How Two Climbers Conquered one of the Last Unclimbed Himalayan Giants
Jannu East has always been more than just a mountain. It’s the eastern prominence of its eponymous peak, Kumbhakarna (the main Jannu massif). At 7,468 meters (24,501 feet), this colossal Himalayan peak was one of the final "great unclimbed problems". For over three decades, it turned back more than a dozen elite international teams, yet the mountain has finally yielded its summit.
French alpinists Benjamin Védrines and Nicolas Jean made history, completing the first-ever ascent via a bold new route on the imposing North Face. The entire push was completed in pure alpine style—no bottled oxygen, no fixed ropes, and no Sherpa support.
7,500 Vertical Feet of Technical Terror
Védrines and Jean named their route Le Sommet des Pieux, or "The Summit of Pickets". It is a masterpiece of precision. They ascended 7,500 vertical feet (2,300m) of unrelenting climbing. In fact, the lower sections were steep, hard snow where protection was minimal, demanding absolute trust in their movements and each other.
The technical climbing was relentless. The team battled difficult mixed climbing up to M6 and ice up to WI5. Furthermore, after three days of upward momentum, they faced a complex ridge traverse. This spine of the mountain, above 23,000 feet, was loaded with deep, corniced snow. This phase of the climb was physically exhausting and required immense concentration.
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A Personal Dream Realized at the Limit
For Védrines, this was no ordinary expedition. He had dreamed of this peak for nearly a decade after first spotting the line in 2017 from nearby Pandra. Moreover, the peak was a personal commitment—his late friend Pierre Labbre had been captivated by it before his passing in 2019. The climb was, in many ways, an act of fulfillment.
Védrines is known for his speed, holding records on giants like Broad Peak (7h 28m) and K2 (10h 50m). However, this ascent represented a shift. This climb was about partnership, vision, and completing the line, not just quickly moving through it. Upon reaching the true summit after a dangerous traverse, Védrines captured the raw human emotion of the moment: "I shed a small tear — it was strong, real, simple".
This adventure serves as a powerful reminder that while the mountains are immense, the human spirit that seeks them out is often greater.
