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Thread: Tool Time

  1. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted reborn View Post
    The choices of nice tools are overwhelming for a newb like me, it's hard to figure out what's worth 10-40 bucks more for some tools and what's not worth more $$$. .
    The Garage Journal Forums. Are probably the best place to do any research before buying any tool, as their is almost always a ton of info, and user reviews on there.

  2. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    The Garage Journal Forums. Are probably the best place to do any research before buying any tool, as their is almost always a ton of info, and user reviews on there.
    I don't think I have the time to sort through those threads and see who is knowledgable or who is a newb like me - maybe it's the next level for my 'tool journey' though - after I watch all those "Which is best" videos, ha. Those things are sweet so far.

  3. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted reborn View Post
    I don't think I have the time to sort through those threads and see who is knowledgable or who is a newb like me - maybe it's the next level for my 'tool journey' though - after I watch all those "Which is best" videos, ha. Those things are sweet so far.
    To there own, but I find I can use the search function a their a hell of a lot faster than searching you tube and then watching someone that may or may not know what there yakking about and that may or may not be getting paid good $$$ for their “ reviews”.

    Then again I may just know too much about how “ content marketing “ works these days for my own good.

    On another note a few new tools arrived today.
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    Rear cog tool and a 15 mm wrench from RunWell in Japan. I picked these up specifically for working on my pump track bike and my sons bikes.

    The 15mm is very very nice and appears to be at least of the same quality as my Snapon wrenches
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    The working end is an exact match to the Snapon.
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    Handle is super comfortable too!

    We will see how they hold up to use and how long the gold platting lasts. It at least appears to be as good as the platting on my Nepros ratchets.

  4. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    To there own, but I find I can use the search function a their a hell of a lot faster than searching you tube and then watching someone that may or may not know what there yakking about and that may or may not be getting paid good $$$ for their “ reviews”.

    Then again I may just know too much about how “ content marketing “ works these days for my own good.
    but I'm talking about a specific individual on YT that I linked to, who tests everything like an engineer, not a marketer. And I know how content marketing works as much as you do most likely.

    Anyways, back to the tool porn which is more fun and thanks for all the advice here.

  5. #380
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    Alright Gunder here is one for you. I've got a set of Raceface cranks that require a 16mm socket to pull them. I felt like my chamfered socket was very insecure and going to strip the aluminum on my cranks so I used my Dremel and cut it back beyond the chamfer. Whaddya got that's better?

  6. #381
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    Tool Time

    Quote Originally Posted by John_B View Post
    Alright Gunder here is one for you. I've got a set of Raceface cranks that require a 16mm socket to pull them. I felt like my chamfered socket was very insecure and going to strip the aluminum on my cranks so I used my Dremel and cut it back beyond the chamfer. Whaddya got that's better?
    Sometimes you gotta modify a tool and nothing is wrong with that!

    16mm hex? I think the largest I’ve ever used on a bike is 14mm and that’s for my EEwing cranks.

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    Snapon and PBSwiss. The Snapon ones have less chamfering then the PBSwiss ones and you can easily press new hex inserts in/ out so easy to modify if you need to, but I haven’t ran into that issue with them. I do like the PBSWISS ones better than Snapon tho as they fit tighter tolerances and are made of better steel that seems to wear better.

  7. #382
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    I'm trying hard to resist ordering a set of Wiha torx drivers this afternoon. Had told myself I would wait a few months. But I have a bunch of bike work to do this weekend and they would be nice. Of course, they wouldn't show up till Tuesday, so it doesn't really matter for this weekend, but don't confuse me with the facts.

    Ok, going to lunch. It'll be interesting to see if I resist.

  8. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by EWG View Post
    I'm trying hard to resist ordering a set of Wiha torx drivers this afternoon. Had told myself I would wait a few months. But I have a bunch of bike work to do this weekend and they would be nice. Of course, they wouldn't show up till Tuesday, so it doesn't really matter for this weekend, but don't confuse me with the facts.

    Ok, going to lunch. It'll be interesting to see if I resist.
    They sell Wiha at lowes now, see if they are there after lunch? They probably don't have the handled version though

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wiha-Wiha-3...het/5000289431

  9. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted reborn View Post
    They sell Wiha at lowes now, see if they are there after lunch? They probably don't have the handled version though

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wiha-Wiha-3...het/5000289431
    Made it till this morning, then got frustrated with my current torx drivers and ordered the set. Shocking.

  10. #385
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    “Engineered by Wiha in Germany and manufactured by Wiha globally”. Is that typical of Wiha tools or something to watch for as they move into DIY stores like Lowes?

  11. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive_MT View Post
    “Engineered by Wiha in Germany and manufactured by Wiha globally”. Is that typical of Wiha tools or something to watch for as they move into DIY stores like Lowes?
    Their website says that 90% of their tools are still made in Germany. I think their bits, pliers and cutters are made in Vietnam. Word is the quality of the Vietnam stuff is still excellent, though I don't own any of it. I believe their screwdrivers are still made in Germany.

  12. #387
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    Speaking of which, the Wihas arrived. So far, so good.

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  13. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    Sometimes you gotta modify a tool and nothing is wrong with that!
    I think the largest I’ve ever used on a bike is 14mm and that’s for my EEwing cranks.
    .
    even your I haven't used a hex that large is a brag on some gear... lol.

    EEwing cranks. I thought only Matt Jones put those on his dream builds.
    www.dpsskis.com
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    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  14. #389
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    Is there any tool / attachment that exists for truing rotors that doesn't involve both a $300 wheel truing stand plus another $50 for an attachment?

    I've searched around a bit and only finding truing stand attachments. It seems to me like there should be something where you drop your wheel out, drop something in through the hub, and sweep an arm around with a feeler gauge to the rotor.

  15. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    Is there any tool / attachment that exists for truing rotors that doesn't involve both a $300 wheel truing stand plus another $50 for an attachment?

    I've searched around a bit and only finding truing stand attachments. It seems to me like there should be something where you drop your wheel out, drop something in through the hub, and sweep an arm around with a feeler gauge to the rotor.
    Wonder if this would work for on-bike truing:
    https://www.amazon.com/Unior-Pocket-.../dp/B00IWRS0NW

    Otherwise this used to exist:
    https://www.utahmountainbiking.com/f...krotortrue.htm
    If you could find one, you might be able to make it work with a thru-axle to QR adapter.

  16. #391
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    at its simplest leave the wheel in the bike and attach a zip tie to the frame for your reference, bend the rotor with some thing in the holes

    I sold my park stand to LHutz so I supose i could just borrow it back
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  17. #392
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    I might suck it up and get one of these: https://www.feedbacksports.com/produ...ing-stand-2-0/
    $150 but it's specifically got a slot on the feeler for checking rotors, and can check rims too. I don't have the free time to build wheels, but I do occasionally case things hard enough to need them re-trued.

  18. #393
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    I might suck it up and get one of these: https://www.feedbacksports.com/produ...ing-stand-2-0/
    $150 but it's specifically got a slot on the feeler for checking rotors, and can check rims too. I don't have the free time to build wheels, but I do occasionally case things hard enough to need them re-trued.
    For less money you can get a NOGA dial indicator holder and a used Starrett or Mitituyo indicator on Ebay / cragslist and have far greater accuracy and more flexibility.

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    Noga makes clamps in all sizes and forms, but a small one with a magnetic base is all you need for this. If you get one with a clamp on both ends, you can clamp it to the bike and do it all without taking the wheel off.

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    A dial indictor would be my preference, but a test indicator will also work.

    Now that being said, while I have the tools for checking rotors, I dont see the point. They are not that expensive, and even with all of the tools at your disposal, you are never going to get a bent one as straight as factory, so in my mind its not worth the frustration, so best to just replace. It's also something that I honestly dont remember the last time I bent one and I am always running 203 rotors front and rear even on the trail bike.

  19. #394
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    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    For less money you can get a NOGA dial indicator holder and a used Starrett or Mitituyo indicator on Ebay / cragslist and have far greater accuracy and more flexibility.

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    Noga makes clamps in all sizes and forms, but a small one with a magnetic base is all you need for this. If you get one with a clamp on both ends, you can clamp it to the bike and do it all without taking the wheel off.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    A dial indictor would be my preference, but a test indicator will also work.

    Now that being said, while I have the tools for checking rotors, I dont see the point. They are not that expensive, and even with all of the tools at your disposal, you are never going to get a bent one as straight as factory, so in my mind its not worth the frustration, so best to just replace. It's also something that I honestly dont remember the last time I bent one and I am always running 203 rotors front and rear even on the trail bike.
    I wholeheartedly disagree. I've had brand new rotors in definite need of truing (mostly Avid - current Shimano's etc. seem much better, haven't had that in a while). I run Ice Tech's (which would seem to be more rigid) and they go out of true all the time (need truing multiple times a season). Same is true for the wife's SRAM rotors, and the kid's non-ice-tech shimanos. These are all mtb's, ridden hard. Are you talking about roadie rotors? Are you mtb-ing only on paved bike path? Crazy talk, vs my experience.

    EDIT: guess not roadie rotors - 203mm would kinda be overkill, LOL

  21. #396
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    I havent really needed to true a rotor since i quit riding skinnys

    https://www.gravelcyclist.com/videos...iPv0fL0wuGS2ac

    here ^^ is a tool i have never seen or heard of, a digital chain checker !
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I havent really needed to true a rotor since i quit riding skinnys

    https://www.gravelcyclist.com/videos...iPv0fL0wuGS2ac

    here ^^ is a tool i have never seen or heard of, a digital chain checker !
    Occam’s razor tells me the standard, Park (or similar), no-moving-parts-or-batteries chain checker tool is the way to go.

    But that would be antithetical to this thread I suppose.

  23. #398
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    I just use a go-no-go park 3.2

    there is also the CC-2 which measures the chain mechanicaly

    but i posted that link purely for the porn value eh
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #399
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    Added dry ice to my toolbox.

    Freed a stuck seatpost in a steel frame completely non-destructively by strapping a couple of chunks around the seat tube.

    I wonder why more people don't try this method before breaking out the torch or resorting to cutting/damaging the post. Worked like a charm after previous attempts failed.

    Of course the dry ice is no longer in my toolbox. Got to have fun playing with the fog-machine effect though.

  25. #400
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    I was at Harbor Freight getting harbor freight things (magnetic bowl for $1.50? Why not...) and noticed this 10" Knipex Cobra Pliers knock off, which I own a smaller Knipex version and really like. This knock-off was only $20 and it's replacing a husky wrench that has no button, no lock setting, has no room for fingers in certain positions, and is way heavier. Worth it IMO.

    Supposedly you can find Knipex Pliers wrench (I own two Knipex ones thanks to this thread) knockoffs under the Icon brand at Harbor Freight and they are getting really good reviews - apparently when restocked they sell out quickly. There were none in my store.

    I read that some Knipex patents ran out recently so the market is gonna be flooded with these things. For tools I don't use every day, these knockoffs are pretty good, surprisingly so IMO. No long term data yet though.

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