It’s not everyday that a big wave competition gets called off due to big waves (i.e. there was a moral dilemma to keep it running because death was on the table), yet that’s exactly what happened Monday afternoon at Jaws after a few competitors headed back to the boats with injuries. The eventual champion Billy Kemper got knocked out while trying to bust through a 25-foot backdoor barrel.
“I don’t really remember much. I just remember it went really black and fuzzy,” Billy told Stab Magazine. “I think I blacked out for a second. Sean Lopez said he came to grab me and hit me in the head with the ski. I guess I was just laying there, then he came back and grabbed me by my jersey. I came-to on the sled.” Getting knocked out in the water is already terrifying, but having it happen during a giant Jaws session is a straight nightmare. Grant “Twiggy” Baker also sustained some injuries after he got sucked up the back of a heaving tube before disappearing into the cavern.
But just because the contest was postponed, that didn't stop the surfers from staying in the lineup and attacking some Pe’ahi monsters. Due to the building swell and shifting trade winds, most of the surfers reverted to the sleds and turned the day into a tow session. Kai Lenny got what is already being talked about as the Ride of the Year when he airdropped 20 feet coming off a cutback on the lip and then stomped the landing. It was pure insanity. The spectator in me wishes the contest kept going because that would have been an all-time competition ride, but it’s pretty clear commissioner Mike Parsons made the right choice after we learned of some of the injures. Plus we got an extra day of surfing out of it. Watch some of these clips from the comp.
"We are filing a police report now that we have more footage from another vantage point.” @blackgirlssurf An incident occurred in the surf on Wednesday at Venice Beach. A female surfer, Danielle Lyons, who is a member of the all girls surf club “Black Girls Surf” had her leash yanked by surf instructor Wagner Lima, owner of the Brazilian Surf Club. In the video posted by the Black Girls Surf Club Facebook page, it appears Wager dropped in late and then decided to yank the chain on Lyon’s
A nude film is a bold statement, but a nude surfing film? That’s even more audacious and exactly what professional surfer Felicity Palmateer has in the works to release this December. The film entitled has been a project of hers for the past three years and was shot in Fiji, Hawaii, and all throughout Australia. Palmateer, who is also an artist, is simply referring to the four-minute film as an “art project.” The surfer is aware that it will cause a stir, positive or negative, and is ready
A west-northwest swell is moving towards Portugal and it’s significant enough that the World Surf League has announced that the Nazaré contest will be held later this week. The forecast is predicting waves in the 20-30 foot range with some potential 35 footers rolling in. Though not huge by Nazaré standards, it’s still a good swell and a welcome one by surfers who are excited to be able to paddle in. Related: Nazaré Welcomes Russell Bierke "We've officially issued a Green Alert to run