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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #326
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    Terrible!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using TGR Forums mobile app
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

  2. #327
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    Irene's, Exum and CMC? Nice.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  3. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    Irene's, Exum and CMC? Nice.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Good eye. Theres a personal day of cragging the Bat Attack Crack in there as well.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using TGR Forums mobile app
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

  4. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by _Aaron_ View Post
    Good eye. Theres a personal day of cragging the Bat Attack Crack in there as well.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using TGR Forums mobile app
    Ah Bat Attack, that's the one I couldn't place, I've never heard of it. I had wondered if it was the roof on the south buttress of Moran because I've never seen that one in person.

    Edit: just checked out Bat Attack Crack on mountainproject. Damn, too stout for me at 5.11! Strong work.

  5. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    Ah Bat Attack, that's the one I couldn't place, I've never heard of it. I had wondered if it was the roof on the south buttress of Moran because I've never seen that one in person.
    Man I wish it was. Ive still never gotten out that way. One of these days...

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using TGR Forums mobile app
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

  6. #331
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    Turns out there's pretty good climbing in Yosemite. Who knew?

  7. #332
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    Getting to the top of pitch 3 at arabesque in Val David. Limitless 5.fun options 5.4-9 first climbed in the early 40s.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  8. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKbruin View Post
    Turns out there's pretty good climbing in Yosemite. Who knew?
    Never done the Eichorn, but have done Cathedral a couple of times. Looks like fun.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  9. #334
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    this may not provide too much stoke for some of you guys but I was beyond pumped (literally and figuratively) to get out some some real rock for the first time.



    Checked out a spot in BCC called Salt Lake Slips. Fun zone, did a few 5.6 - 5.8 climbs. Cannot wait to go again. If anyone around SLC wants to get out on some mellower stuff, I'm keen to learn and know the basics. I'll bring the beer.

  10. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    Ah Bat Attack, that's the one I couldn't place, I've never heard of it. I had wondered if it was the roof on the south buttress of Moran because I've never seen that one in person.
    This the pitch you're talking about? We aided through this because we were too sketched to try and free the 5.11...had to bail later in the day because it got too late on us. Awesome rock though.
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  11. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post


    Getting to the top of pitch 3 at arabesque in Val David. Limitless 5.fun options 5.4-9 first climbed in the early 40s.
    Sweet. One of my favorite climbs up there.

    Dfinn- congrats on getting out on real rock. Much more fun.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using TGR Forums mobile app

  12. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahman View Post
    This the pitch you're talking about?
    Yep, that's the one. Badass.

  13. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    this may not provide too much stoke for some of you guys but I was beyond pumped (literally and figuratively) to get out some some real rock for the first time.



    Checked out a spot in BCC called Salt Lake Slips. Fun zone, did a few 5.6 - 5.8 climbs. Cannot wait to go again. If anyone around SLC wants to get out on some mellower stuff, I'm keen to learn and know the basics. I'll bring the beer.
    Stoke is stoke, whether it is your first time or 1,000th time. Get out there and enjoy.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  14. #339
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    Good read by Matt Samet at Climbing magazine. I'm a member of the "tried it once, sketched through, and never did it again" club.

    Free Soloing Sucks (And Why We're Going to Cover It Anyway)

  15. #340
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    Beautiful fall day up in BCC Saturday. Climbed my first multi pitch.


  16. #341
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    good stuff, wish that was me today!
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  17. #342
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    Youngest getting his crack on.

  18. #343
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    Nice job, dfinn!

    Just got back from a family trip from Yosemite, where I only was able to sneak in half a day of climbing on The Grack (fantastic!). The Valley is so epic. Even as a gumby, it's hard to go there and not want to learn how to aid climb and be a better climber generally. Can't wait to go back!

  19. #344
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    Made another trip to the Valley.

    My partner's flight was delayed by the wildfire smoke, so we didn't meet up until late. Stupidly, we decided to climb Royal Arches anyway. A late start, waiting for parties climbing or retreating, etc. meant that we finished the 15th and final pitch at sunset. It also meant that we had to rappel 1,500' by headlamp, which was a little frightening. Worst of all, it meant that we missed final call at the bar in the Ahwanhee.

    Somebody else's photo of the route.


    We were trying to move fast , so we took very few photos. But here's a nice crack about halfway up.


    This is from about 10:30 p.m., when we were finally reaching big ledges and trees and were only 4 more rappels from the bottom. We started to feel a little relief after focusing on avoiding stupid or fatal mistakes while doing the first 16 rappels in the dark after a lot of climbing.


    It being Friday the 13th, however, we did in fact make a stupid mistake. Having finally reached the ground on the final rappel, we forgot to untie a stopper knot while pulling the rope through. This meant reclimbing the first pitch the next morning to rescue the rope.


    Bodies beat, we opted for the classic 5.5 cruiser on Sunnyside Bench so that we could take a dip in the pools. It was a mediocre climb and the water was way too cold, but the views were outstanding.


    Walking off.


    Yosemite is nice this time of year.


    Last edited by AKbruin; 10-16-2017 at 12:17 PM.

  20. #345
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    Glad you got off that rap safely. There are lots of bad stories about rapping that in the dark. We did the walk off many years ago, and that is also sketchy in the dark. Fortunately one of our group new the route and we got off before total dark. We did it in October as well, Halloween as a matter of fact. Amazing colors in the valley in fall.

    Glad you only forgot the stopped knot on the last rap, would have been a real bitch in the middle.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  21. #346
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    Love that shit-eating grin on that hand crack way up high!

    Your photos of the foliage are beautiful. The smoke and composition really make that scene so serene and wonderful. Excellent shots.

  22. #347
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    A little climbing stoke without photos; about 8 years ago when my oldest son was 14-15 years old, I spent the summer taking him and his best friend cragging in the foothills behind the house. At the end of the summer I took them up the Grand Teton. Fast forward to now and my kids friend is living in a van and climbing all over the west. Onsighting 5.11+ and big days. I guess he caught the bug bad.

  23. #348
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    I was digging through some boxes today and found this old laminated photo of myself climbing at Joshua Tree when I had "the bug" long ago, some 5.9 at the Lost Horse area I think. I gave this photo to my parents and they put it on the fridge. My dad gave it back to me when my mom died and he was moving. I don't think my parents knew what to make of my climbing. Probably scared the shit out of them. I know if one of my daughters was living in a van and climbing (like I did) I would be worried sick. I guess I'm more aware of the dangers than my parents were. Ignorance is bliss.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  24. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahman View Post
    I was digging through some boxes today and found this old laminated photo of myself climbing at Joshua Tree when I had "the bug" long ago, some 5.9 at the Lost Horse area I think. I gave this photo to my parents and they put it on the fridge. My dad gave it back to me when my mom died and he was moving. I don't think my parents knew what to make of my climbing. Probably scared the shit out of them. I know if one of my daughters was living in a van and climbing (like I did) I would be worried sick. I guess I'm more aware of the dangers than my parents were. Ignorance is bliss.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    ^^^^^^Rad.
    What we have here is an intelligence failure. You may be familiar with staring directly at that when shaving. .
    -Ottime
    One man can only push so many boulders up hills at one time.
    -BMillsSkier

  25. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    A little climbing stoke without photos; about 8 years ago when my oldest son was 14-15 years old, I spent the summer taking him and his best friend cragging in the foothills behind the house. At the end of the summer I took them up the Grand Teton. Fast forward to now and my kids friend is living in a van and climbing all over the west. Onsighting 5.11+ and big days. I guess he caught the bug bad.
    Took my 17 year old nephew out for his first taste of real rock awhile back. Now he is out climbing me (which isn't saying much at my age), and flashed the Grand this summer. Hasn't moved into a van yet, but he is eyeing my Sportsmobile. Probably going to end up a UC in Boulder for obvious reasons.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

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