Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

**MontuckyFried** · 05-25-2021, 05:39 AM

Originally Posted by fatnslow

I do have an angle grinder so maybe I can just use it to cut my fuel line to add that auxiliary fuel pump ?

Please don't do that.

**fatnslow** · 05-25-2021, 07:49 AM

Originally Posted by MontuckyFried

Please don't do that.

Maybe I'll have to take up smoking again and have a heater in my mouth while firing up the grinder on the fuel line ?
Even the world's second worst mechanic like me wouldn't try that !

**El Chupacabra** · 05-25-2021, 07:51 AM

Originally Posted by Thaleia

Hey thanks for the advice, it is greatly appreciated.

Yes, bolt is in place of a pin. It must thread into the bike rack since there is no nut on the opposite side.

Attachment 375526

This is the sheared off side, no nut on the other side.

I know those extractors a little too well - given how 'stuck' it is I can't see it working with my skill level.

I'm thinking of two options at this point - mechanic to remove all, or maybe spend some time with a grinder (thanks MTM) and cut the bike rack portion off which will allow me to possibly see if I can then get at the bolt from the inside of the carrier.

Is that a Thule T2? Ours has a bolt that threads into the rack on one side, where the hitch pin would fit. On the inside of the rack is a nut that is spot welded in place - that is what the bolt threads into.

Can you see inside the rack part that is inserted into the hitch? If you can see the nut welded in place, I wonder if you would be able to reach the spot welds with a Dremel extension (flex shaft) and cut into the welds enough such that you can just hammer the broken stub - - still attached to the nut - - into the inside of the rack. And then simply wiggle out the broken parts.

**Thaleia** · 05-25-2021, 12:57 PM

Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Is that a Thule T2? Ours has a bolt that threads into the rack on one side, where the hitch pin would fit. On the inside of the rack is a nut that is spot welded in place - that is what the bolt threads into.

Can you see inside the rack part that is inserted into the hitch? If you can see the nut welded in place, I wonder if you would be able to reach the spot welds with a Dremel extension (flex shaft) and cut into the welds enough such that you can just hammer the broken stub - - still attached to the nut - - into the inside of the rack. And then simply wiggle out the broken parts.

It's a Thule Apex 2 xt. Can't see in side but the spot welded nut is exactly what I expect is in there. I think I'm going to try some surgery in a bit..

**MontuckyFried** · 05-25-2021, 01:08 PM

Originally Posted by Thaleia

It's a Thule Apex 2 xt. Can't see in side but the spot welded nut is exactly what I expect is in there. I think I'm going to try some surgery in a bit..

Did some quick googling for ya, and seems the general consensus for this problem is basically to drill it out. Someone said to center punch a nice spot square in the middle, drill (going slow and constantly lubing/cooling the bit), work your way up to bigger bits, taking care not to hit the threads on the hitch, and eventually you can pop out whatever remains with a hammer/punch, pliers, or whatever it takes.

**Timberridge** · 05-25-2021, 01:20 PM

Originally Posted by MontuckyFried

Did some quick googling for ya, and seems the general consensus for this problem is basically to drill it out. Someone said to center punch a nice spot square in the middle, drill (going slow and constantly lubing/cooling the bit), work your way up to bigger bits, taking care not to hit the threads on the hitch, and eventually you can pop out whatever remains with a hammer/punch, pliers, or whatever it takes.

That's how we used to break into safes before our friend Jimmy got busted and did hard time.

**Skidog** · 05-25-2021, 01:59 PM

Originally Posted by MontuckyFried

Did some quick googling for ya, and seems the general consensus for this problem is basically to drill it out. Someone said to center punch a nice spot square in the middle, drill (going slow and constantly lubing/cooling the bit), work your way up to bigger bits, taking care not to hit the threads on the hitch, and eventually you can pop out whatever remains with a hammer/punch, pliers, or whatever it takes.

220, 221, whatever it takes.

**MontuckyFried** · 05-25-2021, 02:15 PM

Originally Posted by Skidog

220, 221, whatever it takes.

HA! Love that movie.

**El Chupacabra** · 05-25-2021, 02:18 PM

Originally Posted by MontuckyFried

Did some quick googling for ya, and seems the general consensus for this problem is basically to drill it out. Someone said to center punch a nice spot square in the middle, drill (going slow and constantly lubing/cooling the bit), work your way up to bigger bits, taking care not to hit the threads on the hitch, and eventually you can pop out whatever remains with a hammer/punch, pliers, or whatever it takes.

That is so much easier said than done. Drilling out broken bolts really sucks.

Grinding or cutting is much faster, if at all possible.

**Thaleia** · 05-25-2021, 02:22 PM

Well shit, wasn't expecting it to be solid.

Click image for larger version.

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Thanks for the research MF, drilling it out is looking like my only option. We're still in lockdown here, might take a bit of time to get my hands on some better drill bits.

**MontuckyFried** · 05-25-2021, 03:29 PM

Originally Posted by Thaleia

Well shit, wasn't expecting it to be solid.

Thanks for the research MF, drilling it out is looking like my only option. We're still in lockdown here, might take a bit of time to get my hands on some better drill bits.

OMG! Good luck getting THAT bastard out of there. Gnarly!

**MontuckyFried** · 05-25-2021, 03:30 PM

Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

That is so much easier said than done. Drilling out broken bolts really sucks.

Grinding or cutting is much faster, if at all possible.

Sure, but did you see his pic? There's pretty much nothing left to cut or grind. It's gonna be teh suckage to remove either way.

**MakersTeleMark** · 05-25-2021, 03:35 PM

I think it's pretty clear what needs to be done at this point.

Plasma torch the vehicle.

**basinbeater** · 05-25-2021, 09:22 PM

Oh man, you're fucked. Someone mentioned it before, a bfh. Soak it with penetrating oil, whack it with a big hammer, hit it with a torch, soak it in pentrating oil, whack it with a bfh, hit it with a torch. Repeat. Gonna have to grind a slot in it. Uh, careful with the grinder... Barrier between grinder and fuel lines...
If it was me, I'd probably turn my focus to the trailer hitch bolts, and start with... Wait for it... Penetrating oil, hit it with a big fucking hammer, heat it. Repeat, until you can break the bolt loose.
That looks like a nightmare. My projects all look easy now... Thanks.

Fyi, the penetrating oil, heat, and critically, the bfh, all serve to break up the rust in the threads. Tales time, but that is how I have gotten gnarly bolts out. But that looks fucked.

sent from Utah.

**snowaddict91** · 05-25-2021, 09:24 PM

^yup. I'd say you need a new hitch now. No way you're getting that out of there with nothing to put leverage on.

**Thaleia** · 05-25-2021, 11:09 PM

No worries. Shit situation (and stupid hours put in so far - sorry neighbors for the hours of grinding and pounding noises) but I appreciate that this is a low risk repair. Car runs etc lol. If I fuck it up then I look at removing the hitch. Already scoped that out, a grinder in some tight spots will be able to remove resolve seized shit, probably easier than removing this thing from the hitch. The way the hitch is mounted I have access to both sides of it's bolts/nuts. It's vertically mounted sorta behind the fuel tank squeezed up to the bumper, not horizontal along the sub frame.

**niknoid** · 05-26-2021, 05:43 AM

Consider taking off the hitch and setting up your hydrologic jack to try and passed that sht out of there.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

**basinbeater** · 05-26-2021, 11:55 AM

Originally Posted by niknoid

Consider taking off the hitch and setting up your hydrologic jack to try and passed that sht out of there.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

Take pics and preemptively prepare a post of the Darwin thread just in case...

sent from Utah.

**MakersTeleMark** · 05-26-2021, 11:58 AM

Shoot the hostage.

**El Chupacabra** · 05-26-2021, 12:07 PM

Cutting off the bike rack insert flush with the receiver was a bad idea.

Was that insert steel or aluminum? 2" or 1 1/4"? I would not expect a bike rack insert to be solid steel if 2".

**MakersTeleMark** · 05-26-2021, 12:16 PM

Blow up the car.

**warthog** · 05-26-2021, 09:16 PM

Apparently, this is THE shit for getting stuck stuff unstuck.
Your case would prove that theory. Not cheap, but the best mechanics and marine guys I know swear by this stuff.
https://www.kroil.com/?gclid=EAIaIQo...iAAEgJEVvD_BwE

**stealurface831** · 05-26-2021, 09:21 PM

what in the fuck is going on here?

**warthog** · 05-26-2021, 09:23 PM

Well, I didn't have to change the fuel pump. It was (is?) the computer. Pulled it tonight. Couple good rust spots on the outer case. Rusty interior slot where the computer is housed. Corrosion on the connector is visible. Opened it up and there are at least 4 spots where the circuit board shows leakage, corrosion, and burns. I am sending it out to be rebuilt by a reputable company that guarantees their work. Man, I hate modern(ish) vehicles. Working on my CJ is sooooo much easier than this Bronco. I am learning a lot though, which is fun. If this had to be a daily driver, and it wasn't just a fun project, it would be a nightmare.