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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    1. Find a local suspension tuner who knows Cane Creek well, or just dump the CCDB shock in favor of a Monarch+ RC3 or Float X EVOL (and get that shock set up properly for your weight). You didn't mention whether you have an Inline or reservoir shock, but for long sustained descents the reservoir is the way to go, and the larger air cans on the latest Fox/Rock Shock shocks are way better than what was available when the Bronson1 was shipping. Avalanche is in CO, do they do Cane Creek?
    Coincidentally, I have a Monarch Plus RC3, just overhauled by Dirtlabs, that I will be selling as soon as I get photos taken and details posted. It is the right size for a gen 1 or 2 Bronson - 200mm x 57mm. I have no idea if it's the correct tune - it is Medium/Medium. It worked well on my Reign.

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by skideeppow View Post
    . They only make a 30% margin in bikes, but think about that. $6,000 bike plus all the service down the road. That has to hurt.
    I hear not only are they are only making 20% on a Yeti it comes un assembled so they gotta pay the mechanic to put it all all together so the high priced stuff may not be as big a money maker as the cheaper brands so if you wana make money ... sell Giants

    new bikes have new geometry and at some point the new parts make a generational leap in quality and operation

    which is why I say OP should ride some and see if one speaks to him which is different than listening to a buncha fucking dentists geeking on a BB
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalated View Post
    Coincidentally, I have a Monarch Plus RC3, it is Medium/Medium.
    I’m not home right now so can’t check mine, but I think m/m is fine for normal sized riders ... the e-opinion majority seems to be lighter Bronson riders will do better with medium/low or low/low.

    But again, that needle bearing kit will change so much ... I actually got a few chain drops after installing it because my suspension was so much more active and free for chainstay length to change acceleration of growth/shrinkage so much more quickly.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    1. Find a local suspension tuner who knows Cane Creek well, or just dump the CCDB shock in favor of a Monarch+ RC3 or Float X EVOL (and get that shock set up properly for your weight). You didn't mention whether you have an Inline or reservoir shock, but for long sustained descents the reservoir is the way to go, and the larger air cans on the latest Fox/Rock Shock shocks are way better than what was available when the Bronson1 was shipping. Avalanche is in CO, do they do Cane Creek?
    This. Or trade that shock to someone who loves it. Its best feature is it's adjustability. It's worst feature is it's adjustability. Those shocks take a lot longer to get right and can be a lot more wrong when they're wrong. Probably the reason for this thread.

  5. #80
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    Zactly. Had this dentist said, I want longer, lower slacker and I have money to light on fire I’d have said go all out.

    But he said he wants a plush descending right that doesn’t drag on the uphill, and guess what, a tricked out Bronson v1 CC with that build is one of the lighter climbing 150mm bikes you can build! The newer bikes with wider through axles, wider rims, big tires and longer frames are gonna be heavier than the 2015 Bronson CC with Enve wheels.

    And while there are plusher descending options like a Capra or Nomad, I’m guessing this entire thread is based around an improper CCDB tune or a busted shock.

    Also, the Pike isn’t the plushest thing ever but a properly maintained and tuned 2015 Pike should still be regarded as very good but missing “x” ... not, “not plush.”
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    But he said he wants a plush descending right that doesn’t drag on the uphill, and guess what, a tricked out Bronson v1 CC with that build is one of the lighter climbing 150mm bikes you can build! The newer bikes with wider through axles, wider rims, big tires and longer frames are gonna be heavier than the 2015 Bronson CC with Enve wheels.
    This is kind of what I was trying to get at. The idea that a bike that’s only a few years old is obsolete is laughable. Sorry bike industry, but no.
    I ski 135 degree chutes switch to the road.

  7. #82
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    You could just throw on one of those garbaruk 10-46 cassettes(quality control seems to be a bit better than the e13) and a works components headset(I like 65 or 65.5 degree head angle on my trail bike). I have 28t ring with 11-46 on my scout and I’m rarely wishing I had a 9 or 10 on my cassette. I have a 26 x 10-42 on my free ride bike and I wouldn’t mind a 30 or 32 x 10-50 for hitting some of the bigger jumps that need speed, but so far that’s it.
    Those years of Santa Cruz don’t fit me at all. Short top tube and longer chainstays is opposite of what my long torso short leg length fit. Something to consider. Love the fit of my scout. My rune has a touch shortertop tube, lil higher B.B., lil longer chain stay and not as much stand over. No comparison for fit , feel and fun between the two(for me). A few different measurements can make a dif. 5 or 6 different measurements is considerable, even when each measurement is a huge difference

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    I’m not home right now so can’t check mine, but I think m/m is fine for normal sized riders ... the e-opinion majority seems to be lighter Bronson riders will do better with medium/low or low/low.
    Competitive Cyclist set up mine with an L/L Monarch Plus. But I also weigh 140 lbs with pack, and this was a custom build ... But I can’t remember if they customized the shock or if that’s what SC gave them to clear out the frames when the Bronson 2 came out. I had a lot of back and forth with CC on the build specs.


    Quote Originally Posted by TahoeJ View Post
    This is kind of what I was trying to get at. The idea that a bike that’s only a few years old is obsolete is laughable. Sorry bike industry, but no.
    Sure, the OP’s bike is not obsolete, I agree. That doesn’t mean there aren’t better matched frames out there to suit him or that updated geo won’t make a big difference - it may or may not depending on the rider and application.

    I think almost everyone here agrees though the reported symptoms indicate that he should debug his current setup before abandoning to another choice. Again, unless he has absolute stupid cash to burn, in which case someone here should made a killing buying the OP’s shitty obsolete bike from him at cents on the dollar ...
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  9. #84
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    His bike could be a perfect fit , without knowing his dimensions . I’d still want a taller gear and slacker ha regardless. Wouldn’t want to slacken the sa any so the works headset is better than offset bushings or shorter e2e shocks
    I didn’t vary my cc double barrel much from recommended(I think a touch more rebound was my personal pref). I really like the cc dB coil . The air not quite as much. For air I preferred the rs and/or fox

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalated View Post
    Coincidentally, I have a Monarch Plus RC3, just overhauled by Dirtlabs, that I will be selling as soon as I get photos taken and details posted. It is the right size for a gen 1 or 2 Bronson - 200mm x 57mm. I have no idea if it's the correct tune - it is Medium/Medium. It worked well on my Reign.
    Bronson 1 you really want a L/L to be plush on the descents, especially based on his comments on it not being plush right now.... but the tune can be changed pretty easily. I (185 lbs) tried a M/L and it was too lively and stiff and had the tune changed by Squish Dynamics in Oregon to the L/L. Night and Day better with the L/L.

    Then put some volume spacers in and run more sag for an even plusher feel.

    This is a RS Monarch Plus Debonair - I love this shock on the Bronson and it's cheap/available and easy to service. I had a CC DB Inline and just could never get it right, and it never lasted a full season and is expensive to service.

    Also, 160mm Pike up front changed my life. Makes it a much, much better descender and doesn't really affect the climbing. Also, volume spacers in the Pike too.

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by sethschmautz View Post
    Before you go down the route of buying a $300 cassette, you should do some gear ratio analysis (provided below). I would also strongly suggest against "upgrading" from an 11-speed drivetrain to a 10-speed drivetrain. I ride a 32x11-46 10 speed drivetrain and it works great. However, when I just replaced my rear derailleur I replaced with an 11-speed drerailleur because although I like my 10-speed drivetrain, the 11-speed will provide closer gear spacing which becomes more important as your cassette range gets wider. This is the only compelling argument IMO for going to Eagle, but I don't think it's strong enough for the cost.
    "Going down to 10" is referring to the smallest cassette cog gearing. He thought he had 11T, but in all likelihood he has 10T already.

    10-42t x 28t is virtually the same as 11-46t x 30t, btw.

    Regardless, there are plenty of people running wide range 10spd still, including myself.

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Snow View Post
    "Going down to 10" is referring to the smallest cassette cog gearing. He thought he had 11T, but in all likelihood he has 10T already.

    10-42t x 28t is virtually the same as 11-46t x 30t, btw.

    Regardless, there are plenty of people running wide range 10spd still, including myself.
    Thanks for the correction, I think that several other people previously made this observation also.

    I'm also running wide range 10spd, but I'd trade for 11 or 12 if I had the opportunity.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app

  13. #88
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    great info, thanks for the schooling. Ordered the RWC needle bearing kit , and talked to the shop and they are going to have the shock tuned at the service center. Having the pike overhauled and serviced as well.

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by ridinshockgun View Post
    Also, 160mm Pike up front changed my life. Makes it a much, much better descender and doesn't really affect the climbing. Also, volume spacers in the Pike too.
    I should have included this with my other comments about the v1 Bronson. I upgraded to a 160mm Pike, which does indeed make the bike more slack (I think by 1 degree?)... which is probably / maybe why the new v3 Bronson didn't seem all that much different to me. Totally agree that doing that made it feel like a completely new bike on descents. Whether or not the extended reach on the v3 is a good thing is personal preference, since we all have different body geometry regardless of riding the same size frame. Although it seems like most people tend to like it.

  15. #90
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    Awesome, hopefully you get to report back on findings before every fun trail is under snow. Getting the needle bearing kit plus reworking your fork and shock all at the same time is a lot of variables all at once. Best thing to do is probably hit up a small trail network with a short segment you can hit multiple times to try to dial in air pressure, compression and rebound settings. The needle bearing with the proper compression tune should allow you to feel comfy at 30% rear sag vs most people saying you need 35% on Bronson1 to feel plush. From what I recall the bike climbs so much better at 28-30% sag than at 35%. Lots of tuning variables that all affect each other, if you are overwhelmed then the best thing to do is to offer beer to ride with someone who knows suspension really well for a day and have them ask you questions after each trail segment. Lift served is great for this as well, if that’s still an option. I haven’t used that Cane Creek app, but I’m sure it will help!

    Good luck, and if all else fails, you can still burn your cash on a new bike
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    Awesome, hopefully you get to report back on findings before every fun trail is under snow. Getting the needle bearing kit plus reworking your fork and shock all at the same time is a lot of variables all at once. Best thing to do is probably hit up a small trail network with a short segment you can hit multiple times to try to dial in air pressure, compression and rebound settings. The needle bearing with the proper compression tune should allow you to feel comfy at 30% rear sag vs most people saying you need 35% on Bronson1 to feel plush. From what I recall the bike climbs so much better at 28-30% sag than at 35%. Lots of tuning variables that all affect each other, if you are overwhelmed then the best thing to do is to offer beer to ride with someone who knows suspension really well for a day and have them ask you questions after each trail segment. Lift served is great for this as well, if that’s still an option. I haven’t used that Cane Creek app, but I’m sure it will help!

    Good luck, and if all else fails, you can still burn your cash on a new bike
    Thanks one last question. Looks like that needle bearing kit has some specific tools in order to install. Is this stuff standard at a bike shop or do I need to order that for the shop? I guess i could call the shop and ask.

  17. #92
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    Also, when's the last time you replaced your pivot bearings? If you're going to do needle bearings on the shock, definitely make sure the pivot bearings are new.

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    The needle bearing with the proper compression tune should allow you to feel comfy at 30% rear sag vs most people saying you need 35% on Bronson1 to feel plush. From what I recall the bike climbs so much better at 28-30% sag than at 35%.
    This is something that I may try on my v1 tallboy also. The custom tune on my DPS treat shock sure helped but I find myself in the same spot - in order for it to feel plush it's a little softer than I like for climbing. When it is a little stiffer for climbing it loses its small bump compliance. Maybe the needle bearing kit would improve this.

    Seth

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by sethschmautz View Post
    This is something that I may try on my v1 tallboy also. The custom tune on my DPS treat shock sure helped but I find myself in the same spot - in order for it to feel plush it's a little softer than I like for climbing. When it is a little stiffer for climbing it loses its small bump compliance. Maybe the needle bearing kit would improve this.

    Seth
    I think your money would be better spent on a Vorsprung Corset.

    Edit: Nevermind, doesn't look like they have it for your shock size.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    I think your money would be better spent on a Vorsprung Corset.

    Edit: Nevermind, doesn't look like they have it for your shock size.
    I looked at that a while back. From what I read it sounded like you need to set it up with more sag and the it might not be a good fit for people who like a stiffer ride. I have a whopping 1.5" of shock travel and running more sag sounded like I would end up with less mid and deep travel itself. 100mm is small as it is, I can't imagine having less. :-)

    With that in mind, I would be interested in hearing other interpretations of what the corset does. My interpretation is purely based on what I've read, not on actual hands on experience.

    Seth

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  21. #96
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    Another drivetrain suggestion would be to put on a 30t oval. You'll get a high gear back and the oval will definitely make steep stuff a little easier in the 42t.

  22. #97
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    The Corset is all hype/bling. Just add some volume spacers if you need a smaller air volume. Heck, Rockshox went to a larger air spring volume in it's rear shocks 4 years ago.

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Snow View Post
    The Corset is all hype/bling. Just add some volume spacers if you need a smaller air volume. Heck, Rockshox went to a larger air spring volume in it's rear shocks 4 years ago.
    You seem pretty confident. Do you have one?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by sethschmautz View Post
    With that in mind, I would be interested in hearing other interpretations of what the corset does. My interpretation is purely based on what I've read, not on actual hands on experience.
    No personal experience. Evol is the same idea, tweaking the negative volume to reduce the beginning travel spring rate. They talk about the VPP digressive-progressive LR on their site.

    https://vorsprungsuspension.com/blog...-with-my-frame
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  25. #100
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    Unless I missed it...

    I can't believe we've got this far without one "N+1!"

    The answer to the bike (and ski) question is ALWAYS: N+1!
    It makes perfect sense...until you think about it.

    I suspect there's logic behind the madness, but I'm too dumb to see it.

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