Sasha DiGiulian is the First Woman to Free Climb El Capitan’s Longest Route

A deep dive into Sasha DiGiulian's historic 23-day free ascent of the Platinum Wall (Direct Line) on Yosemite's El Capitan, making her the first woman to complete the 39-pitch, 5.13d route, and detailing the storms, mental fortitude, and sheer drive required for this monumental big-wall climb.
Photo: Pablo Durana / Red Bull Content Pool

History was recently made on El Capitan, Yosemite’s legendary 3,000-foot granite monolith. World Champion climber Sasha DiGiulian has achieved the first female free ascent of the Platinum Wall (Direct Line). This 39-pitch route, rated at 5.13d, is considered the longest and one of the most uniquely challenging on El Cap. Her continuous ground-up push took a grueling 23 days, testing her limit against the rock and the elements. Ultimately, she led 27 of the route's pitches, including every crux.

The Route's Notorious Lineage

Rob “Platinum” Miller and partners established the Platinum Wall over nearly a decade, from 2009–2017. The first free ascent was completed in 2017 by Miller and Roby Rudolph after 14 days on the wall. This success was hard-won, and DiGiulian's recent continuous effort marks only the fourth team ascent of this route in history. Tobias Wolf and Thomas Hering made the second ascent in 2018; Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell repeated it this season.

Photo: Pablo Durana / Red Bull Content Pool

A Unique Challenge on Granite

The difficulty of the Platinum Wall is truly exceptional. Unlike most El Cap free routes, this line climbs stretches of seemingly blank, glacier-polished granite. It has more bolts than any El Cap route, necessary for protecting such a demanding line. The climb includes 23 pitches of 5.12 and six pitches of 5.13, with powerful roof traverses and long downclimbs.

DiGiulian prepared for this climb over three full seasons, rehearsing pitches and reviewing the complex sequences of the upper third. This monumental project, covering a distance that's unlike anything else on the wall, required extreme technical skill and laser-precise focus.



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The Storm and the Portaledge Ordeal

DiGiulian and her partner, Elliot Faber, began their continuous ascent on November 2. While they had planned for weather windows, a major, unforeseen storm brought the climb to a halt on day nine. They were forced to set up camp on a portaledge, at the 32nd pitch to wait out the relentless storm.

"I'm not sure where the line between pipe dream and crazy is at this point but I'm here to try... can't wait for the storm to pass and the sun to come out and dry these top pitches so I can give this climb my best fight..."

Sasha DiGiulian, after a nine-day pause mid-summit as a storm halted her push up El Capitan

For nine of their 23 days, they were pinned down by heavy rain, snowfall, and fierce winds. The conditions were brutally cold and wet, with condensation pooling inside the tent and snowmelt dripping from the anchor. DiGiulian later shared that the experience was both a physical and mental gauntlet.

Perseverance to the Summit

As the storm cleared, it left the rock wet and slick, intensifying the difficulty of the upper pitches. Despite these slick surfaces, DiGiulian pressed on. Just short of the summit, Faber had to depart due to a family emergency. DiGiulian, after waiting two days, ultimately topped out on November 26 with the support of Ryan Sheridan and a camera crew.

The triumph of the 23-day ordeal was palpable. DiGiulian referred to the experience as the “most formative and challenging climb” of her celebrated career. She has long been a trailblazer in climbing, with over 30 First Female Ascents globally. This achievement solidifies her legacy and paves the way for future generations of big-wall climbers.

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