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Thread: Re-greasing Creaky Bike
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10-09-2018, 06:57 AM #1
Re-greasing Creaky Bike
My ‘17 Devinci Troy (carbon) is starting to creak (in the rear triangle I’m pretty sure), after 1.5 seasons of use, so I’ll be taking it apart this winter to re grease everything.
This is my first time doing this kind of service so my question is what type of grease should I use? Brands aside, is there a specific spec/type for suspension bushings? Same grease used everywhere (suspension pivot wise)? Don’t want to have to buy multiple variations of greases/lubes if not necessary.
Also, while starting to read about this service I came across stanchion lube...is this a thing? Or a gimmick? Saw something about pulling back wiper seal and putting some product in there. Need to buy specific type of lube for this (if even recommended to do)?
Thanks
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10-09-2018, 07:37 AM #2
Each part (BB, headset, pedals) will have its own grease that is suggested by that company.
This is a great idea, but Do you have the tools, or skills, to remove and clean/grease all the parts?
if not start simple with the headset (odds are the lower bearing needs work) and maybe check the BB. Suspension work usually is replacing parts/bearings and not just cleaning and this needs some skill and tools that might not be worth it to buy
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10-09-2018, 07:55 AM #3
Yeh, I’ve got the tools(mostly)/skills to do this (avid automotive hobbyist amongst many other mechanical work hobbies). Not concerned about the disassembly/reassembly...just want to make sure I got the bike specific aspects straight before I get into it.
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10-09-2018, 08:30 AM #4Gluten Free Dan
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Check your shock hardware while you are at it. My Troy chewed threw a set over two seasons.
http://2017.devinci.com/site_media/u..._2016-RevC.pdf
As far as I remember, they just want regular grease in the pivots. There aren't any bushings on that frame, all bearings. When open the pivots, clean everything nicely and spin the bearings by hand. If there's any stiction or grittiness, probably best to replace them as opposed to trying to clean and re-grease.
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10-09-2018, 10:58 AM #5
this is good for most things and is better then not greasing, and usually can't hurt, and wont make worse.
https://www.parktool.com/product/pol...ant-tube-ppl-1
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10-09-2018, 11:30 AM #6
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10-09-2018, 11:32 AM #7
This is the best stuff I've found, long lasting and easy to apply.
“I really lack the words to compliment myself today.” - Alberto Tomba
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10-09-2018, 11:34 AM #8
I am going to do the same over the winter and need to replace my tube of Santa Cruz grease for the pivots. Any recommendations on whether I should just buy another tube of the same or is there another option that would fit the grease gun I should look at?
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10-09-2018, 11:45 AM #9Registered User
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IME you will probably need to use carbon paste on carbon parts
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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10-10-2018, 08:20 AM #10
I thought carbon paste was for retaining things like dropper posts from slipping in the seat tube etc, as it has particles in it to get some grip.
Is there some need to use a carbon compatible grease where grease touches parts of the frame as to not damage the frame? I don't believe this should be a concern with regular greases suggested above?
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10-10-2018, 09:02 AM #11
Carbon paste is for parts that aren't supposed to move (like a seatpost). Grease is for everything else.
I use the Park Tool Polylube 1000 for basically everything non suspension, as toast said.
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10-10-2018, 09:17 AM #12
I looked into that once, and as best I could find, there isn't a concern about grease affecting carbon. I suppose there could be weird specific greases with some caustic effect...
For bike grease, I use a white lithium grease for repacking bearings on things that spin a lot (hubs, bottom bracket, pedals - though the first two are mostly cartridge anymore). I use a heavier red grease for things that don't spin a lot, or at all, and where I want the grease to have greater resistance to washing away (headset, bolts, anything threaded) - the sticky red grease stays put better than the lithium. Antisieze only where called for by manufacturer - it's messy stuff and expensive. I like teflon tape on threaded bottom bracket bearing shells, for quieting creaks.
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10-10-2018, 09:32 AM #13Banned
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Modern bikes generally do not need a full overhaul / rebuild to prevent creaking. If something is creaking, it's a sign that component is installed improperly, loose, broken, or not lubricated properly. If your suspension bearings (or shock bushings) have play or a notchy feeling, this will be noticeable and you should service them as needed.
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10-10-2018, 09:58 AM #14
Coincidentally (or maybe not) the creaks recently showed up after washing my bike (it was necessary, caked in mud from a wet ride). However, I don't use high pressure and try not to spray the pivot areas/bearings. So, I'm concerned that between two seasons of use, some wet rides, transporting the bike on back of car when raining, a few bike washes etc, that it's time to pull apart and re-grease/check bearings/repack if required.
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10-10-2018, 10:30 AM #15Registered User
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Both my son and I had creaking seat posts on our yeti 5.5's with a fox seat post, if you get out of the saddle the creaking stopped so it was pretty easy to diagnose
I tried cleaning & greasing, I tried wax based chain lube, I tried teflon pipe thread tape all of which helped to some degree but never eliminated the creaking which is annoying on a 6000 $ bike
So we cleaned all that stuff out of there and used carbon paste which stopped the creaking completely for both of us
I think the stuff might come with some carbon accessories and bikes but if you can afford carbon anything you can afford to buy a tube of carbon paste and maybe your dealer will just give you some,
I have taken to using it to retain any part i don't want to creak even if it isnt carbon ... like on seat railsLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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10-10-2018, 10:57 AM #16
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10-10-2018, 10:57 AM #17Gluten Free Dan
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Ah, above reminds me:
Check your clutch! Turn it off and compress the suspension.
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10-10-2018, 11:00 AM #18
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10-10-2018, 11:12 AM #19Registered User
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well i was just assuming even dentists would be smart enough to figure that ^^ one out but a creak can come from ANYWHERE so in addition to a grease job maybe the bike needs some carbon paste ??
I have written before about 2 bike shops 3 or 4 techs spending 4-6 hrs looking for a creak that turned out to be the rear wheel slipping in the dropouts because the QR was just half loose enough to allow the rear wheel to slip/creak sometimes
for loose bearings and sleeves Loctite makes sleeve and bearing retainer compound, the guy who told me about it was the foreman in a locomotive repair shop, I used it on creaking square taper cranks and it worked 100%Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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10-11-2018, 08:03 AM #20Banned
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I've taken to using PTFE pipe thread sealant compound on friction/interference fit parts - press fit BB, seatpost, headset, cassette. Seems to give a good combination of buffer, lubrication and friction.
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10-11-2018, 08:21 AM #21
Lubrication and friction together, huh?
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10-11-2018, 03:28 PM #22
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