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Thread: Ask the experts
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09-15-2021, 06:25 PM #6051Registered User
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you can build wheels without a stand easy enough, ive never used a stand during initial lacing and have built a dozen or so wheels
figuring out correct spoke length can be a pain depending on hub/rim
putting spokes into pattern correctly can be frustrating but isnt actually hard
bringing up to tension while keeping true isnt difficult but will test your patience
if you have the time and interest give it a go, probably a local who can help out if needed, and lbs can do the final tension and true if you dont feel confident
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09-15-2021, 06:44 PM #6052Registered User
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a couple Q's for the spandex experts in here...
1. i have a 1989 allez epic dura ace, like this
finally managed to wear out the stock drivetrain using it on the trainer in mostly a single gear
thus it needs new ring/cassette/chain
initial research is telling me this isnt a normal 7spd cassette style, and the rings are biopace...
what am i looking for in replacement parts?
2. my old sidi dominator IIIs are about dead
ive replaced buckles/velcro but the traction lugs have all fallen off and the sole just isnt as stiff as it used to be so im getting foot cramps on the trainer, which is my only use for these shoes
what are some good shoes for the trainer?
spd pedals, narrow low volume foot, cheaper the better, or should i just bite the bullet and get a new pair of sidis?
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09-15-2021, 07:19 PM #6053
Get a Peloton
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09-15-2021, 08:23 PM #6054Registered User
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I picked up a park wheel truing stand pretty cheap 20 yars go when a bike store went under and never used it much
i think you can find stands pretty cheap on line, shop bro said to make sure it will also handle 27.5/ 29/ FAT rimsLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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09-15-2021, 08:40 PM #6055
Wheelbuilding? Lots and lots of discussions in here about it. Everyone's got their take. It's definitely doable.
It's one of the most gratifying things you can do wrenching bikes. More hobby than practicality though. It'll take you many many more hours to do than a shop, or you could put in a few hours of overtime at work to offset the price of paying a shop and still come out ahead financially and time wise. But then you wouldn't get the experience.
Get the Roger Musson eBook for like $15 bucks and follow it like you'd follow the instructions building a model plane. It's not art, it's not wizardry. It's just a straight forward, easy to follow process.
Buddy of mine used an old trainer as a stand and a shelf bracket as a truing guide. Cardboard or plywood as dishing guide.
Don't buy a stand until you're convinced it'll be a hobby.However many are in a shit ton.
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09-15-2021, 08:41 PM #6056
Ask the experts
Chainrings will be 5 bolt 130bcd, just get 53/39.
Any 7spd old school road cassette you can find.
EDIT: oops, missed the UG chain. Teledad is right, but maybe double check if the freehub has internal threads - then I think you could get a regular 7 spd cassette on it.
I’ll see if we’ve got any UG cassettes in the stash tmrw.
7sp chain = 6/7/8sp chain
Email me joeATDurangocycleryDOTCOm if ya want. We’ve probably got some lightly used stuff that’ll work. At least the cassette, but probably rings too.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsLast edited by joetron; 09-15-2021 at 11:52 PM.
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09-15-2021, 08:48 PM #6057Registered User
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Yeah, Dura-Ace 7-speed cassettes are incompatible with pretty much everything (including other Shimano 7-speed cassettes) and are basically impossible to find.
Some options:
- Depending on how worn the cogs are, you might get a little more life by opening up the cassette and rotating the cogs. These use Uniglide cogs which are symmetric.
- Find/buy a cheap rear wheel with 126mm spacing that takes a freewheel. Get a new 7-speed Sunrace freewheel and you're set.
- Get a wheel with an 8-speed cassette and put the shifters in friction mode or swap them out for 8-speed SIS. You'll need to spread the chainstays 4mm to fit the hub - that might be a problem with CF chainstays though.
- Try to find replacement Uniglide cogs - but these are basically impossible to find or silly expensive if you can.
I'd probably pick the first or second option for a trainer bike, particularly with an 80's CF frame.
For the chainrings, do you really want Biopace? Regular (round) 130 BCD rings will work fine on the same cranks. But there are Biopace rings on ebay if you really want one.
For chains, any 8 speed chain will work even with a 7 speed cassette or freewheel.
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09-15-2021, 08:50 PM #6058Registered User
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09-15-2021, 09:06 PM #6059
Heh, thanks guys. You have more faith in me than I did lol. I think I'll take this on. I sincerely appreciate the encouragement and advice.
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09-15-2021, 09:12 PM #6060
Ask the experts
I love building wheels. It’s like waxing skis. Get a stand. I always used Brandt’s book. It’s a great hobby.
I actually have a 7 speed dura ace cassette but unfortunately I’m saving it for a 1986 Clio rebuild.
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09-15-2021, 09:50 PM #6061Registered User
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Here’s what good old Sheldon Brown had to say about your Dura Ace Uniglide Cassette.
“What To Do With An Old Dura-Ace 7- or 8-speed Uniglide Hub
Uniglide cassettes are no longer available. If you've got a Dura-Ace Uniglide hub and need a new cassette, these are your options:
Cheapest: Uniglide sprockets are basically symmetrical, so if you have a worn-out cassette, you can flip the individual sprockets over. This will let you use the un-worn sides of the teeth.
This doesn't work for the smallest (threaded) sprocket, but does work for all of the others.”
Moderate: Hyperglide sprockets have one wider spline where they fit onto the Freehub body, as you can see above. If you grind this wide spline off, you can use any current Hyperglide sprockets or complete cassette, except, again for the smallest sprocket, which must be the special Dura-Ace threaded type.
Best:You can replace the Freehub body with an 8-9-10 speed Hyperglide unit as described below.
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09-15-2021, 10:01 PM #6062Registered User
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09-17-2021, 09:56 AM #6063
anyone else suffered tennis elbow and struggled to ride. mines murder
Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile appi dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum
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09-17-2021, 10:41 AM #6064Registered User
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I don't play tennis but i've had tennis elbow 5 times from paddling, carpenters who swing hammers or drywallers also get it, when its bad try one of those bands that wrap just below the elbow & take IBU , other wise it would just go away in the off season but just google treatment
I duno how it might pertain to your situation but what seemed to cause tennis elbow for me was having to constantly grip the paddle shaft as opposed to it just being in my hand , ever since I went smaller blade/ small shaft/ shorter paddle 15 yars ago I havent had an issueLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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09-17-2021, 11:14 AM #6065
I have been dealing with tennis elbow from riding for the last few years, always seemed to creep in mid July and fade away in late November. Moved to year round biking and it got real bad by the first week of January.
Stretching and KT tape gave minimal relief. Best results came from using Theraband Flexbars daily, and doing forearm strength exercises. It got way better although I'm still taking it easy for rotator cuff reasons..."Just send it you pussy."
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09-17-2021, 12:01 PM #6066Registered User
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If you got small hands try using a small diameter grip to help with tennis elbow
according to the following info I am right on the cusp of either size at 6.5"
" Shaft Diameter: Choosing the proper shaft size (diameter of the shaft) for your hands assures a more comfortable experience on the water. You'll maintain a lighter grip for better technique, allowing better control and reduced fatigue. Measure your hand size by placing a ruler at the base of your hand (at the joint of your wrist) and measuring to the tip of your middle finger. If you measure longer than 6.5" Werner suggests the standard shaft. Smaller, go to Werner's small diameter shaft. If you are on the line, it is suggested that you come into the Paddle Sports Center and try both to see for yourself. Paddlers with shorter, thicker fingers also gravitate to small shaft. "
from Werner ^^ again its paddling related but some info to consider and it did work for me,
Werner make simply ze best kayak paddles IMELee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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09-17-2021, 01:27 PM #6067
Ive gone back to thin push on grips and its made a big difference in forearm pump. Long downhills use to get scary near the end and not fun. No plaumying on the bike at all just survival. Glued on renthal push ons. Less than half the price of lock ons. No idea why i stayed with lock ons for so long. Ultra thin oakley bmx grips were my faves for years. Probably impossible to find those though
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09-17-2021, 01:33 PM #6068
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09-17-2021, 01:37 PM #6069Registered User
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09-17-2021, 01:51 PM #6070
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09-17-2021, 02:06 PM #6071Registered User
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somebody could probably write an app where you chose grip size by just taking a picture of your penis
which you probably already haveLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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09-17-2021, 02:19 PM #6072
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09-17-2021, 02:26 PM #6073
Push ons are still thinner. A little bit goes a long way for comfort. Lock ons do offer that convenience but the push ons are so cheap that i can just throw another one or 2 on if for some reason i have to pull a lever or shifter. The push ons are still cheaper but if for some reason i have to do multiple swaps and tgey end up more than lock ons its still a small price to pay. Besides, ive come to the conclusion that the thinnest possible is a necessity. Anyone has a thinner grippy push on thats thinner thsn the renthals im all ears
Worth a try if you think they may work for you. If not you still have the lock ons. I used tge renthat grip glue, $7 a tube will do multiple pairs. I put them on both bikes and still lots left but not sure on shrlf life. Every order i throw in grips, brake pads , maybe a chsin etc
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09-17-2021, 02:31 PM #6074Registered User
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09-17-2021, 02:34 PM #6075
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