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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #8601
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    Feb 2013
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    2,620
    What's the current recommendation for an affordable tire plug kit?

  2. #8602
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    Feb 2012
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    462
    Quote Originally Posted by John_B View Post
    What's the current recommendation for an affordable tire plug kit?
    The plastic dynaplug ultralite is pretty sweet for $20

  3. #8603
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    Oct 2010
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    Coils.

    Ripmo AF with JadeX. ~19% progressivity.

    Multiple calculators put me on ~550lb spring and that’s what I have on there-bike feels glued to the trail, the rear end feels fantastic for trail riding and rough stuff.

    But it doesn’t feel great jumping. Almost like it’s soaking up the lip rather than springing off it. Rebound is full open.

    Some folks are saying to add 10-15% spring weight for drops and jumps, does this sound right? Considering a 600 to swap into but don’t really want to drop another $100+ if I’m not reading things right.

  4. #8604
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    Feb 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    Coils.

    Ripmo AF with JadeX. ~19% progressivity.

    Multiple calculators put me on ~550lb spring and that’s what I have on there-bike feels glued to the trail, the rear end feels fantastic for trail riding and rough stuff.

    But it doesn’t feel great jumping. Almost like it’s soaking up the lip rather than springing off it. Rebound is full open.

    Some folks are saying to add 10-15% spring weight for drops and jumps, does this sound right? Considering a 600 to swap into but don’t really want to drop another $100+ if I’m not reading things right.
    Try more LSC first

  5. #8605
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    Jul 2005
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    Got the Outbound Trail Evo light yesterday. The inside diameter of the aluminum mount is very sharp / might have a little burr.

    This is going onto carbon bars. Should I sand / lightly file that or not worry?

  6. #8606
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    1,951

    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by XtrPickels View Post
    Got the Outbound Trail Evo light yesterday. The inside diameter of the aluminum mount is very sharp / might have a little burr.

    This is going onto carbon bars. Should I sand / lightly file that or not worry?
    Small wrap of heli tape?

    Quote Originally Posted by MegaStoke View Post
    Try more LSC first
    Thanks! somehow I missed this in the manual even though it’s spelled out. I incorrectly assumed full open LSC would lead to more spring back but I didn’t realize it would also take away the pump support you need for jumping.

  7. #8607
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    Sep 2005
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    Converting an old mountain bike into a bike path/gravel/townie/backup mt bike. Because of the multiple uses, looking for SPD/flat pedals. The more inexpensive the better, so long as it works well. I can accept a little weight penalty given the expected uses.

    This from Venzo (never heard of them but decent reviews): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5J9VGY/
    This from Shimano (more $ than I want to spend if possible): https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-clipl...dp/B000NORMU4/

    Are there other better options? Should I just stick with a name brand like Shimano? Anything (products or thoughts) I'm not considering?
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy

  8. #8608
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    These guys still say a code rsc will stop you quicker than a saint (or any other shimano brake):

    https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/

    Makes me really want to try some trick stuffs though.
    I want to know what the hell their test methodology was, because a lot of those results make very little sense based on my experiences with those brakes.

    There's also a lot of nonsense in their writeups, including citing the Hope E4 as having 4 16mm pistons in one place (correct) and then saying that the E4 has 2 16s and 2 14s (wrong), with the V4 having 4 16s (also wrong) elsewhere.

  9. #8609
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    Converting an old mountain bike into a bike path/gravel/townie/backup mt bike. Because of the multiple uses, looking for SPD/flat pedals. The more inexpensive the better, so long as it works well. I can accept a little weight penalty given the expected uses.

    This from Venzo (never heard of them but decent reviews): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5J9VGY/
    This from Shimano (more $ than I want to spend if possible): https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-clipl...dp/B000NORMU4/

    Are there other better options? Should I just stick with a name brand like Shimano? Anything (products or thoughts) I'm not considering?
    The Shimano EH500
    https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/produ.../PD-EH500.html
    is the best flat/SPD combo pedal.

    But if you want cheap just buy some SPD adapters to click into and old pair of double sided SPDs you have lying around:
    https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SPD-P...08277999&psc=1

  10. #8610
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    If I had a spare pair of SPDs lying around I would just use them and not bother looking to buy pedals, lol.
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy

  11. #8611
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    I want to know what the hell their test methodology was, because a lot of those results make very little sense based on my experiences with those brakes.

    There's also a lot of nonsense in their writeups, including citing the Hope E4 as having 4 16mm pistons in one place (correct) and then saying that the E4 has 2 16s and 2 14s (wrong), with the V4 having 4 16s (also wrong) elsewhere.
    Yeah, no idea. I feel like brake testing is really hard to do consistently, because any dyno test I see is all over the board.

    Mostly I think it's hard to quantify modulation. Sram's power comes on gradually and builds with more lever pressure. Shimanos power comes on quickly but then doesn't really build that much. Both are good, but in different situations. Not sure how to quantify that effectively with a dyno test.

  12. #8612
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Yeah, no idea. I feel like brake testing is really hard to do consistently, because any dyno test I see is all over the board.

    Mostly I think it's hard to quantify modulation. Sram's power comes on gradually and builds with more lever pressure. Shimanos power comes on quickly but then doesn't really build that much. Both are good, but in different situations. Not sure how to quantify that effectively with a dyno test.
    Totally, it's a hard thing to do well. I'm just very suspect of that test, based on having tried a whole lot of those brakes, and how little their results line up with my experience.

  13. #8613
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    Oct 2003
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    New wheelset, DT240 MS 148x12, put my XT 10-51 on it, and shifting is all off vs the DT350 MS on the other wheelset, almost like the the cassette isn't all the way flush to the hub, except it appears to be so.

    Mech required moving both high and low limit, barrel adjust out all tension, still feels like there is too much tension, and if I tighten the rear axle all the way there is cassette drag on the stay that can be felt when pedaling (but wheel spins with no friction).

    What is wrong?
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  14. #8614
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    LA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    If I had a spare pair of SPDs lying around I would just use them and not bother looking to buy pedals, lol.
    You want a pair? I've got a drawer with several 20-year old SPD pairs (Wellgo & Ritchey, mostly) that have collected dust since I made the switch to Time ATACs long ago. Yours for the cost of shipping.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #8615
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Totally, it's a hard thing to do well. I'm just very suspect of that test, based on having tried a whole lot of those brakes, and how little their results line up with my experience.
    I also just think lab conditions are different than real world conditions. One of their tests that they put some emphasis on is a steady deceleration from 45kph to 0 with constant pressure at the lever. While that's a decent test and fairly repeatable in a lab setting, it's realistically not something that probably happens in the real world all that often. They seemed to indicate that heat build up had a pretty significant impact on brake performance, and I would imagine quantifying the impact of heat on the system in a real world setting is tough.

    I don't really doubt their results. I just doubt how applicable those are to all the nuances of how real world use actually happens.

  16. #8616
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    Sep 2004
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    LV-426
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    21,123
    How's Specialized with tire warranty?

    Mounted a new Purgatory 2.6 yesterday on a new wheel (1 ride), it seated properly all around the bead. On Mrs C's new Ripley, on an Ibis Blackbird rim. Left it sitting on the bike in the workstand, occasionally spin the tire when I walk by. Zero rides on this tire. Sitting at maybe 30psi.

    Today while wrenching on the truck, tire blew off the rim and sprayed sealant all over. Remounted and tried airing up, it blew off immediately. It remounted way too easily so I expect the bead is damaged.

    Bought it from Performance Bike online, and have a message in to them. Wondering how, warranty works on tires. I've never warrantied a tire - and never had a new one blow off before.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  17. #8617
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    May 2008
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    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
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    What kind of fuckery is this? I pulled the crankset like 30ish miles ago. 8 miles into my ride today and I look down and see a big gap on the spindle non-drive side...did I break and lose a spacer? The arm is torqued on there to spec and not loose or backed out. There is no spacer on the drive side.

  18. #8618
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    Sep 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by NuMexJoe View Post
    You want a pair? I've got a drawer with several 20-year old SPD pairs (Wellgo & Ritchey, mostly) that have collected dust since I made the switch to Time ATACs long ago. Yours for the cost of shipping.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You should definitely take the Ritcheys and then report back about how many times you crater onto your side from a complete stop when the things hold on like a pipe clamp.

    Video would be nice for us. Entertainment value and all.

  19. #8619
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    Converting an old mountain bike into a bike path/gravel/townie/backup mt bike. Because of the multiple uses, looking for SPD/flat pedals. The more inexpensive the better, so long as it works well. I can accept a little weight penalty given the expected uses.

    This from Venzo (never heard of them but decent reviews): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5J9VGY/
    This from Shimano (more $ than I want to spend if possible): https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-clipl...dp/B000NORMU4/

    Are there other better options? Should I just stick with a name brand like Shimano? Anything (products or thoughts) I'm not considering?
    More money than you want to spend but I have Shimano T8000s on my townie. Real XT spd on one side, real aluminum flat pedal with replaceable pins on the other. Neutral weighted (some of the other combo pedals are weighted to spin to the clip side or flat side)

    https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ.../PD-T8000.html


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
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  20. #8620
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    Jan 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    I also just think lab conditions are different than real world conditions. One of their tests that they put some emphasis on is a steady deceleration from 45kph to 0 with constant pressure at the lever. While that's a decent test and fairly repeatable in a lab setting, it's realistically not something that probably happens in the real world all that often. They seemed to indicate that heat build up had a pretty significant impact on brake performance, and I would imagine quantifying the impact of heat on the system in a real world setting is tough.

    I don't really doubt their results. I just doubt how applicable those are to all the nuances of how real world use actually happens.
    That's kind of what I mean though. Like, I don't doubt that they collected data that says what they reported. I just don't think what they're tested is relevant to the real world. A well designed lab test absolutely can be representative, but achieving "well designed" is hard.

  21. #8621
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    What kind of fuckery is this? I pulled the crankset like 30ish miles ago. 8 miles into my ride today and I look down and see a big gap on the spindle non-drive side...did I break and lose a spacer? The arm is torqued on there to spec and not loose or backed out. There is no spacer on the drive side.
    need more info, they look like 8120s?
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  22. #8622
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    May 2008
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    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eluder View Post
    need more info, they look like 8120s?
    Shimano XT 12-speed on GG Gnarvana. Assuming I somehow lost a spacer by either it breaking or somehow losing one when I pulled the cranks which side do I put the spacers on? I feel like when I pulled the cranks there were two on the non-drive side and now only one?!

    Edit to add: So I think I need one on each side of the BB and I think maybe the one on the drive side cracked and fell off somehow.

  23. #8623
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    Oct 2008
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    Look at the back of the drive side crank arm by the pedal hole and it will tell you the exact model, this will tell us how many spacers you are suppose to have.

    https://dassets.shimano.com/content/...8120-4558B.pdf

    it is more likely it fell off during installation than broke so look around where did the deed.

    the "rings" in this diagram are just orings that are part of the spacer.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  24. #8624
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
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    Quote Originally Posted by summit View Post
    New wheelset, DT240 MS 148x12, put my XT 10-51 on it, and shifting is all off vs the DT350 MS on the other wheelset, almost like the the cassette isn't all the way flush to the hub, except it appears to be so.

    Mech required moving both high and low limit, barrel adjust out all tension, still feels like there is too much tension, and if I tighten the rear axle all the way there is cassette drag on the stay that can be felt when pedaling (but wheel spins with no friction).

    What is wrong?
    Do they have the same offset?
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  25. #8625
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    Jan 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    I also just think lab conditions are different than real world conditions. One of their tests that they put some emphasis on is a steady deceleration from 45kph to 0 with constant pressure at the lever. While that's a decent test and fairly repeatable in a lab setting, it's realistically not something that probably happens in the real world all that often. They seemed to indicate that heat build up had a pretty significant impact on brake performance, and I would imagine quantifying the impact of heat on the system in a real world setting is tough.

    I don't really doubt their results. I just doubt how applicable those are to all the nuances of how real world use actually happens.
    Only thing I'll say about a test like that, while it doesn't simulate riding your brakes on a steep decent constantly, or long stops coming up to a trail crossing or whatever, what it may do is answer some variable in the equation that you all think about. More of an empirical test than anything. How long to stop from X speed with 4N of force applied to the brake lever... I don't know if they did a series or whatever to develop any equations, but I could see that being part of a process.
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

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