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  1. #5126
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Walpole NH
    Posts
    10,828

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Whoa dude, I still praise Jah on the regs. Slow yer roll. I also give thanks to Hofmann from time to time. Just not into alcohol anymore.
    Take one
    crab in my shoe mouth

  2. #5127
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Down East
    Posts
    265
    Ok, so it sounds like the 110 brakes for the 102's...Thanks!

  3. #5128
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    A LSD Steakhouse somewhere in the Wasatch
    Posts
    13,234
    id still bend the 95 out
    but i got a to wide brake stick in a ripped gaiter of my bibs and locked into an highspeed groomer beatdown
    so i go tight is right now
    "When the child was a child it waited patiently for the first snow and it still does"- Van "The Man" Morrison
    "I find I have already had my reward, in the doing of the thing" - Buzz Holmstrom
    "THIS IS WHAT WE DO"-AML -ski on in eternal peace
    "I have posted in here but haven't read it carefully with my trusty PoliAsshat antenna on."-DipshitDanno

  4. #5129
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    8530' MST/200' EST
    Posts
    4,396
    ^i have also done that, it is terrifying.
    "If we can't bring the mountain to the party, let's bring the PARTY to the MOUNTAIN!"

  5. #5130
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    1,888
    Before I install my second CAST, the first setup I did a month ago, one of the skis I had to loosen one or two of the toe plate screws maybe 1/4 turn each from tight to get both the Look and Pin toe pieces to move smoother. The second ski was perfect.

    Should I be worried...AM I GOING TO DIE?

    The Pin toe does 'wear in' so I probably could tighten the screws again but does that require a bit more glue or is it sealed enough I don't have to worry?

  6. #5131
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Down East
    Posts
    265
    Quote Originally Posted by skifishbum View Post
    id still bend the 95 out
    but i got a to wide brake stick in a ripped gaiter of my bibs and locked into an highspeed groomer beatdown
    so i go tight is right now
    Yeah I don’t want that to happen. Never thought of it that way….
    You think the same for the 120s? Go with 110s?

  7. #5132
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    2,720
    Hoping this doesn’t launch another argument but can I drill a Bent Chetler 100 with a 3.6 bit? Topsheet says 4.1 but I don’t think there’s metal. I don’t have a 4.1 but will get one if it’s required
    Quote Originally Posted by other grskier View Post
    well, in the three years i've been skiing i bet i can ski most anything those 'pro's' i listed can, probably

  8. #5133
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    beaverhead county
    Posts
    4,528
    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Mantooth View Post
    Hoping this doesn’t launch another argument but can I drill a Bent Chetler 100 with a 3.6 bit? Topsheet says 4.1 but I don’t think there’s metal. I don’t have a 4.1 but will get one if it’s required
    Strange that it says that. Definitely no metal in BCs.
    swing your fucking sword.

  9. #5134
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    On another tangent.
    Posts
    3,853
    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Mantooth View Post
    Hoping this doesn’t launch another argument but can I drill a Bent Chetler 100 with a 3.6 bit? Topsheet says 4.1 but I don’t think there’s metal. I don’t have a 4.1 but will get one if it’s required
    FTR, The 4.1mm diameter bit or an alpine tap is about the same as the shank of a 5.5mm alpine screw. If the topsheet can compress enough to allow the tap or screw to be driven through without volcanoing dramatically, you may not die, nor will your skis explode. I recommend tapping regardless.

    As a point of reference, the thickness of 5 sheets of paper is about the difference between the two bit diameters. So if you are a risk taker, not super anal, are moderately skilled and OK with a slight wallowing of the drill bit you can assimilate the wider diameter at the topsheet....otherwise stick with the manufacturer's recommendation.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  10. #5135
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    687
    ^ keep your tips left though

  11. #5136
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    8,318
    A 5/32" is 3.97mm. I mean, if you got freedom units handy.

  12. #5137
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Walpole NH
    Posts
    10,828
    This is the tap we use in the drill, it will only cut 3 deep and no more. Makes it easy
    Click image for larger version. 

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    crab in my shoe mouth

  13. #5138
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    On another tangent.
    Posts
    3,853
    How do you keep it from over spinning and tearing out the threads?

    Quote Originally Posted by buttahflake View Post
    This is the tap we use in the drill, it will only cut 3 deep and no more. Makes it easy
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR

  14. #5139
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    2,720
    Quote Originally Posted by jono View Post
    A 5/32" is 3.97mm. I mean, if you got freedom units handy.
    After seeing a ski that had been drilled clean through because the homemade collar slipped I’m only using ski specific bits from now on

    It probably happened because the tips were pointed to the right
    Quote Originally Posted by other grskier View Post
    well, in the three years i've been skiing i bet i can ski most anything those 'pro's' i listed can, probably

  15. #5140
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Walpole NH
    Posts
    10,828
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    How do you keep it from over spinning and tearing out the threads?
    Mad skillz? It’s a fucking drill, not hard to use. Go slow and low.
    crab in my shoe mouth

  16. #5141
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    The Bull City
    Posts
    14,003
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    FTR, The 4.1mm diameter bit or an alpine tap is about the same as the shank of a 5.5mm alpine screw. If the topsheet can compress enough to allow the tap or screw to be driven through without volcanoing dramatically, you may not die, nor will your skis explode. I recommend tapping regardless.

    As a point of reference, the thickness of 5 sheets of paper is about the difference between the two bit diameters. So if you are a risk taker, not super anal, are moderately skilled and OK with a slight wallowing of the drill bit you can assimilate the wider diameter at the topsheet....otherwise stick with the manufacturer's recommendation.
    THIS.. Just don't EVER go wider diameter than recommended. Pretty sure the bit I use to mount skis (probably about a dozen pairs this century) is a smaller diameter than recommended. It may dimple a little at the top when a fatter screw goes in her but she'll adjust and happy with that. Go too fat and you get spinners...
    Go that way really REALLY fast. If something gets in your way, TURN!

  17. #5142
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    On another tangent.
    Posts
    3,853
    Quote Originally Posted by buttahflake View Post
    Mad skillz? It’s a fucking drill, not hard to use. Go slow and low.
    I like the idea (without cutting the tap), but would hate to go 1/4 turn too much. Stopping short and rotating the rest by hand might be wise for starters until you get the feel.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
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  18. #5143
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Mantooth View Post
    After seeing a ski that had been drilled clean through because the homemade collar slipped I’m only using ski specific bits from now on
    I've had a setscrewed collar slip, a piece of tape on the drill also slips so I drill thru a chunk of 2x4 or a 1.5 " wine bottle cork is perfect size, leave it on the bit with the length of drill you want showing and thats as far as the bit can go, all that can happen is the drill bit slips in the chuck and you don't drill far enough
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #5144
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Inside the Circle
    Posts
    4,167
    With no place to ski today (not going to go back to Killington until it's t2b) I decided to catch up on some mounts.

    (1) Put an old pair of Freeride + on a friend's brandy new FX106 HPs. He's 73 and decided to go short (176) down from some 184 Mantras.
    (2) Put a pair of Look NX10s on Mrs. MNIAW's 2nd pair of Ripstick 86Ws. She's tall and rocks them in 173.
    (3) Put a pair of Marker Lords on my brandy new Blizzard Sheevas (they're the exact same ski as the Rustler 11 but can be had for almost half price in 188). Was thinking about painting them flat black to hide the topsheet but I'm comfortable with my masculinity so gonna ski 'em as is.

    I use paper templates and got a 3D printed centering jig from RFConroy; that tool saved me a bunch of time getting the centerline right.

    Don't know why, but I've always done tips left. I must be an idiot savant.
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  20. #5145
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    1,279
    Re: drilling tapping, ski tips, etc.
    Tips go whichever way I put the ski on the saw-horses. It's not even guaranteed both skis of the pair will face the same direction.
    I do admit that I've started to drill more than once and wondered if I had it right and wasn't mounting backwards. (Amazingly, as many things as I mix up, I haven't managed that yet.)

    And, I dunno, I drill and tap all my holes with the drill.
    And apply all the screws with the impact. (I usually snug them up/check them the last bit with a screwdriver.)
    Easy touch helps.

    Of course, all my skis are heavy as hell with sheets and sheets of metal and have cores made from ironwood, so it probably doesn't matter. (Ok, yeah, the ironwood is exaggeration.)
    (I do set the drill clutch really low and a low-gear RPM for tapping, which helps.)

    But if we all need to have some drama about it, go for it. I'm good.
    Perhaps I'm stupid, have the IQ of a hamster, or lazy (why not all three?) - but it's worked for quite a few mounts so far.
    YMMV.

  21. #5146
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIsAugustWest View Post
    With no place to ski today (not going to go back to Killington until it's t2b) I decided to catch up on some mounts.

    (1) Put an old pair of Freeride + on a friend's brandy new FX106 HPs. He's 73 and decided to go short (176) down from some 184 Mantras.
    (2) Put a pair of Look NX10s on Mrs. MNIAW's 2nd pair of Ripstick 86Ws. She's tall and rocks them in 173.
    (3) Put a pair of Marker Lords on my brandy new Blizzard Sheevas (they're the exact same ski as the Rustler 11 but can be had for almost half price in 188). Was thinking about painting them flat black to hide the topsheet but I'm comfortable with my masculinity so gonna ski 'em as is.

    I use paper templates and got a 3D printed centering jig from RFConroy; that tool saved me a bunch of time getting the centerline right.

    Don't know why, but I've always done tips left. I must be an idiot savant.
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    I honestly love the Sheeva top-sheets. I could go for more of that on "Mens" skis. Just sold a pair of 2018's that looked really nice.

  22. #5147
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Where the climate suits my clothes.
    Posts
    5,601
    I'll be doing 4 mounts in the next few weeks. Three for me (one new, one remount. one remount for Tele) and one using old holes for my daughter.

    Plan to screw them all in by hand. No metal, no taps. Paper templates. Always tips left.

    Will post pics once done.

    Now that I think of it, are there templates for hammerheads? Can't remember when or how I last mounted them..

  23. #5148
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    687
    ^ ya hammerhead templates are around. Should be easy to find as I'm pretty sure they have the same pattern as the current 22 designs lineup.

  24. #5149
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    beaverhead county
    Posts
    4,528
    I've got quite a bit to catch up on after putting mounts off for the last 2 months. 3 sets of CAST (2 second ski kits) and then perhaps a set of inserts for CAST on at least one other ski. 2 skis are new, all others will involve some serious swiss cheese-ing. Stocked up on my oak dowel and g-flex today.
    swing your fucking sword.

  25. #5150
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Base of LCC
    Posts
    1,622
    The tips face left

    Don't eat yellow snow

    Sean Connery kills it on Jeopardy with your mama jokes on SNL

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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