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Dusty Payne Is Back After Hawaii Waves Nearly Ate Him Alive

After suffering numerous injuries that included fracturing his jaw in two places, breaking a temporal bone in his skull, and caving an eye socket during the Pipeline competition on January 8th, 2018, Dusty Payne is already back surfing the Maui waves he grew up riding.

RELATED: Andy Irons "Kissed By God"

“At the end of the day, Mother Nature controls everything,” Payne said in an interview for the film. “I’ve just always tried to keep pushing on and getting back to what I want to do, which is being in the water.”

The film "Relentless" features interviews from before this year’s Pipeline comp, as well as an interview after his accident where he speaks humbly about the experience and where he is today.

Best yet, the film shows the evolution of a young, tanned, Maui towhead who loved the water into a well-renowned and respected surfer, returning from a life-threatening injury.

These days, Payne is back in the water and couldn’t be happier about it.

“I just hope I’m able to inspire other people to not give up on their goals because of a setback,” Payne said.

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A Great White Nibble Leaves Surfer with 50-Stitches and a Story
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A Great White Nibble Leaves Surfer with 50-Stitches and a Story

A Great White Nibble Leaves Surfer with 50-Stitches and a Story

2018 was a sharky year and 2019 is shaping up to be no different. At around 10 a.m. on Tuesday morning, 19-year-old Nick Wapner was surfing Sandspit Beach along California’s central coast when he felt a strong pressure around his legs. He looked back as his board was being driven out of the water to see the mouth of a great white shark closing around his ankles. He later said the head of the estimated 15-foot long shark was around three to four feet with massive jaws and beady black eyes.

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Jan. 9th, 2019: Huge Swell Hits L.A. County
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Jan. 9th, 2019: Huge Swell Hits L.A. County

Jan. 9th, 2019: Huge Swell Hits L.A. County

Last Wednesday, Jan. 9th, 2019, a massive swell hit Southern California.  The region's top surfers were ready to take full advantage, as evidenced in the above video.  Surfers including Matt Mohagen, Nic Lamb, Tito Bourget and Patrick Miller were out in force to ride the large and uncommonly well-formed barrels which rolled in.   The all-time swell was due to a low-pressure system off the coast of Southern California.  magicseaweed.com graphic.   Related: A Great White Nibble Leaves

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“Sessions: A Left” Is a Beautiful Short of Surfing Across The Pond
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“Sessions: A Left” Is a Beautiful Short of Surfing Across The Pond

“Sessions: A Left” Is a Beautiful Short of Surfing Across The Pond

People love Ireland because you can hide your alcoholism under the guise of travel and heritage. But now a new breed of tourists are flocking to the land of Guinness and Whisky, a salty band of travelers who prey on western winds and mid-winter swells, and pounce on cheap off-season airfare. If I had a dollar for every person who told me about their surf trip to Ireland I’d have three dollars and still be flat broke. Really though, it does seem like Ireland is the place to go and surf if you