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Thread: Ask the experts
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08-04-2020, 10:26 PM #1601
Possible to wear out a Shimano XT 12 speed cassette/chain in like 230ish miles? I swear my 11speed stuff lasted longer.
Slow upshifting and some slippage when hammering on the pedals today.
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08-04-2020, 10:57 PM #1602Registered User
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I would use a dab of grease in case it creaked, has anybody had a lower race creak ?
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-05-2020, 05:03 AM #1603
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08-05-2020, 08:03 AM #1604
I haven't been too stoked with shimano 12 speed chain wear. I had to replace my XTR in 350-400 miles. New chain and its all good though. The cages are pretty weak on the rear derailleur as well. I am on my third and have bent my wifes back a couple times, the first one didn't have and grease on the clutch and self destructed. As far as wear goes GX chain are about the same... I always run X0 chains and they last a million miles.
Last edited by Eluder; 08-05-2020 at 08:38 AM.
a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort
Formerly Rludes025
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08-05-2020, 08:35 AM #1605one of those sickos
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I'd be pretty shocked based on my own experience and what I've read. Did you actually check wear with a tool? Maybe if you're riding in mud all the time and never clean it....
FWIW mine now has 1300mi and still hasn't reached .5% on the new style Park CC-4. It's very dry here though, and I'm quite meticulous about cleaning and lubing.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T707A using TGR Forums mobile appride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
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08-05-2020, 08:41 AM #1606
I've got about 750 miles on new XT here in New England this year and chain and cassette are wearing well. Grease on the clutch not so good but was easy to do.
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08-05-2020, 08:41 AM #1607
I clean and lube almost every ride, but there have been a couple where I got a muddy drivetrain at like mile 7 and have to ride another 20+ miles.
I changed out the cable and housing thinking that was it. Nope. Now I'll try to clean all the pivot points on the derailleur parallelogram. It's just like a "slow" derailleur if that makes sense. Even when visibly clean. Bigger rings to smaller rings = slow and it has nothing to do with the cable tension/barrel adjustment. B screw has been checked.
SLX der and shifter FWIW.
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08-05-2020, 08:59 AM #1608Registered User
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08-05-2020, 09:03 AM #1609Registered User
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- Jan 2008
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New to mtb, but now totally hooked. I have an old Stumpjumper I want to to convert to 1x11 (or 12 I guess. ) I found a cheap Shimano m8100 groupset, can I just directly swap out the old cassette and chain ring for the new ones? I’m reasonably competent at wrenching, but totally new to bikes.
I'm taking myself to a dirty part of town, where all my troubles can't be found...
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08-05-2020, 09:20 AM #1610
My XT / XTR setup is similar to that. As best I can tell, the pivots in the parallelogram of the derailleur are sticky. I think I may have hit the derailleur on something at some point (I don't recall doing it, but there are some minor scratches on it). It's not bent, but it doesn't seem to move as smoothly as it did when it was new. Lubing the pivots helped for a bit, but I think the lube ultimately just attracted dirt and made the problem worse.
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08-05-2020, 10:14 AM #1611Registered User
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08-05-2020, 10:42 AM #1612Nothing happens now
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Why does rear shock wallow feel like.. wallow? I get that it’s moving more further in the stroke, but that low psi tire rolling off rim sensation I don’t understand.
So the world is filled with tubular entities. Food goes in one end and shit comes out the other. Sperm goes in and babies come out.
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08-05-2020, 11:10 AM #1613Registered User
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I'm taking myself to a dirty part of town, where all my troubles can't be found...
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08-05-2020, 11:16 AM #1614
It'll work fine (11 or 12), the rear derailleur is just going to hang a little low. Anything 12 speed will require you to swap to a new freehub body on the rear wheel (if possible, depends on the hub). Otherwise you're in for a new hub too. An 11 speed Shimano (or low end Sram) cassette will work with the existing wheel.
The chainring also won't swap over out of that M8100 group, you'd need to get the matching crank.
As a general thought, you'd likely be better off saving the money and buying a more modern bike though, instead of trying to upgrade that one. Things have come a long way in the last 15 years.
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08-05-2020, 11:29 AM #1615
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08-05-2020, 12:10 PM #1616Registered User
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IME going from a 2005 to a modern enduro bike everything is next generation better, brakes are better, 29 " wheels roll better/ faster/ stronger, suspension is better, 1x means design can be better due to limitations multiple chain rings cause in the in the BB, geometry is better, there is all kinds of stuff just waiting to break on a bike that is worht 500$
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-05-2020, 12:26 PM #1617
having just gone ahead and ignored all of this advice and dumped upgrade money into a POS bike, I have regrets, and you should not fall into the same trap. you pay so much more for the incremental upgrades compared to just shelling out $1800 for a cheap but decent modern bike...
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08-05-2020, 12:30 PM #1618
Hang it on the wall of the shed along with your Olin Mark 4’s.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
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08-05-2020, 12:37 PM #1619
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08-05-2020, 12:38 PM #1620
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08-05-2020, 12:43 PM #1621Registered User
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Ask the experts
Knuckledragger, so it will go beside my Cummins flowertop, but point taken...
So what specific bikes and years am I looking for under $2k (cdn), I guess more of an enduro, mostly riding Vancouver north shore, definitely more dh focussed but don’t want to hate life climbing and doing occasional xc?I'm taking myself to a dirty part of town, where all my troubles can't be found...
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08-05-2020, 12:52 PM #1622
Something used
1) 2017 or newer
2) 140 mm minimum travel on the frame (which will likely mean 150-160 on the fork). Up to around 160mm travel would be fine.
3) Sram GX or Shimano XT or better
4) condition matters, obviously
5) While there are plenty of excellent bikes from smaller manufacturers, sticking with the bigger brands might be a safer bet.
Within those criteria, there aren't really any noteworthy bikes that I would 100% avoid. Ultimately, the best option is going to be finding something that's a good deal (better parts and a bike that hasn't been abused).
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08-05-2020, 12:54 PM #1623
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08-05-2020, 01:16 PM #1624
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08-05-2020, 01:37 PM #1625
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