Results 7,151 to 7,175 of 9618
Thread: Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
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08-11-2022, 06:48 AM #7151
Just the thought of prepping some pallet wood makes me cringe. Often it's tough old oak. The nails are practically epoxied in there and often need a crowbar to separate. Then removing all the metal bits and planing each board...waiting for the one nail to ruin the blade. No thanks.
The marquetry is nice though. And I've heard some pallets from the far east end up being exotic woods.
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Kevo, glad it worked out proper for ya. Was wondering how it went.
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08-11-2022, 09:21 AM #7152
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08-11-2022, 09:39 AM #7153Registered User
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I too love the smell of chemically treated pallets off gassing in the morning.
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08-11-2022, 09:39 AM #7154
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08-11-2022, 10:10 AM #7155
^ If the clamps are the pinch-together variety there is a tool made to close and release them.
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08-11-2022, 10:21 AM #7156
They're this style:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Plum...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
I have a crimp tool to fasten them closed, but as best I can tell, the tool does not release the clamps.
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08-11-2022, 10:38 AM #7157
Those are different than the automotive cinch clamps I've seen. Looks like the locking tab can be bent up and then clamp removed? At least some of the automotive versions retain some spring so you just use the cinch clamp pliers to add a little tension then release the catch point.
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08-11-2022, 10:50 AM #7158
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08-11-2022, 11:40 AM #7159one of those sickos
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Cut the band either with a grinder or across the crimped part with sharp angle cutter (ask Gunder for some suggestions).
ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
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08-11-2022, 04:44 PM #7160
Dikes is the answer. As you know already.
Once the clamp is off, use a heat gun to soften the hose.
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08-11-2022, 08:55 PM #7161
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08-12-2022, 06:21 AM #7162
I’m amused that dikes can still be called dikes.
Is it just a New England thing?
Grew up Midwest. They were wire cutters there.
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08-12-2022, 09:41 AM #7163
Dike: Diagonal Pliers
Dike: Bulldyke: Bull Dick: “well dressed man”
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsBest Skier on the Mountain
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08-12-2022, 10:58 AM #7164
I'm getting a new cedar fence and there is conflicting information regarding sealing/staining on the internet (imagine that!)
Do I need to stain or seal the fence to maximize life? This is in Western CO, high desert climate. My old house had a cedar fence that I don't think was ever sealed. It had a weathered appearance but was holding up fine and was >10 years old when I sold the place.
I'd love to skip it since it is a fair amount of work, as long as I won't regret it down the road.
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08-12-2022, 11:19 AM #7165
short answer: yes, if your only goal is maximizing life
UV will degrade untreated cedar; water isn't the only problem
in the order of unprotected to most protected:
unstained
transparent stain
semi-transparent stain
semi-solid stain
solid stain
painted
that all said, untreated cedar is still pretty durable and, imho, the best looking
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08-12-2022, 11:19 AM #7166Registered User
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Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-12-2022, 11:38 AM #7167
And that's my conundrum. I'm not going to do anything beyond semi-transparent, and I agree that untreated is the best looking, and IMO matches the character of my house the best. So I guess my question is, what is the real world difference in durability/lifetime between unstained and transparent stain?
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08-12-2022, 11:49 AM #7168
In our stupid PNW climate, we get 20-30 years out of cedar fence boards, untreated.
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08-12-2022, 12:03 PM #7169
On the Front Range it's generally the fence support structure that goes before the cedar slats.
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08-12-2022, 12:50 PM #7170
Mostly agree.
I think treated wood looks better than greyed out wood.
A painted(paint will provide the most UV protection)fence will rot faster than any other treatment, unless fastidiously maintained! Water will eventually get under the film and not dry out, encouraging rot.
UV's kills all finishes.
Also, oil finishes will add elasticity back into the wood, helping w/ cracking/warping
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08-12-2022, 12:52 PM #7171
Yeah, that's been my experience everywhere I've ever lived, too. That's the whole reason I'm replacing my current fence. Snapped posts everywhere. While the slats are beat up, they could have been reused. My artsy friend took about half the fence to repurpose, since its pretty old with big saw blade cuts. He's gonna tell people its from an old barn in Telluride
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08-12-2022, 12:55 PM #7172
Form the tops of your post bases to shed water away from post and a drainage pad(compactable gravel) @ the bottom of your hole
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08-12-2022, 02:15 PM #7173
Assuming you keep the ends of the boards off the dirt. It's easy to ignore dirt building up against the bottoms of boards that used to be above grade.
We built a fence with the boards on our side of the supports. Neighbor than puts boards on his side, trapping moisture and debirs, so the post rot above grade. We learned to build fences that look good from the "back" side.
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08-12-2022, 05:32 PM #7174
Amen. Make the little above grade pyramids on post bases too, like Tuco said.
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08-12-2022, 09:21 PM #7175
We had a fence built with galvanized steel Z posts. Trimmed out the posts to look like solid wood posts. Should last longer than me.
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