Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

**Bobby Stainless** · 08-23-2019, 10:52 AM

I installed a bidet on my toilet. Ill post some pics later....

**::: :::** · 08-23-2019, 11:02 AM

Originally Posted by Vt-Freeheel

Realtor sent me some pics last night

deck attached directly to wall will do that

oof, not a good surprise, but better to see that and maybe do some other investigations around the house & make a call on whether it has other poorly crafted moments before actually closing (if not backing out entirely)

**muted** · 08-23-2019, 11:08 AM

Originally Posted by Vt-Freeheel

Brand doesn't matter, no real difference between brands. Pre cuts are 93", so if that works in your bays go for it to avoid the hassle of cutting.

Thanks! they are 98" but i'm taking yer advice

**AK47bp** · 08-23-2019, 11:31 AM

Originally Posted by Bobby Stainless

I installed a bidet on my toilet. Ill post some pics later....

Is it gay if you let the stream massage your butthole longer than needed?

Asking for a friend.

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**liv2ski** · 08-23-2019, 11:36 AM

Originally Posted by acinpdx

deck attached directly to wall will do that

I have a rental where the upstairs deck is connected to the house via a 2 X 10 that is attached to the length of the home. There are hangers on the 2X10 for the joists. I sure hope mine doesn't leak inside the walls like that picture indicates.

**::: :::** · 08-23-2019, 11:40 AM

Originally Posted by liv2ski

I have a rental where the upstairs deck is connected to the house via a 2 X 10 that is attached to the length of the home. There are hangers on the 2X10 for the joists. I sure hope mine doesn't leak inside the walls like that picture indicates.

in SD? or up at Mammoth?

you might be able to get away with that kind of stuff in a drier climate...ideally it's properly flashed either way

**EWG** · 08-23-2019, 11:46 AM

Originally Posted by acinpdx

deck attached directly to wall will do that

oof, not a good surprise, but better to see that and maybe do some other investigations around the house & make a call on whether it has other poorly crafted moments before actually closing (if not backing out entirely)

Yeah but there is something else going on too - check out the rot to the right of the deck on the exposed osb. Window flashing maybe. And there is flashing behind the 2x. Maybe it wasn't overlapped by the tyvek. But with rot above the deck as well it feels like there is a building paper problem too - which woudl mean it will show up elsewhere if it was a repeated installation error.

Good fun.

**::: :::** · 08-23-2019, 11:48 AM

Originally Posted by beece

repeated installation error.

Good fun.

that's what i'm thinking

**Timberridge** · 08-23-2019, 11:51 AM

I have to renovate a bathroom.

Any real life feedback on how the Kerdi, Wedi etc. board is holding up now that its been out a while?

Last bathroom I helped do 15 years ago was cement board + blocker. I hate working with cement board so other than materials cost Kerdi, etc. seems like a good alternative.

Also, preformed pans vs. made in place. Any advice?

**::: :::** · 08-23-2019, 11:56 AM

Originally Posted by Timberridge

I have to renovate a bathroom.

Any real life feedback on how the Kerdi, Wedi etc. board is holding up now that its been out a while?

Last bathroom I helped do 15 years ago was cement board + blocker. I hate working with cement board so other than materials cost Kerdi, etc. seems like a good alternative.

Also, preformed pans vs. made in place. Any advice?

The tile guy I respect most is all in on the Schluter systems (Kerdi & family). He says they are more solidly integrated and less prone to installer error

**Bobby Stainless** · 08-23-2019, 12:11 PM

Originally Posted by AK47bp

Is it gay if you let the stream massage your butthole longer than needed?

Asking for a friend.

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Ill have to report back. My wife bought it off Amazon. They have everything.

I fucked up the fluidmaster somehow and now the shitter is all tuned up with a new one.

Thing could be a life saver after going to Prince's.

**mcski** · 08-24-2019, 02:30 PM

Originally Posted by hatchgreenchile

Keep it. You know it's coming back right?

I was just thinking that with mid century modern being all the rage again these days

**muted** · 08-24-2019, 02:56 PM

How unhealthy is having batts in the walls for weeks, waiting for drywall? Should I wait until the day before drywallers show up? Right now it would be great to put them up to have some sort of work privacy and AC control....

**snoqpass** · 08-24-2019, 05:02 PM

Originally Posted by muted

How unhealthy is having batts in the walls for weeks, waiting for drywall? Should I wait until the day before drywallers show up? Right now it would be great to put them up to have some sort of work privacy and AC control....

PM PG

**muted** · 08-28-2019, 11:40 AM

Just a dumb question i knew the answer of but didn't like it, ha. Drywallers come Saturday I hop, batts go up Friday.....

Any of you experts recommend wood walls in commercial building? I know the fire inspector may not like it, but we have a work area that will take a thrashing and I'm considering a beefier wall in this work area. nicely sanded plywood seems to be trendy and would look good, but I don't want to install top-of-the-line boards that will get knicked and dinged via storage equipment. My question is mainly fire issues, is there anything that won't easily burn quick in a fire without paying a lot? What would an architect recommend for this space?

**glademaster** · 08-28-2019, 12:02 PM

Originally Posted by muted

Just a dumb question i knew the answer of but didn't like it, ha. Drywallers come Saturday I hop, batts go up Friday.....

Any of you experts recommend wood walls in commercial building? I know the fire inspector may not like it, but we have a work area that will take a thrashing and I'm considering a beefier wall in this work area. nicely sanded plywood seems to be trendy and would look good, but I don't want to install top-of-the-line boards that will get knicked and dinged via storage equipment. My question is mainly fire issues, is there anything that won't easily burn quick in a fire without paying a lot? What would an architect recommend for this space?

Does the wall in question need a certain fire rating to comply with building code (i.e. is it a party wall, occupancy separation, part of an exit enclosure assembly, etc.)? You should be able to make it work, but more info is required for an accurate answer.

**nickwm21** · 08-28-2019, 12:03 PM

Originally Posted by muted

Just a dumb question i knew the answer of but didn't like it, ha. Drywallers come Saturday I hop, batts go up Friday.....

Any of you experts recommend wood walls in commercial building? I know the fire inspector may not like it, but we have a work area that will take a thrashing and I'm considering a beefier wall in this work area. nicely sanded plywood seems to be trendy and would look good, but I don't want to install top-of-the-line boards that will get knicked and dinged via storage equipment. My question is mainly fire issues, is there anything that won't easily burn quick in a fire without paying a lot? What would an architect recommend for this space?

Fire rated 3/4” acx on top of drywall is standard for commercial construction comm rooms and misc back-of-house spaces. They make fire rated paint for plywood as well. I wouldn’t hang non-rated wood in a commercial building.... but fire rated ply will be expensive. More cost effective would be plastic/HDPE/FRP wall panels. Cheap ones will look like a run down gas station bathroom. Nice / architectural ones will be more expensive than rated wood.

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**muted** · 08-28-2019, 12:25 PM

Originally Posted by glademaster

Does the wall in question need a certain fire rating to comply with building code (i.e. is it a party wall, occupancy separation, part of an exit enclosure assembly, etc.)? You should be able to make it work, but more info is required for an accurate answer.

Wall is something we just put up, separates two rooms internally. not an outside wall, no other occupants other than us.

Originally Posted by nickwm21

Fire rated 3/4” acx on top of drywall is standard for commercial construction comm rooms and misc back-of-house spaces. They make fire rated paint for plywood as well. I wouldn’t hang non-rated wood in a commercial building.... but fire rated ply will be expensive. More cost effective would be plastic/HDPE/FRP wall panels. Cheap ones will look like a run down gas station bathroom. Nice / architectural ones will be more expensive than rated wood.

Any idea why the drywall needs to be installed too? Jong-question but i'm curious.

Thanks much, I may go with Fire rated 3/4” acx on the bottom half of the wall only to save money now. I can't find these boards on Lowes/HD, and local lumber yard doesn't look like they have them. Where do people buy these things?

**::: :::** · 08-28-2019, 12:43 PM

Originally Posted by muted

Just a dumb question i knew the answer of but didn't like it, ha. Drywallers come Saturday I hop, batts go up Friday.....

Any of you experts recommend wood walls in commercial building? I know the fire inspector may not like it, but we have a work area that will take a thrashing and I'm considering a beefier wall in this work area. nicely sanded plywood seems to be trendy and would look good, but I don't want to install top-of-the-line boards that will get knicked and dinged via storage equipment. My question is mainly fire issues, is there anything that won't easily burn quick in a fire without paying a lot? What would an architect recommend for this space?

I'm guessing you can likely do whatever you want interior finish wise, but there are certainly cases where smoke/fire resistant materials are required. Your local building department likely could answer your question, but they will ask a bunch of building-scale questions to dig down to the right answer.

Does the space have fire sprinklers? If it does & you are talking about walls that aren't demising walls, you're likely pretty good.

**::: :::** · 08-28-2019, 12:50 PM

Originally Posted by muted

Wall is something we just put up, separates two rooms internally. not an outside wall, no other occupants other than us.

likely you're ok [tho technically a full partition would require a permit, fyi, to deal with exiting at the very least]

Originally Posted by muted

Any idea why the drywall needs to be installed too? Jong-question but i'm curious.

it is a better wall from a fire/smoke perspective

Originally Posted by muted

Thanks much, I may go with Fire rated 3/4” acx on the bottom half of the wall only to save money now. I can't find these boards on Lowes/HD, and local lumber yard doesn't look like they have them. Where do people buy these things?

i wouldn't until i had a hard answer saying it was required...cheaper to just replace dinged sheetrock, or bumper pieces of plywood or put up FRP

**nickwm21** · 08-28-2019, 01:08 PM

Originally Posted by muted

Wall is something we just put up, separates two rooms internally. not an outside wall, no other occupants other than us.

Any idea why the drywall needs to be installed too? Jong-question but i'm curious.

Thanks much, I may go with Fire rated 3/4” acx on the bottom half of the wall only to save money now. I can't find these boards on Lowes/HD, and local lumber yard doesn't look like they have them. Where do people buy these things?

In a traditional use the drywall is there for insulation and fire rating, the ply is there to mount stuff and protect. For your use you could just mount the ply to the studs no issue....

You will have to make a phone call to the lumber yard and talk the salesman. They sell it. It’s just likely not stocked.

For your use, I agree with others that it likely isn’t required to be fire rated. I’d still install the fire rated stuff just for peace of mind and to avoid going down the rabbit hole with the building Dept.

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**El Chupacabra** · 08-28-2019, 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by nickwm21

My laundry room gets hot as fuck. Probably 15deg hotter than the rest of the house. Combination of three issues best I can tell:

1) There is a large window that faces west and gets blasted by sun in the afternoon. Any advice on insulating shades? (cellular shades, solar shades, etc...). Are they worth a damn?

2) The water heater is in there, naked. I wonder if I frame it in, rigid insulation, make it look like a cabinet.... would that make a difference? I think the window is more of the issue...

3) Washer / dryer heatin it up. Nothing really I can do there. I think the issues above are more the cause...

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Our old house had a west-facing set of windows upstairs, with no exterior shading (trees etc). Got ridiculously hot in summer. Prior owners had tinted the windows and installed interior shuttered doors -- that helped a little but it still got hot. We added exterior solar screens, which helped a lot -- they go in place of the exterior bug screens, and also function as bug screens. Install in spring in place of bug screens; swap back out in fall.

Old house also had those cellular pull-down window coverings in a couple rooms. They seem to work OK for insulation, but they all tore or broke within a couple years of moving in. They're opaque too -- light passes through but can't see through. I didn't like the look that much, so replaced with traditional blinds.

An additional layer of tape-on insulation on the water heater wouldn't hurt anything, and might help. Also insulate the hot pipe + flex hose coming out of the tank.

**skaredshtles** · 08-28-2019, 01:20 PM

Double-wall cellular shades. They work. We have a shitload of west-facing windows in our house and very little tree-provided shade on that side of the house. Close the windows & shades in the morning and house stays cool enough to not use the A/C. I'd suspect you'll see a *big* improvement from installing them on that window.

**muted** · 08-28-2019, 02:17 PM

Originally Posted by acinpdx

likely you're ok [tho technically a full partition would require a permit, fyi, to deal with exiting at the very least]

it is a better wall from a fire/smoke perspective

i wouldn't until i had a hard answer saying it was required...cheaper to just replace dinged sheetrock, or bumper pieces of plywood or put up FRP

Thanks!

Originally Posted by nickwm21

In a traditional use the drywall is there for insulation and fire rating, the ply is there to mount stuff and protect. For your use you could just mount the ply to the studs no issue....

You will have to make a phone call to the lumber yard and talk the salesman. They sell it. It’s just likely not stocked.

For your use, I agree with others that it likely isn’t required to be fire rated. I’d still install the fire rated stuff just for peace of mind and to avoid going down the rabbit hole with the building Dept.

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I'm the same, even if it's not required I'd like my place to burn as slowly as possible, if it catches fire. And thanks, will call one...

**zion zig zag** · 08-28-2019, 02:29 PM

Originally Posted by muted

Thanks!

I'm the same, even if it's not required I'd like my place to burn as slowly as possible, if it catches fire. And thanks, will call one...

Meh, airflow spreads fire. Pretty much any wall material you choose will hold the fire to that room until the fire department arrives if you control flow paths.