Aspen – Local’s Guide

In certain circles, I hesitate to reveal the town I live in. There are situations—say, fueling up a snowmobile at a gas station in a British Columbia logging town—where I simply say I live in Colorado. To admit residence in Aspen would invite stereotyping and tired jokes. No, I don’t own a fur coat or a private jet. I don’t carry my dog in my purse and I’ve never stepped foot in the local Prada shop. A minority perpetuates Aspen’s reputation of luxury. It’s a group made up of third homeowners, celebrities visiting for the holidays and wealthy tourists who ski to be seen. The real Aspen is comprised of middle class families, hardcore athletes, wilderness loving outdoor types and yes, real ski bums. 

A picturesque mining town deep in the Elk Mountains, Aspen is a real ski town with a lot of soul. Bordered by wilderness on three sides, the historic downtown boasts more functioning businesses than souvenir shops. It’s far enough off 1-70 to eliminate weekend warriors. The airport is ten minutes from town. The sun shines more than 300 days a year and it’s warmer than Crested Butte or Telluride. And despite the high cost of living, life in a wealthy community has its benefits. Jobs pay more here than any other ski town in the country. And when it comes to culture, Aspen offers events and opportunities that rival those of any big city. 

Between four mountains and one lift ticket, Aspen/Snowmass offers more than 5,000 acres of terrain. For efficient vertical, nothing beats “Ajax”. A high-speed top-to-bottom gondola services Aspen Mountain’s 3,267 feet of vertical just steps from downtown, and as most of Aspen’s clientele isn’t here for the skiing, lift lines are non-existent. The 65-old ski area skis much larger than its skiable acres would suggest. Find the traverses and work multiple fall lines and you’ll be rewarded with challenging steeps, fall line trees and barely skied alleyways and gullies. Don’t skip the terrain accessed from Lift 1A, the Shadow Mountain lift. The slow double chair offers the quickest access to “The Dumps”, the steep, east-facing aspen trees off the top of F.I.S. chair that many locals hit first on a powder day.

A ten-minute drive down the valley from Aspen, Aspen Highlands straddles a long ridgeline between Castle Creek and Maroon Creek valleys. A groomer runs the length of the ridge, while the off-piste steeps drop off either side. Tight chutes and steep glades hide out on every aspect and even the lower mountain offers some legit terrain. But the reason most locals hit Highlands is to hike and ski Highlands Bowl.  A 45-minute ridge hike (with spectacular views of the Maroon Bells) accesses a 12,392 summit and 1,500 vertical feet of backcountry-esque skiing. Ski the gut for a wide open, sustained pitch or ski down the ridge a ways to the North Woods. You’ll sacrifice some vertical but probably find the best snow in the bowl and an endless line up of adventurous tree runs. On a powder day, it’s a guessing game when the bowl will open, but it’s worth timing it right and hiking fast for first tracks. Once you’ve got your fix in the alpine, duck into the brand new gladed terrain just shy of the start of the bootpack.

Buttermilk and Snowmass cater to both park rats and families. Snowmass is a behemoth of a ski area, and a lot of its 3,132 acres is kid-friendly intermediate terrain, but there are some high alpine bowls that favor wide events and aesthetic cliff bands that hide some rowdy lines. There are also three terrain parks and a 22-foot superpipe. Campground lift accesses the longest steeps on the mountain. Try the fence line of Powderhorn on a powder day. You probably won’t be skiing Aspen/Snowmass’ mellowest mountain, Buttermilk, unless you’re in Aspen for the X Games or training on the remnants of the massive features later in the spring. 

Aspen’s nightlife scene need little introduction. Aspenites like to party and whether it’s Monday or Friday, there’s always some action to be found in one of the town’s 100 bars and restaurants. Follow the younger crowd to the Aspen Brewery or the Sky Hotel for après, Eric’s Bar for late-night pool and New York Pizza for a 2 a.m. snack. If there’s a good act in town (which there usually is), everyone heads to the Belly Up, Aspen’s best venue for catching a show.

Food, Drink & Entertainment On the Cheap

Avoid sticker shock at Aspen’s eateries by ordering off the bar menu. Sample the same food from the regular menu at a fraction of the price, in a more relaxed setting. 

Check the local papers for restaurant deals and the schedule at Belly Up for free local acts and movies. 

Save money on coffee and grab free coffee courtesy Aspen Skiing Company, which serves Green Mountain Coffee from a cart on the way to the Aspen Mountain gondola. Hit the welcome tables on any of the four mountains between 10-11 a.m. for complimentary Clif bars. 

Big Wrap serves affordable sandwiches, salads and smoothies, all within walking distance from the Aspen Mountain gondola. (520 E Durant Ave., Ste 101)

The Aspen Brewery allows patrons to bring their own snack while they sip on their popular brew in their downtown location. (304 East Hopkins Ave.)

The Creperie du Village offers hearty crepes and a salad for about $12. (400 E Hopkins Ave.)

The City Market hot box is always serving a hot breakfast. You’ll find burritos and egg sandwiches for under $4. (711 East Cooper Ave.)

Other cheap eats include Little Annie’s, Finbarr's Irish Pub, 520 Grill, Zane’s Tavern, The Red Onion, Hickory House, Highlands Pizza Company. For more options and deals, go to www.eataspen.com. 

Lodging

The St. Moritz Lodge offers the best bargain in town (a bunk in a two- to four-bed room for less than $60). The friendly, European–style lodge has a steam room and free breakfast, too. (970.925.3220,  www.stmoritzlodge.com)

Mountain Chalet Aspen offers bunk space for anywhere from $55-$99, depending on the month. This old-time ski lodge has been hosting budget conscience skiers since 1954. (www.mountainchaletaspen.com, 888-925-7797)

Airbnb.com lists rooms in private apartments, condos or houses. Search “low-to-high” and you’ll find two pages of listings for less than $80 per night. 

Try http://www.stayaspensnowmass.com/specials/last-minute-lodging or www.vrbo.com for last-minute deals.