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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #4801
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    So I’m generally pretty good at tracking down creaks but this is a difficult one. My 150/160 29er has a carbon frame with a fully integrated headset, maybe 2500 miles on it. Creak is now noticeable riding whenever front wheel hits a square edged rock small or large. Creak happens as well if you just pick up the bike and drop it from a foot high.

    FSA headset bearings spin smooth and seem like new. All interfaces (crown race, headset, all stem bolts, axle, etc) have been cleaned and regreased. When fork was put in a big ass vise yesterday, my 190 lbs couldn’t induce a creak in any direction (manitou has very good rep for not gett8ng the CSU creaks of a Fox or occasionally RS). Cables and brake lines entering the front of frame were cleaned and silicone sprayed.

    The only small thing I noticed was that the aluminum compression (aka Split) ring between steerer and bearing is scored and slightly pitted. This style of headset uses a tall compression ring, so the usual rings (cane creek 40 or 110) won’t fit.

    Any ideas on what to try next?
    I had a similar FSA headset that came stock on my enduro. Also had similar pitting on the upper race. And yeah, creaking.

    Fucked around with it for weeks to no avail. Ultimately just replaced it. Problem solved.

  2. #4802
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    I had a similar FSA headset that came stock on my enduro. Also had similar pitting on the upper race. And yeah, creaking.

    Fucked around with it for weeks to no avail. Ultimately just replaced it. Problem solved.
    Thx, I was leaning toward a new headset as the solution. Probably Cane Creek 40. You’ve given me hope

    The upper bearing has an OD of 31.8, so I guess I’m
    Looking for an IS42 upper assembly. The lower bearing is marked 36/45 degrees, which I think means the frame/bearing interface is 36 degrees.

  3. #4803
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_B View Post
    I did my ~2015 Pike with a flathead screwdriver and didn't have a problem.
    Thanks. The box end of a wrench seemed kinder than the other implements at hand, but it popped out right after I read that like I had rolled up to the mechanic with a formerly squeaky wheel.

  4. #4804
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    So I don’t want to mess up other threads so I figured I’d ask the experts. Serious question, not trying to troll. What are the benefits from crush core or similar products? Here in VT I know of no one that running that type of setup. I know if I asked the “expert” in our extended group I’d get a lecture about increasing rolling weight, one of his biggest pet peeves. We ride mostly technical trails, roots and rocks. Not a lot of jumps or park days.

  5. #4805
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flounder View Post
    So I don’t want to mess up other threads so I figured I’d ask the experts. Serious question, not trying to troll. What are the benefits from crush core or similar products? Here in VT I know of no one that running that type of setup. I know if I asked the “expert” in our extended group I’d get a lecture about increasing rolling weight, one of his biggest pet peeves. We ride mostly technical trails, roots and rocks. Not a lot of jumps or park days.
    I actually run a insert on the back of my hardtail in vermont. I do it so I can run 15 psi on 2.6 inch tire and 35mm rim and not get bottom out or ripping the tire off the rim. I take it out for smoother trails because at 18 psi it is very hard to bottom. On my 160/140 bike I see no need in vermont because I am not using the tire as suspension but out west you can hit rock so hard and cushcore would make sense IMO especially in desert style riding.

    But the entire point is to get a softer outer tire with a stiffer inner tire, its also insurance for your rim. The downside is weight and installing it.

  6. #4806
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    Nov 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushwacka View Post
    I actually run a insert on the back of my hardtail in vermont. I do it so I can run 15 psi on 2.6 inch tire and 35mm rim and not get bottom out or ripping the tire off the rim. I take it out for smoother trails because at 18 psi it is very hard to bottom. On my 160/140 bike I see no need in vermont because I am not using the tire as suspension but out west you can hit rock so hard and cushcore would make sense IMO especially in desert style riding.

    But the entire point is to get a softer outer tire with a stiffer inner tire, its also insurance for your rim. The downside is weight and installing it.
    That's a good idea. I hadn't thought of just doing on the rear of my hardtail, any recommendations about which one? I have previously ignored basically all discussions of inserts because like the other person said, I dont believe anyone I ride with uses them...

  7. #4807
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flounder View Post
    So I don’t want to mess up other threads so I figured I’d ask the experts.
    There is literally a whole thread devoted to this question. Search function, JONG.

    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=335462
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  8. #4808
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    Jan 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    on carbon you wana use the carbon paste ime

    On new yeti 5.5's my buddy & I had creaking seat posts, I tried grease/ lube/ wax chain lube/ teflon pipe tape/ every fucking thing and nothing could make it go away

    until the carbon pas
    What paste are you guys using? ParkTool assembly compound any good?
    After replacing my OneUp cartridge the post has become much more sensitive to the torque on the collar and will stick mid-travel with anything more than 4 Nm. Predictably enough the lower torque came with an angry creak.
    It about made me cry the other day, I crossed a creek and ended up with the bike in murky ass water up to the hubs. The following 5 miles of flat dirt road and 3 miles of climbing were like a fucking creaking festival involving seatpost, BB, and drivetrain all working together in harmony. Shit go so loud I started wishing for headphones...
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  9. #4809
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    What paste are you guys using? ParkTool assembly compound any good?
    .
    OneUp droppers used to come with a little packet of paste and I have two that have lasted me for like three years.

  10. #4810
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    I like Finish Line Fiber Grip, I'm sure the Park Tool stuff works well too. I probably have some if you need it asap

  11. #4811
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    yeah an LBS gave me a little pack of paste that I think came with an FSA product

    I use it to put to put togerther stuff that isnt carbon cuz its good shit

    IME you might have to apply it every year, which reminds me I have to do the seat on my Yeti
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  12. #4812
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    Quote Originally Posted by cydwhit View Post
    OneUp droppers used to come with a little packet of paste and I have two that have lasted me for like three years.
    Either they stopped including that in the past year or I tossed it away with the box like an idiot...

    Quote Originally Posted by Benneke10 View Post
    I like Finish Line Fiber Grip, I'm sure the Park Tool stuff works well too. I probably have some if you need it asap
    Thanks, there's no rush, I can live with the creak now that the drivetrain and BB are back to behaving themselves after shedding a pound or so of river silt.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  13. #4813
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    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    There is literally a whole thread devoted to this question. Search function, JONG.

    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=335462
    Yeah saw that thread but it seems to be people that have already made up their minds about inserts. I wondered what the experts would say about why I should use it. Doesn’t seem to be a thing around here. It’s Vermont though and sometimes it takes a while for things to catch in here. Seems to prevent flats and rim damage but those aren’t problems I have.

  14. #4814
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    Apr 2008
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    Treading Water
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    Ask the experts

    DT Swiss Hub Bearing Specs.

    Anyone with wisdom and experience want to tackle this for me? Two local shops have failed and I don't want them identifying by dismantling if I can't find the parts to put them back together.

    240s J-Bend 6-bolt hubs. Bought used in 2017. Blue Giant/DT Swiss Labels (Glory Take-Offs)
    12 x 150 Rear with xD Freehub (no idea if it's 3 of the same size, or 3 totally different sizes)
    20 x 110 pre-boost Front (I'm 80% sure they're 6805)
    Last edited by jm2e; 06-04-2021 at 09:48 PM.
    However many are in a shit ton.

  15. #4815
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    Aug 2013
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    Possibly tech talk but the search sucks on mobile, so, are all stands created equal?

    Design wise all seem pretty similar but I’m guessing some have better clamping mechanisms and stability than others.

    Quickly learned that working on bikes without a stand is a huge PITA. Any recommendations?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  16. #4816
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    Quote Originally Posted by east or bust View Post
    Possibly tech talk but the search sucks on mobile, so, are all stands created equal?

    Design wise all seem pretty similar but I’m guessing some have better clamping mechanisms and stability than others.

    Quickly learned that working on bikes without a stand is a huge PITA. Any recommendations?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Feedback Sports pro elite is what you want.

    Unless you don't care about it being movable, in which case the park stands that you bolt into [something solid] work well.

  17. #4817
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    What paste are you guys using?
    PM me if you want me to put 2 packs in a regular USPS envelope to you, they are included with every bike build, and 1 pack does 5+ bikes.

  18. #4818
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    I'm using a bench mounted Park pro stand from an LBS that went out of business, I've had it bolted to benches, walls & ceilings

    when I didnt have anywhere to bolt it I made it portable by bolting it to some 2x4's which I chucked into a B&D workmate
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #4819
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    Aug 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Feedback Sports pro elite is what you want.

    Unless you don't care about it being movable, in which case the park stands that you bolt into [something solid] work well.
    Sweet, thanks

  20. #4820
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    Jan 2017
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    295
    Quote Originally Posted by Flounder View Post
    Yeah saw that thread but it seems to be people that have already made up their minds about inserts. I wondered what the experts would say about why I should use it. Doesn’t seem to be a thing around here. It’s Vermont though and sometimes it takes a while for things to catch in here. Seems to prevent flats and rim damage but those aren’t problems I have.
    I use a Vittoria air liner in the rear of my hardtail down here in Georgia. Don’t do bike parks very much so can’t speak much to that. Definitely helps soften up the rear end and gives me more grip on off camber stuff/technical stuff. I don’t mind running the rear a little lower as long as my front tire is properly inflated/tracking well. I haven’t run cushcores but airliners are lighter and have good bottom out protection but don’t add any sidewalk support like cushcores. I also feel like getting deflected a little less in the rear helps with everything, braking, keeping momentum, etc. Overall love it on the hardtail, don’t think I’ll go back to no insert in the rear.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  21. #4821
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    Ask the experts

    If you’re not flatting or dinging rims, don’t bother with inserts. If you want the purported benefits, run lower pressure. If you like lower pressure but start flatting, or things get squirmy, get heavier casing tires. If you’re still flatting, then maybe consider inserts.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  22. #4822
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    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    If you’re not flatting or dinging rims, don’t bother with inserts. If you want the purported benefits, run lower pressure. If you like lower pressure but start flatting, or things get squirmy, get heavier casing tires. If you’re still flatting, then maybe consider inserts.
    This. The percentage of riders that actually need inserts is a lot lower than the percentage of riders that think they need inserts.

  23. #4823
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    This ^^ if you are asking if you need inserts you probably don't need them considering how much effort it was to instal a cushcore ime

    I have never even had a flat in the 3 yrs I've had the bike so i'm thinkin I can just spend that $ on a new tattoo or a vidya game insted of an insert
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #4824
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    Thanks all. Seems like I don’t need inserts currently. I’ll spend the money on other things.

  25. #4825
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    I think the main advantage of inserts is being able to run super low pressures without instantly totalling your rim. If you’re running pressures you’re happy with, aren’t going through rims and are getting enough support from your tire, inserts are not needed.

    I also thought the low pressures + inserts setup was more beneficial on a full suspension than a hardtail. It added small bump sensitivity that complemented the action of the suspension. On the hardtail, the ride was still bumpy while adding a bunch of weight.

    I’m no longer running inserts, instead running higher pressure.

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