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Thread: Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
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09-07-2021, 08:32 PM #5001
Sounds about right. I'm starting a project to re-finish my deck. I can't even get the existing paint off. Home depot paint guy recommended using Behr stripper to remove it. Youtube confirmed it should work great. Didn't work at all. Back to HD where the guy said this Jasco stuff will take paint off anything. Worked a bit better but I had to put all my weight on a scraper to get it off. Took about 3 hrs to scrape a 2ft x 5ft section. Screw that. Turns out previous owner used Behr DeckOver which is super thick and hard to get off. Some research said its hard to get off even with the most coarse sanding discs. Found this one type that was actually in stock locally that is pretty much a masticator that you attach to an angle grinder. Tried it out on a small section tonite and it looks very promising. Can't deal with the side walls or trellis above the deck until I hear back from the HOA about some rotten wood that needs to be replaced. Only been waiting a couple years on that.
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09-07-2021, 08:44 PM #5002
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09-07-2021, 08:51 PM #5003
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09-07-2021, 09:08 PM #5004man of ice
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evdog maybe try a torch on it.
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09-07-2021, 10:03 PM #5005
Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice
Large bedroom in Palest Pistachio. I like it so much was considering for great room https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/...?color=2122-60.
It’s middle right on my color palate
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09-08-2021, 04:16 AM #5006
Deck over is pure evil.
It’s like lineX. For decks.
The only use is a failing deck, to buy a few more years. And even then it sucks.
Semi solid or solid stain is acceptable.. . .
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09-08-2021, 07:57 AM #5007Registered User
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I spent the better part of a summer trying to strip our deck. Local hardware stores stopped renting floor sanders, because people fuck them up and don't clean them. Also, they don't work very well unless the deck is perfectly flat, which mine definitely wasn't. I spent a ton of time and money on paint stripper, and went through two belt sanders, and some hand sanders before I got it all mostly cleared up. Stained it and now I still have to stain it again every other year.
IMHO, next time I'm ripping it all up and putting down trex. YMMV
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09-08-2021, 09:35 AM #5008
We sprayed our house. Took us most of a day to tape everything off and about an hour and a half to spray the whole thing including figuring out how to use it. Other than a couple of drips it worked out great. About 10x the cost of a roller but worth the time savings
Turned our garage into a dexter killing room and did all the doors in there.
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09-08-2021, 10:01 AM #5009
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09-08-2021, 10:09 AM #5010
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09-08-2021, 10:18 AM #5011Registered User
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I have 3 projects that need doing in the next year or so. I am no tradesman, but i am an engineer, and typically do well DIYing, though i dont really enjoy it at all. I will also have a newborn anyday now. Are any of these worth worth DIYing, or is the risk/reward ratio skewed in favor of shelling out for a pro:
1) replace 2 hose bibs. currently stripped (only operated with pliers) and or leaky. 1 is easy access from the garage, the other should likely be accessed through the crawlspace that is apparently filthy with rodent droppings and mummified corpses according to the home inspector that did the inspection a couple months ago- i doubt it will be easy access.
2) install a PRV on the water service line into the house. Can probably be installed on the line as it enters the garage- looks to be easy access, but could be a big fuckup if done wrong and i have no specific tools or prior knowledge.
3) Hardwire a circuit from the garage (where the breaker is) to the outdoor patio at the back of the house (run the conduit external to house) to run speakers, lights and a couple infrared heaters.
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09-08-2021, 10:20 AM #5012Banned
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09-08-2021, 10:48 AM #5013
Talk to me about roof snow guards. I have a ribbed metal roof that drops snow in front of my garage doors. Needs some sort of snow retention system.
Roof is roughly 34' wide x 14' run. Roughly 4:12 pitch. Snow load is about 75 psf.
Any reason to go with the individual "cleat" style guards vs. continuous snow fences across the entire width? Or maybe a combination of cleats with a continuous fence at the bottom edge? It's not a standing seam roof, so any option is going to get screwed in through the metal roofing.
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09-08-2021, 10:55 AM #5014
That pic was taken at max zoom on my phone, so I was too far away to see all the details IRL, but I did manage to get a closer look over the weekend. The Tyvek is good from far, far from good. Lots of wrinkles, sloppy cuts, etc. As for the window installation, the upstairs and downstairs windows are installed with different products. The ground floor windows are all done with Vycor (or similar) and have corner cuts, and the Tyvek wasn't wrapped over the cripples. It's ok though, it never rains here.
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09-08-2021, 11:00 AM #5015
Fwiw and ymmv. I have a slate roof (so slippery like metal) and we had the cleat style guards. I have about 70 of the goddamn things in my shed now. I took them all off because when the avalanche eventually starts it rips the cleats out and damages the slate. I discovered I'd rather shovel than fix the roof slate. My neighbor who has asphalt shingle, doesn't have this issue because shingles "grip" the snow.
This is very disappointing to hear. They spring for a top quality house wrap and then do shit like that. Should have gone with tar paper to keep the materials quality on par with the installation."timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang
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09-08-2021, 11:08 AM #5016
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09-08-2021, 11:11 AM #5017Registered User
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1. Depending on type of supply line that is connected to the hose bid it can be 10 minutes or all kinds of punishment. IF you're not super sure about it all you might be able to source the same fixture and just replace the shut off valve.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2afHjjI2b3w
2. Again, this is depending on what you have going in the house.
3. You need to find out how many amps the heaters will be pulling and consider using a dedicated breaker for the heater(s).Last edited by fatnslow; 09-08-2021 at 11:44 AM.
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09-08-2021, 11:14 AM #5018
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09-08-2021, 11:20 AM #5019
Yeah, I've heard similar stories of cleats and fences ripping out. But it seems like there's gotta be some sort of system that's adequately fastened to the roof. The way our driveway is situated, there isn't a particularly convenient place to shovel / blow snow to. It'd be a whole lot nicer if the snow just stayed up there.
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09-08-2021, 12:14 PM #5020
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09-08-2021, 12:23 PM #5021Registered User
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09-08-2021, 12:37 PM #5022
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09-08-2021, 01:21 PM #5023
The quality of construction has always been mixed in this town. The two guys who framed it seemed pretty good, but the subs are always another story. I'm not sure if there even is a GC or if the owners are doing it ad hoc. It sure looks like they designed it themselves, because there are so many impractical design elements it's The Homer car of houses.
The main roof has six gables with steep pitches (naked eye guesstimate 9 or 10/12). There's a seventh gable over one of the main floor areas that sticks out of the side of the building like an addition, that has hips on its corners. The carport (which is really an outdoor living area) has a full hipped roof. And there's a Tudor swoop over the main entrance.
Needless to say, there's no practical place to put a solar panel (big what were you thinking?! on a new build in this town).
It's only two storeys, but the roof is so tall there's enough lumber for three - but hey, wood's cheap, right?
Last edited by Ted Striker; 09-08-2021 at 06:34 PM.
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09-08-2021, 01:53 PM #5024Registered User
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09-08-2021, 02:33 PM #5025
the other issue is whether you have a cold roof or not
because retaining snow when it has a heat source just beneath it can be problematic too
(i'm not helping here, sorry)
there are companies that do these retrofit installs and should provide warrantable work, but they are going to limit the liability since they didn't install the roof -- my guess is any reasonable solution may involve installing blocking in between the attic joists & lagging through a little puddle of sealant to secure the guards wherever the module hits. Attaching purely to the sheetmetal would be a non-starter for me.
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