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  1. #151
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    Ha dfinn, I'm looking at getting new cells for a thinkbook convertible I bought from you in the snowbird parking lot a long time ago. Planning on setting it up as a music box for the basement workshop.

  2. #152
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    That's sweet! I definitely have no memory of that but that doesn't surprise me.

  3. #153
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    I've still got those old blue house skis I bought from you back in the day banging around in the garage. I should turn them into a shelf to put broken stereo equipment on.

    You may solve your crackling issue with deoxit, and it may sound ok, but if it hasn't been recapped, some new caps will bring it to life. Also, the old ads speakers probably have electrolytic capacitors in the crossovers, and surely those could stand to be replaced as well. I had a pair of old bang and olufsen speakers that sounded 'ok', but new caps in the crossovers made a huge improvement.

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  4. #154
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    I forget where I read it but something I came across said the speakers use a film type cap that doesn't need to be replaced. They also used rubber surrounds which seem to be holding up really well.

    Were those BH skis the District?

    Anyone have recommendations on places I might be able to ship this old Pioneer to to get some lovin? Looks like we have a local place here in SLC that is highly recommended but they are 9 months out. I'm looking at Just Audio in Baltimore.

  5. #155
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    So my remote control for my very low end but newish Yamaha home theatre receiver doesn't seem to have any affect suddenly. Assuming it's the remote, obviously first thing I did was change the batteries. No luck with new ones. Tested the batteries voltage and they're good. Disconnected the unit from power, reconnected, no change.

    Then I noticed when I press buttons on this otherwise not working remote, one of the LEDs on my iptv box flashes, indicating to me that the remote is putting out some sort of signal, but the receiver isn't 'reading' that signal.

    Contacted Yamaha with this info and their response was literally "this is the part number for a new remote, call us with credit card to order a new one". I was hoping for some trouble shooting since the remote seems to be doing something but no.

    Next I found my old Harmony 1 programmable remote from Logitech. Set it up for the receiver and still nothing.

    Tried downloading their app that interfaces with the receiver but my model is one unit too low to support that feature.

    Is it common for a receiver to lose the capacity to receive the signal from the remote?

  6. #156
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    Your Pioneer could be suffering from a speaker relay going out. My Pioneer 1010 was doing the same stuff, one channel popped & crackled, then would drop out only to re-appear later. Local tech. guy fixed that & a few resistors he didn't like for around a hundred bucks. Some capacitors are likely not in spec but unless they're distorting (shape) leaking, or tops starting to bulge, they're probably acceptable. Would certainly improve it to recap and it's a beautiful piece to invest in if it's a keeper.

  7. #157
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    I'm pretty sure I'll be sending it out somewhere for repair. I wouldn't say it's in pristine condition but it's pretty damn clean for being 50 years old. The guy I bought it from was cool about it, he gave me back half what I paid for it so I'm only into it for about $80. I'm ok with investing that $100 and maybe a little more back into it to get it working.

  8. #158
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    I dig into my krell today. It was free, so can't complain. Guy said it had some distortion in the highs. One channel is blown, and has super high offset. The other 4 channels play ok, but pass a weird looking signal. There is econd order harmonic distortion in there signal, which is apparently a desireable feature of some amps. There is a bit of disgortion that shows up at higher frequencies, and is a known problem with this showcase series amplifier. There are 3 electrolytic caps that apparently suffer from heat and cause this. So I ordered up a bunch of caps. I've not done much with surface mount soldering, so this will be an interesting challenge. Krell will not release the schematic, and there are a bazillion little surface mount diodes and transistor on the driver board for each amp module, so repairing the broken amp may be beyond my capacity. But fixing up the other four should be doable. Transformer is fucking huge. Case is beautifully made. We'll see if she sounds any good, or if I need to rip the amps out and build something custom.
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    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  9. #159
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    It’s actually pretty awesome how well documented this owners manual is for this 50 year old Pioneer. Full wiring diagrams and also a break down by circuit board of the components on each board.

  10. #160
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    Those service manuals are super handy. I found one for an old bang and olufsen in a proper enveloped taped to the inside of a wooden case.

    I wish I could find one for this krell. But they sit pretty tight on their stuff. Don't like to let it out.
    That said, I did fix and adjust 4 of the 5 amplifier modules in my Krell Showcase amplifier. I reached e capacitors per amp module that suffer from the heat generated by this unit. I popped one open, and it was dry as a bone. There was severe crossover distortion. Replacing these caps on all 4 boards fixed the issue on each case. Adjust bias, and close it up. It now has 4 good channels. The 5th channel has very high dc at the output. So... Something is wrong. But I can't find a circuit diagram. I may try to draw it up. Should be feasible with the power board, but the driver board is so damn small and has a shitload of small diodes and transistors.
    The waveform pics below are before and after repair.
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    sent from Utah.
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  11. #161
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    A couple more pics of before and after illustrating the crossover distortion and the resulting waveform after the fix.
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    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  12. #162
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    Nice work! I wish I had one of those scopes. Its obvious to hear when this receiver goes into it's f'ed up mode but it would be cool to see it visually. Not sure it would help me troubleshoot much though. It would be cool to have for after the fact to know if it's 100% fixed or not.

  13. #163
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    I should have noticed last night working on it, but I didn't... While I was playing around with the broken board, I noticed that several of the output transistors had dry/cracked solder joints. Bad enough they would wiggle sliggtly. If several are loose on one board, what are the odds that several are bad on the good boards... Odds are good, and about 50% are dry/cracked. So... Reflow time.

    Dfinn, this could be an issue on your pioneer as well. Click image for larger version. 

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    sent from Utah.
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  14. #164
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    I have found a couple that look suspect and I've touched them up, no change so far. I'm thinking if it was something like that then the problem would happen all the time. But its intermittent which is only making it harder to track down.

  15. #165
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    Get it working dfinn?

    I took on another project. Snagged a parasound hca 1205a t channel amp for $100 that goes into protect sporadically. There are bad capacitors on each amplifier board, so I will replace all electrolytics on each board for around 30 total. On the protection circuitry, there was a bunch of nasty old brown glue on the board. They use the glue to make sure the larger capacitors stick down real well and don't vibrate and cause problems. However the glue turns corrosive and conductive as it dries out and ages. It can also creep into components like diodes resistors capacitors and transistors through the corroded legs. So basically, this shit sucks and fucks up circuits. I have scraped it all off and am building a list of parts to replace. Unfortunately the transistors are unobtainium now, but I think I can find decent substitutes, or hopefully the transistors are ok. On the power control/protection board, I will replace all components that have corrosion issues except for the transistors, and see if that does the trick. If it still has issues I will replace the transistors as well.
    This is supposed to be a nice sounding amp for home theater, with 5 channels and lots of power. It has jfet input transistors, zero capacitors in the audio signal portion of the amp, a beefy transformer and independent power supplies located on each board. It seems to be a high end circuit and power supply, but it is built like a budget amp. These were not cheap, and the money was clearly all spent on the audio and power supply sections, and not on the case. The build quality of the case is nowhere near the same as the krell, but I suspect it will be able to hold its own sonically. We will see if I can get this one sorted.

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    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  16. #166
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    No, thought I was making some progress yesterday afternoon and then managed to make things worse with some smoke and a little fire. Some of the components on the main amp board now look a bit like your picture.

    I'm gonna box it up and send it to a guy in Twin Falls who seems well regarded and isn't backed up for months. I decided this thing is too old and rare for me to be learning-as-I-go on.

  17. #167
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    I picked up another old silver face. These things are kind of addicting. This one was a good-but-not-great deal from a local guy. He had bought it in Japan when he was in the service and brought it back with him. I told him I didn't want the speakers but he said it was a package deal or no deal at all. The guy took amazing care of these, hardly a scratch on them. When I pulled away with them he had a look on his face like I was driving away with one of his children, never to be seen again.



    I put new LEDs in and cleaned up all the pots with deoxit, I was getting some static when using them. All good now.



    I told him I didn't want the speakers based on some things I read online but I'll be damned if these things don't sound really good. They also weigh a ton. I may not end up keeping them but definitely enjoying them for now.


  18. #168
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    Damn that thing is a beauty! What model is it? Speakers appear well cared for...


    sent from Utah.
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  19. #169
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    It's a SX-850. Probably middle of the lineup for Pioneer back then but it does everything I need. 65 wpc which should be more than enough. I don't have a turntable or any vinyl (yet) but supposedly it has one of the better phono stages out there. I've got it hooked up to an Arylic S50 preamp/streamer and it sounds really good to me.

    I'm hoping to pair it with some speakers from Zu Audio, made up in Ogden.

  20. #170
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    You know, I've been meaning to check in on this thread. I have a powered subwoofer that has had a low level hum for ages. It has mostly sat there unplugged because it is just annoying when watching movies and it would be nice to repair it, but electronics repair has gone the way of the dodo.

    How would one with a very basic toolkit (multimeter, soldering iron that might still heat up, tiny screwdrivers, pokey stick) and a tiny bit of circuits knowledge go about attempting to diagnosis a fix here? It wasn't a horribly expensive sub either, probably $3-400 bucks back in the day, so it doesn't deserve extreme measures to save it.
    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

  21. #171
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    I had a SX-750 in storage and decided to put together a silver faced quad system with some unused stuff in a spare room, I may have listened to it once or twice and it's become more of a storage room now (the main system is in the living room). It sounds pretty good with 4 ESS speakers. I added a RtR after this was taken.

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  22. #172
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    Hell yeah refried! That's a lot of silver! What's under the turntable?

  23. #173
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    That's a Pioneer Quad adapter, I dug thru everything and found lots of it. I have some DBX stuff I could add but I never listen to that system

  24. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJSapp View Post
    You know, I've been meaning to check in on this thread. I have a powered subwoofer that has had a low level hum for ages. It has mostly sat there unplugged because it is just annoying when watching movies and it would be nice to repair it, but electronics repair has gone the way of the dodo.

    How would one with a very basic toolkit (multimeter, soldering iron that might still heat up, tiny screwdrivers, pokey stick) and a tiny bit of circuits knowledge go about attempting to diagnosis a fix here? It wasn't a horribly expensive sub either, probably $3-400 bucks back in the day, so it doesn't deserve extreme measures to save it.
    Dj, what frequency would the hum seem to be? Low frequency? 60hz maybe? Unplug the input to the sub. Still have the hum when you power it on? No? Problem is in the hookup, possible ground loop somewhere, could be the outlet it is powered by, could be somewhere else in the system. If your receiver is setup with a high pass filter on all the other speakers, the hum would be eliminated in those speakers by the filter, but present at the subwoofer because the sub is supposed to reproduce those low frequencies. Here is a decent link on different ways a 60hz hum can make it's way into a system.
    https://www.bluejeanscable.com/artic...woofer-hum.htm

    Unplugged input and hum is still there? Problem in the amp of the sub. Pop open the amp, take a look at the big power supply filter capacitors. Puffed up on the top? Leaking? When the ACv is converted to DCv, it is not a smooth dc. It is more spiky. The big filter caps smooth it out to produce clean dc for the amp. If those fail, you will get a 60hz hum. Look at every other electrolytic capacitor in the amp, look for bulging or leaking caps. Don't confuse glue with leaking caps. Look for corrosion on legs of components in the glue. The corrosion can get into semiconductors and screw em up. With the amp plugged in, and input shorted (this makes sure no stray signal is picked up while diagnosing), Connect your multimeter ground probe to ground on the amp. Switch to ac voltage, 20v or 2v range, and start poking around at the output of the amp. Do you detect any AC voltage? Start following the output stage of the amp back to the front. If your previously detected acv disappears, you've found your fault. Join hifiengine.com and look for a schematic of the sub.

    CAREFUL WITH AMPS AND POWER SUPPLIES. THE BIG CAPACITORS CAN UNLEASH HIGH VOLTAGE SHOCKS THAT CAN KILL YOU. BE EXTRA CAREFUL BEFORE YOU TOUCH ANYTHING WHEN IT IS POWERED UP.

    Here is what old capacitor glue looks like. I scrape it off, and use a small wire brush to clean corrosion off legs. See the corrosion on the other components. Ew.

    Second pic is an example of a bad bulging capacitor, one on the left. See the glue on the capacitors?

    Fwiw, I ended up replacing every single electrolytic capacitor in the amp and it made a HUGE difference in the overall sound of the amplifier. This was on a parasound 1205a.

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    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  25. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Dj, what frequency would the hum seem to be? Low frequency? 60hz maybe? Unplug the input to the sub. Still have the hum when you power it on?

    CAREFUL WITH AMPS AND POWER SUPPLIES. THE BIG CAPACITORS CAN UNLEASH HIGH VOLTAGE SHOCKS THAT CAN KILL YOU. BE EXTRA CAREFUL BEFORE YOU TOUCH ANYTHING WHEN IT IS POWERED UP.
    I haven't plugged it in for some years now. I remember the hum existing without the RCA connected and it was a steady drone, possibly 60hz. And yeah, the part about capacitors killing me is probably what kept me from really poking around in there. How do you safely test/discharge one before I stick my poker in there?

    I'll see if I can crack it open this evening and see if there is anything obviously wrong there.
    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

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