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Thread: Ask the experts
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08-30-2021, 05:28 PM #5876Registered User
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I did my Yeti and it looked really good after 3 yrs, I got good $ for it so i did my fat bike I am in middle of doing my Bullit
I use the 4" wide 3M stuff which is 25$ for 3 meters, I wrap top of top tube/ bottom of down tube, bring the egdes around & round the corners It doesnt wrap the whole bike but it protects the bike where all the major hits happen and its not noticable unless you really look
the trickey head tube/ top tube/ downtube junction
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-30-2021, 05:49 PM #5877
Wheels Manufacturing makes 1mm thick BB spindle spacers for fine tuning stuff like that. I keep a few around for these sorts of scenarios. It's nice to have them on the spindle, rather than the BB cup so they're quicker and easier to fiddle with. Sounds like the ring flipped back to its standard orientation, a 2.5mm cup spacer, and one of those might do the trick and result in a better chainline than flipping the ring.
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08-30-2021, 05:58 PM #5878
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08-30-2021, 06:19 PM #5879
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08-30-2021, 06:57 PM #5880
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08-30-2021, 10:38 PM #5881
resale is my main reason. I'm not one for it needing to look pretty but a lot of other folks are. They'll wash and polish and all that kinda boring shit.
how many times did you kick the dog when doing it?
does it stretch as to keep the creases when going over undulating areas or do you have to put relief cuts in it?
Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile appi dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum
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08-30-2021, 10:49 PM #5882
I've done Ridewrap Custom x2 and DyedBro x2.
Ridewrap custom has much more coverage, especially in areas that get banged up like dropouts, etc. Seems less protective, tends to tear on impact, but the frame seems fine underneath.
DyedBro was much easier to apply and seems real thick / bomber. However, large swaths of bike are still exposed.
XXX-ers post illustrates my point. There's no protection from cable rub and you can see some chips in the unprotected head tube.
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08-30-2021, 11:36 PM #5883Registered User
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- Oct 2017
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- Evergreen Co
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Thoughts on the link would be appreciated. I’m curious about it. I was slightly tempted by a firebird but that’s way more bike than I actually need and I’ll end up hauling this bike on 40-50 mile alpine rides and the Switchblade fits the bill better on that front. So far I’m not having issues with bottoming out. I used all of my travel when I messed up a B-Line drop and landed wrong but that was situation where it made sense.
Playing with the rear suspension is on the table for sure. I’ve been thinking about an MRP Hazard or equivalent shock I can throw on occasionally so the cascade link could be an interesting pairing.
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08-31-2021, 07:30 AM #5884Registered User
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- Mar 2008
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- northern BC
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Used bikes are at a premium right now so I got 3800can$ which is pretty good money for 3 yr old 5.5 for which I paid 5500can$, I don't really even wash the bike very often let alone polish but 3M protects against minor scuffs such as throing a foot over the bike and scuffing the top tube or that kinda thing, also I think the dirty doesnt stick as well to the 3M so the bike just always looks better IMO. the ghetto version does not protect the whole bike but it covers the spots that ar most likey to get hit top of top tube botttom of bottom tube ORyou can pay alot more than 25$ for custom cut kits
I take my time measure , make patterns from paper and it looks pretty good for the 25$ or at least good enough for me but freehanding does take a little skill or art or SFT, a buddy said to me " yeah that other guy did his own wrap and it looks like it "
A spray bottle of alcohol and water solution will help the film stretch around curves work out the bubbles and undulations , there are a lot of curvey bits on a 5.5 but it worked out, the Bullit is a little easier cuz the frame members are more boxy/ bigger
no canines were harmed during the processLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-31-2021, 08:04 AM #5885
Yeah, it's got a preload ring, with not very much travel, and a wavy washer. Went for a ride with the flipped ring last night, and the chainline is definitely more fucked than it was before. Ordered a 30T ring which should allow me to run it in the original configuration, tight to the BB, with enough clearance on the chain stay. Especially on the Spur, I'm spending so much of my time in those top four gears, would really like to optimize my chainline for those.
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08-31-2021, 08:36 PM #5886
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08-31-2021, 08:44 PM #5887
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08-31-2021, 08:50 PM #5888
It’s our anniversary, hoping I don’t have to pay for that.
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08-31-2021, 08:59 PM #5889
For anniversary I give you special soul transformation - $37.
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08-31-2021, 09:02 PM #5890
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08-31-2021, 09:09 PM #5891
I’ve got a couple of those wolf tooth bags that integrate with the rad rail that I really like. Mostly just leave them on there all the time so I’m ready to ride. The rail let me still fit two water bottle holders in the triangle as well.
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08-31-2021, 09:20 PM #5892
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08-31-2021, 09:45 PM #5893Registered User
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- Oct 2010
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- 1,961
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08-31-2021, 11:07 PM #5894
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09-01-2021, 11:10 AM #5895
Chain line question. I ranted upthread about absolutely trashing an XT 10-51 cassette after about 1000 miles: the 2 biggest alu cogs have teeth that are nearly completely worn down and I suspect the chainline isn't helping despite being spot-on per Shimano recommendations. It's optimized for the middle of the cassette and I can definitely see additional wear on the ramp-up teeth of the biggest sprockets because of the weird angle the chain contacts them. Since I spend most of my time grinding on the big sprockets I figured I would try to tweak the chainline to favor alignment with the big cogs and sacrifice the smaller cogs a bit (I don't put a ton of time and power into those plus they're steel and will wear less).
I don't have any room to tweak the cranks, the shape of my chainstay prevents me from moving the chairing inward and I doubt I could gain even 0.5 mm without risking some rub. I did manage to push the new cassette outward with a 1 mm spacer against the freehub body though (I used the #7 spacer from an old cassette, 1 mm thick). I made it a bit difficult to get cog #4 to contact the splines on the freehub body (cogs #3 don't interface with the freehub body at all, only with cog #4) but once I cranked everything down there seems to be good engagement (worse case that sprocket will slip at some point and damage the freehub body which I can replace). The chainline looks a bit better and the 1mm shift doesn't cause the chain to rub on the chainstay when I'm on the smallest cog.
Am I even thinking about it the right way or am I wasting my time? Anyone else running something similar?
More importantly, am I going to die?
Last edited by Boissal; 09-01-2021 at 11:23 AM. Reason: for clarity or lack thereof
"Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise
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09-01-2021, 11:28 AM #5896Registered User
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- Oct 2017
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- Evergreen Co
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Not quite what you’re after… but I’d go to a smaller chainring up front. I typically think that you should have a chainring that allows you to almost never be riding in your lowest year. I try to size my chainrings to let me be on one of the more durable portion of the cassette. Oval rings also help. A lot of people would benefit from a 28 tooth chainring on 29’ers. I run a 30 on my race bike for training as it lets me stay in the middle of the cassette.
A smaller chainring will also likely help with chainstay clearance and allow you to not mess with the cassette.
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09-01-2021, 11:34 AM #5897
Definitely something to think about. The 51t is a true bailout gear and I'm not in it as much as the 45t which is the one that shows most of the wear. A smaller ring would allow me to spend more time on the steel cogs for sure.
I'm running a 32 oval now, with a 30 I get quite a bit of rub on top of the chain stay in small cogs. Not the end of the world but annoying. I've been thinking about going down to 30 for the summer since all I do is ride super steep shite and swapping back to 32 for the fall when the riding is less painful."Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise
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09-01-2021, 01:00 PM #5898
Smaller chainring is my recommendation as well.
Or Smaller wheels.
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09-01-2021, 01:04 PM #5899
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09-01-2021, 01:19 PM #5900
Blasphemy on the wheel size! I've only buzzed my taint on the minion a couple of times this year! I'll have to try mullet at some point though, I'm intrigued. Maybe mullet the big squish bike and stick to full 29er for the future short travel steed I am trying to convince myself I don't need.
Re: 28t, definitely a no-go but Ms Boissal's Occam is running a 30t oval and working fine. Might take it off her bike just to test it"Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise
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