Results 26 to 50 of 90
Thread: Remounting in the same holes.
-
12-25-2020, 12:23 PM #26Registered User
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Posts
- 3,230
Remounting in the same holes.
Checking in for collective wisdom. I’ve been reading and following along this thread and a few others.
I picked up a pair of used skis with pivots taken off. I’m putting a new pair on and plan to use the same holes.
Seems to me the best course of action is to Dremel off or counter sink the volcanos ive got currently then very gently hand screw in with wood glue trying to feel thread engagement in the existing holes.
If I really screw the pooch (intended) I should use inserts for a remount. Not the worst outcome since I may want to CAST the front four for toes at some point. For now though I plan on just mounting my own fucking skis so they’re ready and seeing what happens with this fucked up season.
Collective thoughts? Pics and it did happen:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
12-25-2020, 12:26 PM #27
Yep remove the volcanos then just screw them in like normal with your adhesive of choice (I personally use marine epoxy, but wood glue is fine).
If you strip a hole, a helicoil would be the normal fix, but inserts also work if you want to go that route.
-
12-25-2020, 04:02 PM #28Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
- Posts
- 795
Did this yesterday.
Voille ski, no metal. Wood glue and snugged them up pretty tight. Maybe not as much as if it was a first mount, but those are eventually getting inserts.
One option is to do the above with good epoxy.
Another option is to crank them down just as though it was a first mount, then deal with spinners appropriately.
-
12-25-2020, 05:20 PM #29
thanks for the tips. mounted two pair a few days ago and all went well. used roo glue in the end. no spinners. torque screwdriver is indeed overkill.
skied one pair yesterday and didn't die.
as a wise man once said, "it ain't rocket surgery".
-
12-25-2020, 05:29 PM #30Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2005
- Location
- Vinyl Valley
- Posts
- 1,796
-
12-25-2020, 09:14 PM #31Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 30,809
I always use slow set for any mount
using the same holes find the threads as above, use slow set and possibly the FG if it the hole is fucked up
tighten the screws down medium-ish, after the epoxy has cured the next day you can crank them down hard
OR since you have made the new threads in the ski you can even take the screws out and slather on a little more epoxy at that point, crank em down hardLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
12-25-2020, 10:51 PM #32
-
12-26-2020, 07:35 AM #33Registered User
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Posts
- 3,230
Thanks. What HAB and others said above makes sense.
I’m always reticent to do anything when it comes to working on my bike, mounting my skis etc. I am always paranoid I will miss a secret critical step then end up having to fix my fuck ups.
It must stem from failing out of engineering at college.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
12-26-2020, 08:13 AM #34Banned
- Join Date
- Oct 2003
- Location
- In Your Wife
- Posts
- 8,291
I hope it's been mentioned but it's worth repeating: NEVER, EVER USE A DRILL TO INSTALL BINDING SCREWS. You always and only do them with a screwdriver. Once the holes are in the ski, PUT THE FUCKING DRILL AWAY!
Back to your regularly scheduled programming.
-
12-26-2020, 10:21 AM #35Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Posts
- 1,943
-
12-26-2020, 01:47 PM #36Gel-powered Tech bindings
- Join Date
- Dec 2004
- Location
- Amherst, Mass.
- Posts
- 4,684
Just say No to any water-based glue!
For (far too many) years I used woodworking glue, since ski binding glue is similar, and ski companies must know what's best, right?
Then I finally listened to the TGR posters, especially the formulation of, "Wonder who put in the water that made your binding screws all rusty? You did. With your water-based glue."
Sure enough, since switching to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Hous...dp/B07X57XTD3/
... and sometimes instead using this when I really need max retention:
https://www.amazon.com/WEST-SYSTEM-f...dp/B002IZFPQE/
... I have never have a binding screw be removed with any rust.
As for remounting, getting rid of the volcanoes, I just use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-21-11...dp/B00002X1ZH/
... and if it's a ski that lacks an internal binding retention plate, then I'll use the epoxy instead of regular glue.
And also stand by with the helicoil kit, since with enough binding screw installations, removals, and re-installations, eventually the hole threads are going to strip.Mo' skimo here: NE Rando Race Series
-
12-26-2020, 01:48 PM #37Gel-powered Tech bindings
- Join Date
- Dec 2004
- Location
- Amherst, Mass.
- Posts
- 4,684
Mo' skimo here: NE Rando Race Series
-
12-26-2020, 03:11 PM #38Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 30,809
well I use epoxy becuz it will rebuild the screw holes and I know it does cuz a day later i can crank screws down hard in a spun hole to which i have added the chopped FG
the thing is I can only tighten a spinner down so far before it spins which is also not really tight enough SO I tighten a screw down until its about to spin let it cure and crank it down hard the next day
if I was really worried about breaking the seal i could just take the screws out to add more slowset and crank em down hard at that point
I have been doing this for about 20 years and so far 100% sucess, i got nothing against helicoils never tried it, i don't have one, don't wana pay some stoner to do a helicoil at a shop when i can get stoned and do it myself with slow set & FG
when i have to fix something i look at what I got laying around which is how I discovered BBQ sqewers in the cutlery drawer and cut them up to fill binding holesLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
12-26-2020, 05:04 PM #39
I'm going to question this a bit.
If the threads are already cut and you put glue in the hole like you should (acts as lube), the screw should go into the hole very easily, PROVIDING you didn't cross thread.
Make sure your going into the old threads and then it should only take fairly light torque and you'll feel the screw stop at the bottom. Confirm you did it correctly if the binding is flush with the ski.
This is NOT the same force required to cut new threads in a new mount. If you go to hard you are likely to get a spinner.
Sent from my SM-A505W using TapatalkGoal: ski in the 2018/19 season
-
12-28-2020, 03:06 PM #40
I have done dozens of mounts and I prefer to start all the screws with a cordless drill and the torque limiter set low. Its just so much faster than doing them by hand. I always do the final tightening by hand. Certainly there's nothing wrong with doing it the whole way by hand, but if you know what you're doing you can use a drill very successfully. I've never stripped a hole or had a spinner in the last ~20 years.
-
12-28-2020, 03:11 PM #41
Re: Mtnwriter,
I would avoid the dremel. You honestly probably don't even need to remove the volcanoes but lots of people feel good by doing it. Alpine bindings are so accommodating I'm not sure it matters (tech bindings are more sensitive). The volcanoes can be effectively removed with:
-razor blade - this works better on some topsheets than others. Praxis topsheets are so durable I don't use it much on them.
-counter sink - kiss the holes with an 82deg or 90deg countersink on a drill is the fastest and easiest way
-panzer or other file - this works well, it's how I shave down plugs in old holes and it removes any volcanoes at the same time.
-
12-28-2020, 03:23 PM #42Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 30,809
its not net faster when fixing the fuckups is taken into account, some of these people are fucking dentists and they should not be allowed to use power tools for any part of mounting a ski binding
but upon 2nd thot what you can't tell using a drill is how much resistance the screw has going into the hole which might make the difference between stopping before a screw spins or notLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
12-28-2020, 03:36 PM #43Registered User
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Posts
- 3,230
Or drilling teeth. That needs to be done all by hand.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
12-28-2020, 03:48 PM #44Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 30,809
well obviously the inference would be they know how to drill teeth
skis not so much
the dentist thing is a running jokeLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
12-28-2020, 07:17 PM #45
-
12-30-2020, 06:48 AM #46Banned
- Join Date
- Oct 2003
- Location
- In Your Wife
- Posts
- 8,291
-
12-30-2020, 08:43 AM #47
Set the clutch at 13, no spinners
crab in my shoe mouth
-
12-30-2020, 09:02 AM #48
I use a drill with a clutch to start the screws, speed set to low and clutch low... but I don't even go all the way until the clutch engages.
I do it mostly because I feel like it's easier to start the screws more vertically with constant force held in one direction.
I've had spinners but never from using a drill.
Sent from my SM-A505W using TapatalkGoal: ski in the 2018/19 season
-
12-31-2020, 02:53 PM #49
I have done this exact thing many times and never had an issue. I usually use a panzer file to shave down the volcanoes (not really even that necessary to get rid of them) and then gently feel the screw into the existing threads by spinning backwards until it sets in like you would do with a cross-threaded machine screw or something similar. Use whatever glue you like for mounting bindings and epoxy if it feels loose.
The only thing I try to avoid is doing this multiple times in the same set of holes. I have no idea if this is backed by any data or validity but I usually feel that if the bindings have come off once and gone back in they shouldn't do it again in the same holes. I've only made an exception to that once with a pair of dynafits that don't get pushed very hard and they're still going strong, so who knows
-
12-31-2020, 03:14 PM #50Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 30,809
I'm wondering how " feels loose "feels so that it would need epoxy ?
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Similar Threads
-
Remounting in existing holes
By bagtagley in forum Tech TalkReplies: 4Last Post: 03-13-2006, 09:55 AM -
Remounting in same holes
By davep in forum Tech TalkReplies: 12Last Post: 02-22-2006, 04:18 PM -
Paging Techs: Help ID Binding Holes
By Shin-to-Win in forum Tech TalkReplies: 5Last Post: 12-29-2004, 05:45 PM -
POO HOLES POO HOLES POO HOLES!!!!!
By iceman in forum TGR Forum ArchivesReplies: 16Last Post: 10-28-2004, 02:11 PM -
Remounting in old plugged holes?
By seldon in forum Tech TalkReplies: 9Last Post: 10-23-2004, 01:32 PM
Bookmarks