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  1. #2401
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Zurich, Switzerland
    Posts
    420
    Three in two skis,

    one in the toe-piece front right and on the same ski one in the heelpiece back left. Other ski also heelpiece back left.

    actually I doubt that it will rip... I just have no experience and did not want to faceplant right away.

  2. #2402
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    873
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    Bamboo chopsticks


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Can't believe I never thought of this.

  3. #2403
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,885
    Quote Originally Posted by homebrewd View Post
    Can't believe I never thought of this.
    bamboo chopsticks are too big for binding screw holes, but bamboo BBQ skewers are the right size
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #2404
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Driving2VT
    Posts
    4,582
    Is bamboo bamboo. Meaning the quality of wood used for chopsticks and bbq skewers equal to that of ski cores — fine to plug and drill away??
    Uno mas

  5. #2405
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW -> MSO
    Posts
    7,889
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    bamboo chopsticks are too big for binding screw holes, but bamboo BBQ skewers are the right size
    Dude, if I had a nickel for every time you've mentioned that...

  6. #2406
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    4,579
    Anybody able to help me find the template for Salomon MTN tech bindings?

    Posts about guardians and sth-997s are all I can find.

  7. #2407
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Tahoe>Missoula>Fort Collins
    Posts
    1,798
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    bamboo chopsticks are too big for binding screw holes, but bamboo BBQ skewers are the right size
    The chopsticks is perfect for me with a dye. tried skewers they didn't work too good. too skinny even if you don't run em through a dye (for me anyway). Were swimming in epoxy.

    Unmerited but I am more confident in the "nice" free chopsticks over the 100 for $1 skewers. Laughing at that. They do seem like they have higher relative density vs the BBQ skewers, which often have those loose slivers

    Anecdotal but the chopsticks have sharper ridges than my oak dowels after the dye


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums


  8. #2408
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Sandy by the front
    Posts
    2,345
    Quote Originally Posted by Speedfreak View Post
    Got these done last night. Yeahbuddy.Attachment 258330Attachment 258331
    Your going to love the Deathwishes, good job.

  9. #2409
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    50
    Remounted my rock skis/swiss cheese skis. Removed two sets of inserts, toes also have four extra holes. Did that without any beer at the kitchen, this cannot be gooodClick image for larger version. 

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  10. #2410
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    142
    I’m missing some screws that came with my pivot 14s. How do I determine what screws to buy to replace them?

    Another thought I had is... does the screw size needed differ for each ski or is it simply based on the binding? I feel like since each ski gets drilled with different drill bit dimensions the screw sizes would differ per ski.


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  11. #2411
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,845
    Quote Originally Posted by aguo5520 View Post
    I’m missing some screws that came with my pivot 14s. How do I determine what screws to buy to replace them?

    Another thought I had is... does the screw size needed differ for each ski or is it simply based on the binding? I feel like since each ski gets drilled with different drill bit dimensions the screw sizes would differ per ski.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Screw sizes are the same for any adult ski. All ski binding screws are wider than either the 3.6mm bit or the 4.1. The reason you use 4.1 is just to avoid volcano-ing of metal topsheets as the pilot hole expands as you screw in.

  12. #2412
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    4,579
    Quote Originally Posted by aguo5520 View Post
    I’m missing some screws that came with my pivot 14s. How do I determine what screws to buy to replace them?

    Another thought I had is... does the screw size needed differ for each ski or is it simply based on the binding? I feel like since each ski gets drilled with different drill bit dimensions the screw sizes would differ per ski.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    ❅-Pivot 14 (13/14 and newer)
    •8 – 18mm small heads
    •4 – 10mm low heads
    •4 – 16mm low heads

  13. #2413
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,885
    Quote Originally Posted by Doremite View Post
    Is bamboo bamboo. Meaning the quality of wood used for chopsticks and bbq skewers equal to that of ski cores — fine to plug and drill away??

    it depends on your religion, chopsticks/ dowel/ BBq skewers/ steel wool/ FG strands, I believe any piece of wood you put in there will have the grain going at 90degrees to what the wood grain runs in a ski runs or have no grain at all, does that matter, does any of it still impart strength, I don't know I am not a materials guy but it looks funny to me so I just don't go there

    I believe that whatever you put in the holes is more about plugging the hole to keep moisture out of the core than making the ski good as new, I believe that if you put too many holes across a ski you cut the cores/grain of the wood so it will break more easily in that spot and or the screws will pull out , people have had it work, people have had it fail maybe cuz people do all kinds of shitty work but best-practice is don't put any holes closer than 1cm

    I've tried golf tees, shaving them down to fit was tedious also a pack of golf tees is more expensive/ harder to find than BBq skewers which i can pickup in any food store for cheaper and they fit perfect

    I tried dowel stock from the HW store and I didnt get the size close enough cuz the gorilla glue expanded over night and spit them all out on top of the ski it was a funny fail

    The shops have to be quick and look neat so they don't have time to fuck around waiting for epoxy to cure so they just bang in a buch of plugs in a couple of minutes

    so the answer : it depends on your religion, and do you feel lucky punk
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  14. #2414
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,885
    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    Dude, if I had a nickel for every time you've mentioned that...
    yeah and how often do people ask the same stupid questions ferinstance

    how close can i put binding holes ?

    what do i plug binding holes with ?



    JUST don't get me started on people who leave info out, who can't write a fucking technical document if their lives depended on it, who impart info the same way their wife might ... after the fact " well I didn't mean that "
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  15. #2415
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Tahoe>Missoula>Fort Collins
    Posts
    1,798

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post

    I believe that whatever you put in the holes is more about plugging the hole to keep moisture out of the core than making the ski good as new, I believe that if you put too many holes across a ski you cut the cores/grain of the wood so it will break more easily in that spot and or the screws will pull out , people have had it work, people have had it fail maybe cuz people do all kinds of shitty work but best-practice is don't put any holes closer than 1cm
    On this point I feel differently. Hardwood and epoxy is strong as hell. Golf tees and gorilla glue, less so. I wouldn't use golf tees and certainly not gorilla glue. Gorilla glue is good at some things but it dries extremely porous -- not good.

    I think if the goal is waterproofing you can plug with anything, just be sure to do it. Go nuts and put some wood glue on top and while ugly, it'll be perfect.

    Skis are held together with epoxy. When you have a core that is more than one wood type, the slabs are held with epoxy. Cores are rarely one solid piece of wood.

    Edit:
    I'll keep experimenting by mounting on top of old holes for everyone. And everyone, keep selling me your skis on their third mount for cheap

    I should add my stance is financially motivated. I'm cheap and hard on gear. I figure cost of 3 pairs of used skis, inserts, and 1 pair of bindings = Cost of 1 new pair of skis and binders shop mounted.

    My 2c


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  16. #2416
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Tahoe>Missoula>Fort Collins
    Posts
    1,798
    Anyone have BF inserts or the insert tool lying around they'd sell me? I broke the nubs off the tool and IMO it works better than anything else


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums


  17. #2417
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Santa Cruz, CA
    Posts
    612
    Some questions as a first timer:

    I laid out and center punched my skis last night from a paper template, but one of them had something funky going on. I could use a little advice. Here's what I did, and what happened:

    To find the ski center line I clamped a calipers across the ski (to get a proper right angle) and then measured with a centered ruler. I did this in 5 or 6 spots down the ski and connected the marks with straight edge. After that I double-checked the ski center by wrapping the centered ruler to the edges. The boot center line was screen printed on the ski but only about an inch long, so I used a piece of tape to extend it to the edges. The paper template fit perfectly for one ski, and I used a center punch to mark the drill spots.

    When I got to the second ski, though, I couldn't get the template to align with both the boot center line and the ski center line. What I finally came around to thinking was that the screen printed boot center line wasn't at a right angle to the ski center line (tough to actually measure as I didn't have a protractor handy), so I aligned the template with the ski center and the center point of the boot center line and punched the drill locations.

    Is it normal for a screen printed boot center line to be off by a few degrees? It seems like an easy mistake to make in manufacturing. What's the best way for me to go back and double-check to make sure I didn't somehow screw up the alignment on that second ski? I'm about 90% sure it's fine, but I'd hate to get them mounted only to find my binding pointing cock-eyed. Any help is appreciated.

  18. #2418
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW -> MSO
    Posts
    7,889
    You have it right. Measure from the edges, tape pull from tip/tail to verify boot centerline(s), ignore graphics.

  19. #2419
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    SoCal. SoVT.
    Posts
    1,317
    Quote Originally Posted by bigdude2468 View Post
    Your going to love the Deathwishes, good job.
    It’s my second pair of DWs (4th triple cambered). Already my fave ski of all time, and I suspect the added stiffness is gonna put even more distance between the DW and the rest of the pack.
    Quote Originally Posted by doughboyshredder View Post
    If you're not standing on the fucking traverse with your thumb up your ass you wont get checked.

    dumbfuck.

  20. #2420
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    SoCal. SoVT.
    Posts
    1,317
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    Anyone have BF inserts or the insert tool lying around they'd sell me? I broke the nubs off the tool and IMO it works better than anything else


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Slidewright has the tool (in a set) but it’s not cheap.
    Quote Originally Posted by doughboyshredder View Post
    If you're not standing on the fucking traverse with your thumb up your ass you wont get checked.

    dumbfuck.

  21. #2421
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    142
    Quote Originally Posted by doebedoe View Post
    Screw sizes are the same for any adult ski. All ski binding screws are wider than either the 3.6mm bit or the 4.1. The reason you use 4.1 is just to avoid volcano-ing of metal topsheets as the pilot hole expands as you screw in.
    Interesting. Then what is the reason for the depth dimension for drilling into skis (e.g. 9mm vs 9.5mm)?

  22. #2422
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    142
    Quote Originally Posted by jackattack View Post
    ❅-Pivot 14 (13/14 and newer)
    •8 – 18mm small heads
    •4 – 10mm low heads
    •4 – 16mm low heads
    How do you decide which one to use?

  23. #2423
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,885
    Quote Originally Posted by burrito View Post
    Some questions as a first timer:

    I laid out and center punched my skis last night from a paper template, but one of them had something funky going on. I could use a little advice. Here's what I did, and what happened:

    To find the ski center line I clamped a calipers across the ski (to get a proper right angle) and then measured with a centered ruler. I did this in 5 or 6 spots down the ski and connected the marks with straight edge. After that I double-checked the ski center by wrapping the centered ruler to the edges. The boot center line was screen printed on the ski but only about an inch long, so I used a piece of tape to extend it to the edges. The paper template fit perfectly for one ski, and I used a center punch to mark the drill spots.

    When I got to the second ski, though, I couldn't get the template to align with both the boot center line and the ski center line. What I finally came around to thinking was that the screen printed boot center line wasn't at a right angle to the ski center line (tough to actually measure as I didn't have a protractor handy), so I aligned the template with the ski center and the center point of the boot center line and punched the drill locations.

    Is it normal for a screen printed boot center line to be off by a few degrees? It seems like an easy mistake to make in manufacturing. What's the best way for me to go back and double-check to make sure I didn't somehow screw up the alignment on that second ski? I'm about 90% sure it's fine, but I'd hate to get them mounted only to find my binding pointing cock-eyed. Any help is appreciated.
    Skis have been known to come with the boot center mark off usually fore/aft , the thing to do is measure both skls from tail to the ski center mark to check if they are both the same, sometimes on a popular ski you can find the exact distance in cms posted somwhere by a pro or e-mail the mfger and ask, IME this is the openning step to mounting a binding

    I like using a t-square to draw any lines on painters tape for layout, for any measurment I measure from one edge then measure from the other edge, for the ski cneter the lines are usually at a very slight angle to one another cuz ski edges are not straight due to sidecut so split the difference to draw a line that is 90 degrees to the ski center line, I also twice measure from ski edge either way to find points and do accurate measurement

    I never use those flacid paper templates i just use the boot & binding for the mounting process but you somehow want to check the template to make sure the printer you used to print the template is at the correct size, some of the templates have a scale you can measure with a ruler or use the binding

    go slow drink coffee, some drink beer but IME it takes too long/too many beers to mount a fixed heel binding without a professional jig and the accuracy/quality may suffer

    This ^^ is not true for tele cuz I can mount half a binding in 2 beers,

    in any case it would be impossible to tell if a tele mount is fucked up
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #2424
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Santa Cruz, CA
    Posts
    612
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    go slow drink coffee, some drink beer but IME it takes too long/too many beers to mount a fixed heel binding without a professional jig and the accuracy/quality may suffer
    I did a plywood test mount the other day, so I'm confident the templates are good. The boot center marks were in the same spot fore and aft on the skis, too. Mostly I'm worried that I somehow screwed up the ski's center line and have that second ski marked out of center/parallel. I'm going to repeat the whole process on that one tonight to triple-check things before drilling...This is what happens when you move to a town without a reliable shop.

  25. #2425
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    On another tangent.
    Posts
    3,854
    Quote Originally Posted by Speedfreak View Post
    Slidewright has the tool (in a set) but it’s not cheap.
    All you need is a screw and jam nut for installs and removals (should be two nuts on the image):

    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
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