.