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Photos Compliments of the Revelstoke Chamber of Commerce
Swooping through the alpine forest I swing back and forth digging in with each turn. I grab a glimpse of the town of Revelstoke through the trees, far below, but the route ahead quickly grabs my attention. I carve around a corner, whip through an open meadow, drop into a grove of big hemlock trees, whooping and laughing the whole way.
I have been pilgrimaging to the mountains around Revelstoke for years to harvest turns. But this visit is different. For one thing it's mid-August. For another, I'm on my bike.
Rather than blowing through drifts of deep Selkirk fluff, I'm ripping through flowy Monashee singletrack. This is Revelstoke's emerging counter personality to its snowy reputation. Long known as a winter destination—with big mountains, big snow and the amazing ski touring and sledding that goes with both—The Stoke deservedly garnered a following as a backcountry skiing Mecca. Heli and hut bound rippers flocked here. In town, ski guides and powder bums rubbed shoulders with the majority blue collar locals who worked the rail line or in the forestry and mining industries. But with the expansion of micro Powder Springs into Revelstoke Mountain Resort in 2007, the scales tipped. The outdoorsy folks started to take over and as they did, using pulaski, chainsaw and shovel, they sculpted Revelstoke's natural bounty into a four season playground—one especially enjoyed from the seat of a knobby tired stead.
That's where I sit as I overheat my disc brake rotors on the effortless descent of Frisby Ridge. Two hours ago I'd rolled into the trailhead parking lot with Ryan Creary, a local action sports photographer, and started the long, gradual climb to the top, first through old clear cuts with nice views of the snowy Selkirk and Monashee mountains that surround Revy, then into mature old growth that slowly opened into flower filled meadows before giving way to alpine heather. Built by the local mountain bike club as an approachable epic ride for all levels, it certainly delivers. Every inch is pedal-able grade with the occasional short flat or dip to give the legs a break. More than six miles later we had topped out and enjoyed a short swooping downhill to an alpine lake. Then it was back the way we came. Lovingly cut from the rich soil, the trail is buff and fast, swinging back and forth all the way down. Early on a smile creases my face and never leaves.
“That is what convinced me to move here,” Creary says as we rack our bikes in the parking lot. He'd been living in Canmore in the shadow of the Canadian Rockies for about ten years, renting a place in Revelstoke for the last few snow seasons, but always moving back come freshet for the paddling, climbing and mountain biking. “Then last year I spent a few weeks here during the summer and it really opened my eyes,” he says. “This place has it all and the mountain biking is some of the best I've ever done.” After my first course I can't argue.
My stomach and the clock say it's dinner time when we pull into town, so we bee line to Kawakubo for a serious feed of deadly sushi. Being from Vancouver, the home to some of the best raw fish this side of the Pacific, I am pretty impressed by the quality.
The next morning we swing by The Modern for a morning pick me up and to grab a snack for the trail. Instead we fall into an hour of bragging and gossip with friends of Creary's, a frequent problem in this town full of the seasonally employed. When we finally hit the road we assess our options. We don't have time now for one of the hike-a-bike epics, like Keystone Basin or Mt. Cartier summit. Instead we need to choose from ripping up the local cross country trails just outside of town at Mt. Macpherson, heading to Boulder Mountain for downhill laps, or shuttling a 5,000 foot descent. Tough call.
After an hour plus haul on logging roads north of Revelstoke we arrive at the radio towers at the top of the Martha Creek Trail, a varied mix of trail descending almost 5,000 feet over five miles. We coast into the first section and immediately I wonder if I've gotten in over my head. The riding is steep and technical with lots of rocks to negotiate. My hands soon start to cramp from braking so hard. As I gingerly roll another granite boulder (with my ass brushing my back tire), I doubt if my body or bike can handle 5,000 feet of this. But the terrain soon changes. We pop out into a beautiful meadow and are soon whizzing nonchalantly through the flowers and heather, enjoying the view and giving the legs, arms and hands a welcome rest. Of course this doesn't last. We hit the treeline and dive into the difficult again. Sharp corners test my balance and braking as I ride the line between upright and in control and teetering off the edge on hair pins and rooty sections. It continues like this, relentlessly tumbling down with short breaks to ease the pain.
We eventually emerge dusty, hot and parched, but thoroughly satisfied. On the way home we empty our adrenaline tank with one more stunt, a cliff jump into chilly Lake Revelstoke. Part of the Columbia River, its placid waters here are lined with cliffs. Some of the bigger ones have been developed into sport climbing areas, just one of several spots nearby that are adding to Revy's growing rep as a four season playground. There's also excellent whitewater paddling on nearby creeks and rivers, paragliding on the valley thermals and world-class mountaineering throughout the nearby mountains.
“That's what I love about living here,” Creary says as we climb back into his truck, wet and refreshed. “There's just so much to do and it's all amazing.”
Beta
Tourism Revelstoke maintains a website full of info on visiting the area: seerevelstoke.com
Where to Stay
There's a full range of hotels, motels, resorts, campgrounds and B&Bs in the Revelstoke area. Camping? Check out Williamson's Lake Campground with a sandy beach at one of the best swimming holes in the area (williamslakecampground.com).
Where to Eat
The Village Idiot
306 Mackenzie Ave
250-837-6240
Our pick for a casual fill is The Village Idiot. Forgive the name and fill up on gourmet pizza and beer at the funkiest pub in town.
Woolsey Creek Cafe
600 2nd Street
woolseycreekbistro.ca
250-837-5500
For something fancier, the Woolsey Creek Cafe may cost a few more bucks but is worth every cent.
Kawakubo
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109-1st Street East
kawakubo-revelstoke.com
250-837-2467
The atmosphere at Kawakubo feels way more cosmopolitan than one might expect to find in this backwoods town.
Where to Drink
Start the evening with live, free music on Revy's main street. Every night throughout the summer the town shuts the street to cars. Locals set up lawn chairs and kids groove as bands jam in the fading sun.
Mt. Begbie Brewing Co.
521 1st Street West
Best Coffee
The Modern Bakeshop & Cafe
212 Mackenzie Avenue
250-837-6886
Grab a morning java jolt and a baked snack for the trail at The Modern Bakeshop & Cafe on Revy's quaint main street.
Where to Get Tuned
Flowt Bikes & Skis
709 Victoria
bikerevelstoke.org
Wandering Heels offers shuttle services for Boulder Mountain, Martha Creek and Frisby Ridge and guiding on all local trails and other Kootenay classics nearby (wanderingwheels.ca).
Where to Swim
Cliffs and rope swings help with getting into the refreshing waters of Lake Revelstoke. Warmer waters can be found at Echo Lake and Williamson Lake, both a short drive from town.
