Results 2,426 to 2,450 of 6863
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12-04-2018, 07:44 PM #2426
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12-04-2018, 07:53 PM #2427
PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.
No way. That's the worst piece of advice that won't die
On the plus side, those items are all available at Ace. But if we are home brewing methods, a flathead screwdriver works better
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12-04-2018, 08:00 PM #2428
You put the screws through the holes, hold the binding in the air and check
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12-04-2018, 08:54 PM #2429
Says the guy who cuts threads on plugs that are to be epoxied.....
The jam nut works just fine for those who do not have a wide enough flathead or extractor, use QK inserts or have stripped BF inserts. Using a shoulder or nutted screw for installing inserts also works fine if you do not have other options in hand.Last edited by Alpinord; 12-04-2018 at 09:33 PM.
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
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12-04-2018, 10:48 PM #2430Registered User
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12-05-2018, 11:06 AM #2431
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12-05-2018, 11:53 AM #2432Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
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12-09-2018, 06:57 PM #2433
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12-09-2018, 10:51 PM #2434
^^^ sharp!
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12-11-2018, 07:10 AM #2435
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12-11-2018, 09:38 AM #2436
Mounted some old swiss cheese skis with some long track STH 14s, just so I could have an extra pair of fat skis for visiting guests.
Had to dig through my spare screws and grind a few screws to make the lengths work. I left 2 rear heels screws 1-1.5mm too long. Bubbled the bases. Oops. (I've mounted thousands of skis in my days, and should have know better but because it was a beat up loaner I didn't really care)
Had to pull those screws out, grind them down another 1mm. Heat the bases up really warm and pound em down with a flat faced hammer. After a quick scrape with the metal scraper I could hardly tell which ski I screwed up on.
Reminded me of my shop days when we would charge extra for a mount when we encountered a "Binding in Bag w loose screws". We rarely charged for binding mounts. Our store policy was if you bought a ski, boot or binding from us we would mount for free. If someone brought in an outside ski for mounting we ofter just ask for beer. BUT if it was a binding in bag, or if the customer said "I think all the screws are there" the work order would get a big black Sharpie marker "BIB" written on it, and we charged the full price.
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12-11-2018, 04:00 PM #2437Squaw Cares
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- NorCal
- Posts
- 531
Need sanity check on this;
I traded some swag for a pair of 188 Soul 7 HD and mounting Attack 13's and have a Raptor w/303 BSL. Rossi has two recommended mount points: “All Mountain” (5.9 cm from center; 87.3 cm from tail) and “Freeride” (7.9 cm from center; 87.3 cm from tail). I want the freeride or -2.
I have template; check.
I've ID'ed the ski center via this mark
To mate the two template half's (for my BSL) using the mm markers I tape together each piece (heel-toe) and match up @ at the 300mm line?
ID ski center (vertical or half)
Tape template to ski placing boot mid sole mark -2cm behind ski centerline?
3x measure, adjust as needed, tap, glue, drill, etc.
Joining the template and properly placing it (for -2 mount) have me unsure. TIA!
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12-11-2018, 07:00 PM #2438Registered User
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- Mar 2008
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- 142
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12-11-2018, 07:48 PM #2439
So what exactly is the benefit that tapping provides? Why is it needed for skis with metal topsheets? I'm trying to understand the details of it. The only reason I can think of is that a tap has sharper or thinner threads that help cut into the wood layers.
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12-11-2018, 08:19 PM #2440Registered User
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12-11-2018, 10:02 PM #2441
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12-13-2018, 01:43 PM #2442Registered User
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- Mar 2015
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- 555
Another session at the work bench out in the frigid garage last night. So cold my beer was trying to slush. The tried and true template that comes in the box of pivot/fks bindings works every time. Helps that I've mounted pivots many times.
Finished product. FKS mounted on the line. I can not wait to try the ski out. I have owned a lot of skis in the charger category, but these may end up being the best. I would say moderately stiff, with just the right amount of taper, tip and tail rocker. My beloved Cochise may see a little less use.
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12-13-2018, 01:57 PM #2443
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12-13-2018, 04:39 PM #2444
Bought some skis on eBay, went to pull the bindings and found out the previous owner had forced binding screws into inserts. Emphasis on *forced*, as the inserts had been shoved within the ski, dimpling the base. Got most of the screws out, but some came out with inserts. Several inserts had snapped in half within the ski, so after a few hours with a screw extractor and some needle nose pliers ended up with the pile seen here. Going to drill out the holes larger and do a mass of helicoils and hope for the best.
Last edited by cstefanic; 12-14-2018 at 04:10 PM.
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12-13-2018, 06:10 PM #2445
Getting ready to mount my new Billy Goats with FKS bindings. This will only be my second mount. I remember last time (a few years ago) having some trouble with the screw catching and tightening on the binding hole itself before the screw was fully seated in the ski hole leaving a gap between the binding and ski. Is there a reason the binding holes are slightly interference fit with binding screws other than to keep the screw from getting lost when the bindings aren't mounted? Can I drill the binding holes out a smidge to make installation easier? Any other tips with this issue or was a just a dumbass last time and need to make sure the binding is flush before I start screwing?
Note this has nothing to do with the volcano effect.
Here are a couple posts where someone is talking about the same "problem."
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...43#post4104443
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...13#post4104813
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12-14-2018, 11:25 PM #2446Registered User
- Join Date
- Jun 2017
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- 93
You're right that the screws are only threaded into the plastic for keeping all the parts together in the package during shipping, sale, and the mounting process. Once they're mounted the plastic could just as well have clearance holes.
You can drill them out if you want, won't affect performance, but proper install technique is all that's needed. They are trickier than other heel pieces to install.
If you do the front holes first with the brakes hanging free (screw all the way in but don't torque tight yet) and then push on the brake pedal hard to hold the piece down while you do the back screws you should be good. Then torque all four screws evenly at the end once everything's aligned.
If you botch it you can always helicoil or install threaded inserts.
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12-15-2018, 12:19 AM #2447
Thanks. I guess I was alternatively looking for “proper install technique” and any tips people have. I’d really rather not mess it up...that’s kind of the whole point of this thread right?
iirc maybe my problem came from wanting the screw sticking through the binding enough to feel/center with the hole in the ski below. Then when the screw starts threading in the hole there is a couple-thread gap between the two.
For the paper templates. They are marked in 5mm increments. The lines are about 1mm thick. My boots are 306mm. Line up the template right at 305 or line up bottom of toe side “305 line” and top of heel side “305 line” to get closer to 306? I guess I know the answer is “it doesn’t fucking matter it’s only a mm” just bouncing a couple thoughts off the collective.
So I have a shouldered bit and hand driver. Already have centerline and recommend line marked in tape. So put templates on, center punch, drill, chamfer hole slightly, wood glue, attach binding with screws by hand. Anything I’m missing?
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12-15-2018, 09:08 AM #2448
It’s important with a FKS mount that the brakes clear the ski and hang freely when mounting.
When you try to mount them on a flat bench you can’t get the heel screws straight into the ski.
Mount the front heel screws fairly tight, then push down on the brakes (you can also put a screw driver between the brakes and ski To hold then up) then drive the rear screws.
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12-15-2018, 10:45 AM #2449Registered User
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- Jun 2017
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- 93
You forgot the beer steps. That helps with the overthink problems you're having.
Don't poke the screws out and try to align by eye, you can pull the front screws from the heel completely to align the front holes and trust your template to align the rear holes. If anything, back the rear screws out half a turn before driving them into the ski to ensure no gap.
305mm line is good for 306mm BSL.
Adjust DIN by the indicators when clicked in and forward pressure by feel (there are a way too many posts on this in other threads so I won't go into it)
Check the heel snap/ elastic travel.
Check the toe recentering.
Go skiing.
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12-15-2018, 11:00 AM #2450Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2016
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- 363
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