John John Florence on Getting Shattered, Stealing Back his Waves
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It’s 5 o’clock in the morning, nerves are going, everything’s going, guys are getting worked by huge closeout sets, and all John John Florence says is, “It’s so on now.”
The 23-year-old Hawaiian who was first put on a surfboard at six-months of age describes sitting at the base of the biggest whitewater he’s ever seen, thinking, “I just want to survive it.” We’re not talking ten footers; we’re talking 25-foot beasts, and beasts that just keep coming.
John John Florence wants back at the top of the leader board, and he’s doing it. At 3:20, you’ll see him elevator drop five stories of Pacific ocean straight vertical, disappearing into the whitewater, and coming out with complete control. He’s on his quest for the World Title.
Florence’s one of the more humble athletes out there. He isn’t shy to admit that right at the end of his run at the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast competition (the first event of the WSL Championship) at Snapper Rocks, Coolangatta, one of Australia’s favorite point breaks, he, “made a huge priority mistake.” He was winning the whole heat, and then just picked the wrong wave, leaving Stuart Kennedy to do turn after turn after turn after turn on the one right behind.
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As a good sport, Florence says the comp was still, “A good start to the year.” He says, “[Surfing’s] about finding the balance of enjoying it and having a competitive mindset…that’s when you’re going to be the happiest…that’s when you’re going to surf your best.”
Florence is surfing smarter, and showing mind-blowing form. Why? He’s putting in the work: first thing every morning, he paddles out and surfs, no matter what. He puts aggression into the waves, but does so with grace and respect. He’s also “listening to people more than in the years past,” taking advantage of wise fellows who have that much more experience. He’s trying to read the water better.
But the surfer’s fired up now. Recent near wins/ sudden losses have stung, and he’s ready to be rewarded. He knows the ocean’s unpredictable, owning up to the fact that, “You can’t control it,” but he also knows the mistakes he’s making, and those he can control. His final words: “This is never going to happen again.” Florence’s no longer going to let people have his waves. Game’s on.
