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Thread: Climbing Stoke

  1. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    and honnold and caldwell shatter the two hour mark today.
    that is haulin ass

  2. #427
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    I climbed 5 pitches in more than 2 hours yesterday. Humbled. Not that I was trying to go fast or anything.

  3. #428
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    Long but well worth reading article about the evolution of the Nose speed climbing record.

    https://www.climbing.com/news/in-dep...-speed-record/

  4. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahman View Post
    Maybe finally breaking the mythical 2-hour mark will put an end to the Nose speed climbing insanity. Probably not. But who the fuck is going to be faster than those two guys? Nobody currently living on Earth.
    No doubt someone will try, and may set a new record--for the descent.

  5. #430
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    Climbing Stoke

    left work today for an “appointment“. funny that my lady and buddy also had early appointments. could not be happier about how it worked out. led 4 climbs, 6-10, and left in total darkness. would it still be this special if i could pull this off every week or would there be diminishing returns? cause i am pretty beyond stoked right now drinking a beer in the perfect night air of montreal.

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    that’s the ten, it doesn’t get a star in the topo but it was sick. climb a steep face for three or four bolts to pull a roof then traverse left on this ridiculous heinous slab with a couple of crimps to an anchor.

    not a climbing pic but this canadian dogwood was everywhere and really cool.

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  6. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    left work today for an “appointment“. funny that my lady and buddy also had early appointments. could not be happier about how it worked out. led 4 climbs, 6-10, and left in total darkness. would it still be this special if i could pull this off every week or would there be diminishing returns? cause i am pretty beyond stoked right now drinking a beer in the perfect night air of montreal.

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    that’s the ten, it doesn’t get a star in the topo but it was sick. climb a steep face for three or four bolts to pull a roof then traverse left on this ridiculous heinous slab with a couple of crimps to an anchor.

    not a climbing pic but this canadian dogwood was everywhere and really cool.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    My lady and I do the leave work early at least once a week during the summer and climb from 3-9PM, never gets any less special for us, always one of our favorite nights of the week.

  7. #432
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    Some people out there might get a kick out of this, found on an old bookshelf at my folks' place:

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  8. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by viglio View Post
    Some people out there might get a kick out of this, found on an old bookshelf at my folks' place:

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    That’s actually pretty awesome. Before you toss it in the recycling or whatever, doa search on eBay for the first Chouinard catalog prices. I have an eBay search set up for Chouinard equipment and those catalogs go for serious coin. .

    Maybe you knew that.

  9. #434
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    poko-moonshine is pretty cool and intimidating
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  10. #435
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    That does look cool. I've always heard that place is fun. A know a couple guys who attended college in Plattsburgh before moving out west and they climbed there a lot. They did say it was intimidating. Those corners look steep and the roofs are amazing! Awesome pics.

  11. #436
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    yeahman, it was pretty cool, we didn't have enough time to get in a climb after already going for three swims, climbing pitchoff chimney, and hiking baxter though.

    there is a boulder the size of the smaller peabody (maybe 45 feet?) at the base with an anchor at the top i'd never heard of.

    The adirondacks just have so much climbing. every ten minutes you see another 3 pitch cliff a quarter mile wide. So many new routes. I think NYS should pay some real climbers to come for a fall to hang out because no one cares. We climbed at Potter and there is space for at least 300 new routes at the crags. The main face is just a sea of rock. And there was one other car there. They had just done this 1 pitch crack for a FFA. said it went at 12A. Looked boss.

    Viglio, that's a really cool find. Nice to be able to read the text on the desktop. thanks.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  12. #437
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper View Post
    That’s actually pretty awesome. Before you toss it in the recycling or whatever, doa search on eBay for the first Chouinard catalog prices. I have an eBay search set up for Chouinard equipment and those catalogs go for serious coin. .

    Maybe you knew that.
    The Chouinard catalog I remember the most is the one with the ridiculous essay on running talus--by Dough Robinson I think. I wonder how many people broke legs doing that?

  13. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    The Chouinard catalog I remember the most is the one with the ridiculous essay on running talus--by Dough Robinson I think. I wonder how many people broke legs doing that?
    I had that in my mind running down from a new route in the palisades decades ago. I was so fried, my mind couldn't keep up with my feet and I just went with it. Thankfully, I didn't case myself.

  14. #439
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    While on acid in the Wind Rivers I ran down an almost veritcal stretch of talus for a few hundred feet.

    I remember coming across it and not second guessing that I would be able to get down, and then quite a bit of surprise at how long it took my friends to cover the same stretch. I looked at it another time I was in the area and wouldn't even consider it a viable path while sober. That was by far the best acid I've ever had.

  15. #440
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    I could see doing it on acid, just not straight.

  16. #441
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    Once upon a time I used to like to run on talus, but my mind, body and balance just aren't up for it any more.

    That said, on a recent trip to the Minerets near Mammoth I did any amazing talus run, strictly unintentional. I tripped, and through a series of hops, jumps, and runs I must have crossed 100 yards of talus, each one slightly off balance and trying to recover with each step. These were massive blocks, and a fall would have resulted in something broken, and a helicopter rescue. How I pulled it off is still a mystery.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  17. #442
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    Quote Originally Posted by hutash View Post
    Once upon a time I used to like to run on talus, but my mind, body and balance just aren't up for it any more.

    That said, on a recent trip to the Minerets near Mammoth I did any amazing talus run, strictly unintentional. I tripped, and through a series of hops, jumps, and runs I must have crossed 100 yards of talus, each one slightly off balance and trying to recover with each step. These were massive blocks, and a fall would have resulted in something broken, and a helicopter rescue. How I pulled it off is still a mystery.
    Instinct got you through. I can relate to this story.

    Once I was standing on a ledge below some sport climbs, eating a bagel, and the next thing I knew I had tripped and gone over the edge. I found myself running down a series of steep ramps with ball-bearing rocks all over them. I could not stop, just had to keep running at full speed down these ramps about 100 yards. Finally I tripped and flew through the air toward a huge boulder. I put my hands out to stop my head from smashing into it. The impact sent me into a somersault and I landed in some bushes. My hands were bruised for months, but I saved my head. It's funny because I still think it's the closest I ever came to dying or getting seriously hurt climbing--just casually hanging out below a sport climb, and the next thing I knew I was running for my life down these steep slabs. Crazy.

  18. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by viglio View Post
    My lady and I do the leave work early at least once a week during the summer and climb from 3-9PM, never gets any less special for us, always one of our favorite nights of the week.
    i’ve been climbing for 7 years now and i can’t get over how much more i enjoy it every time. now at lunches at work i just want to go outside and build anchors and look for placements while listening to henry barber talk about australia in the enormocast (great episode btw). how the hell did i not discover this until i was 30. scheming for an early departure again next week, i can’t swing it all summer but want to take advantage of these long days while they’re around.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  19. #444
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    Youngest getting his first taste of City of Rocks.

  20. #445
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    ^^Nice. Love the City.

  21. #446
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    looks really fun there. when’s the best time to visit?
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  22. #447
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    3 days of climbing and trying to beat the heat in vt.

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  23. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    looks really fun there. when’s the best time to visit?
    prob late spring/early fall to beat some of the summer heat. we lucked out w/ a cooler wknd.

  24. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by ml242 View Post
    3 days of climbing and trying to beat the heat in vt.
    That last shot is really cool.

  25. #450
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    Climbing Stoke

    thanks

    left work early and got some pitches in at poko. here’s my second on The Sting.

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    hiking up this v1 to throw a top rope of an anchor on the steep side.

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    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

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