Rossignol FKS 180

[GBorrelli]

What is the proper way to adjust forward pressure on the Rossignol FKS 180s? I've searched around, but I can't find shit. Any help would be appreciated.

[arild]

When the heel is engaged (locked down), there is one screw on the end of each bar (this is what attaches the heel piece to the turntable). Adjust.

[otto parts]

the white tab should be between the black raised lines when correct.

[GBorrelli]

Sweet, that's exactly what I thought. My only other question is about the markings on the threaded bars, are they some sort of adjustment indicator or just for fun?

[squirrelmurphy]

they help you keep both arms adjusted to the same length

[Wes Mantooth]

You also don't want to be outside the furthest mark on the heel bars. Generally you won't be able to click in because your heel will hit the bars, but don't go outside the little notch

Count your turns so you can get the same on both wormscrews

[whiteroom]

you need to pivot the heel 90* each time you check for forward pressure, also.

[SLSki]

you need to pivot the heel 90* each time you check for forward pressure, also.

Uhhhh, the boot should be clicked into the binding when checking forward pressure, so no.

[Bill.]

Uhhhh, the boot should be clicked into the binding when checking forward pressure, so no.

You adjust with your boot in, but you always remove your boot and pop it back in to make sure. I've always done a twist before i clip back in so that everything resets.

[GBorrelli]

Alright so I got them all mounted up and adjusted. The white tab lines up perfectly with the black tabs. It's adjusted about halfway past the 2nd mark. There's no trouble getting the boot in and everything feels/looks good with the boot in. However, the bindings feel a LOT less stout once adjusted outside the 2nd mark on the bar. Like without the boot in the binding, I can shake it side to side and front to back. It just doesn't feel as though it's held as firmly in place as when it's inside the 2nd mark on the bar. Is it normal for the bindings to be this loose feeling?

[squatch]

Alright so I got them all mounted up and adjusted. The white tab lines up perfectly with the black tabs. It's adjusted about halfway past the 2nd mark. There's no trouble getting the boot in and everything feels/looks good with the boot in. However, the bindings feel a LOT less stout once adjusted outside the 2nd mark on the bar. Like without the boot in the binding, I can shake it side to side and front to back. It just doesn't feel as though it's held as firmly in place as when it's inside the 2nd mark on the bar. Is it normal for the bindings to be this loose feeling?

yes.

6789

[gisforgaper]

I could have sworn there was a post talking about how the black marks were merely a suggestion, and that the real check was to adjust forward pressure until the heel no longer rotated under moderate torque with the boot in place.

On my 18s with the fp adjusted exactly to the black marks, it didnt take much to cause a fair amount of heel motion even with the boot in. Tightening them up until they didn't move much (2-3mm side to side in the tails under say 15lbs force) seemed to clear up some pre-release I had previously, and I still pop out when necesary. Any thoughts?

[SiSt]

I could have sworn there was a post talking about how the black marks were merely a suggestion, and that the real check was to adjust forward pressure until the heel no longer rotated under moderate torque with the boot in place.

On my 18s with the fp adjusted exactly to the black marks, it didnt take much to cause a fair amount of heel motion even with the boot in. Tightening them up until they didn't move much (2-3mm side to side in the tails under say 15lbs force) seemed to clear up some pre-release I had previously, and I still pop out when necesary. Any thoughts?

Yup: http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...=snaps+smartly

[reLENTless871]

does anyone kno where i can find a paper jig for fks?

[SiSt]

does anyone kno where i can find a paper jig for fks?

Viola: Binding-Mount-Paper-Templates

[Spyderjon]

I sell a lot of Pivots mail order in the UK & these are the forward pressure instructions I send with each pair:

The extending arms have 3 knurled bands on them. The two outer bands are the upper and lower limits. The centre one is theoretically the ideal providing the binding has been mounted to your boot sole length.

Extending the arms eases off the forward pressure and shortening the arms increases it. The dildo needs to be raised (ie the boot should be in the binding) to access the no.3 pozi driver heads in the ends of the arms.

A maximum of 8mm adjustment can be made between the two outer bands so when mounting set the template length to your exact boot sole length.

The target should be to have the sloping forward pressure indicator at the rear of the base plate in line with the notches however this is often inaccurate - in fact it’s often possible to make a large adjustment in the forward pressure & the sloping indicator doesn’t even move. This is a ‘feature’ of the design!

The best method/test is to set the forward pressure so that when the heel piece lever is slowly raised to half-way with the boot installed it then it ‘snaps’ up.

As a further check, & with the boot in the binding, grab the dildo part and rotate/pivot it. Basically you want to tighten it (the forward pressure) up until you no longer get significant rotation/play when doing this.

[Dadoffrosty]

I have just installed my Pivot Look bindings and have noted the following that may be of interest.
I installed according to the boot length which in my case is 348mm. After install complete I noted that the indicator extends past the indicator bar on the base of the binding by approximately 1.5 mm. No amount of adjustment of the arms makes any difference to this adjustment. After careful observation of the binding when the boot is inserted, I noted that basically the amount of movement of the binding appears to be governed by the actual mounting position of the bindings. So in my case, on the assumption that the bindings are in the correctly indicated position of 348mm according to the template that comes with the binding, either the template is wrong, the boot is not 348mm ( going to check this) or the indicator is wrong. The adjustment of the two arms, once the pivot piece makes contact will influence the amount of forward pressure exerted by the rear binding, but doesn't seem to have any influence on the indicator position. Having said all this, it seems the adjustment needs to be a subjective observation of this amount of free play of the turntable under the heel as indicated by others. Any comments on what I have discussed and to point out if I am wrong in any of this would be welcome.

I sell a lot of Pivots mail order in the UK & these are the forward pressure instructions I send with each pair:

The extending arms have 3 knurled bands on them. The two outer bands are the upper and lower limits. The centre one is theoretically the ideal providing the binding has been mounted to your boot sole length.

Extending the arms eases off the forward pressure and shortening the arms increases it. The dildo needs to be raised (ie the boot should be in the binding) to access the no.3 pozi driver heads in the ends of the arms.

A maximum of 8mm adjustment can be made between the two outer bands so when mounting set the template length to your exact boot sole length.

The target should be to have the sloping forward pressure indicator at the rear of the base plate in line with the notches however this is often inaccurate - in fact it’s often possible to make a large adjustment in the forward pressure & the sloping indicator doesn’t even move. This is a ‘feature’ of the design!

The best method/test is to set the forward pressure so that when the heel piece lever is slowly raised to half-way with the boot installed it then it ‘snaps’ up.

As a further check, & with the boot in the binding, grab the dildo part and rotate/pivot it. Basically you want to tighten it (the forward pressure) up until you no longer get significant rotation/play when doing this.

[auvgeek]

^^Did you even read the post you quoted? Specifically this part:

The target should be to have the sloping forward pressure indicator at the rear of the base plate in line with the notches however this is often inaccurate - in fact it’s often possible to make a large adjustment in the forward pressure & the sloping indicator doesn’t even move.

Just adjust the fwd pressure as the spyderjon says. Really, I suspect it should higher than most DIY-ers suspect (including me when I first mounted them).

[DoWork]

Haha yeah don't go by the tabs. Might as well adjust them by star position in the night sky, as those things could have you cranking all day and never move.

I always set them up so that when you're clicking the heel in, the dildo gets halfway up before it snaps the rest of the way up and locks the heel in. It's a kind of inexact science, but hell, you're using a retention heel so that's pretty much the name of the game anyways. Of course, check your AFD pressure like you normally would and you should be just fine.

If this is too much or the uncertainty bothers you, bring it to a shop so they can do the exact same thing I just described. Also, there's ridged collars on both heel masts so use that visual cue AND counting turns to ensure pressure is even right -> left.

[whyturn]

Rossi/Look binding manual is top in teh search link
http://www.google.com/search?q=rossi...w=1920&bih=928

[alTAos]

I have just installed my Pivot Look bindings and have noted the following that may be of interest.
I installed according to the boot length which in my case is 348mm...

three forty WHAT?

holy shit

you're in the wrong sport, send me the bindings and go find a hoop.