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Thread: Ask the experts
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01-29-2021, 11:30 AM #3401
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01-29-2021, 02:04 PM #3402
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01-29-2021, 02:49 PM #3403
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01-29-2021, 03:16 PM #3404
The problem with the Magic Motorcycle ones is proprietary, cnc’d chainrings that don’t fit anything else, IIRC.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
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01-29-2021, 08:26 PM #3405Registered User
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- Dec 2020
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- 679
I've never seen a BB like this - maybe there are some but all of Pressfit / T47 BBs we've installed have been 29mm ID bearings. Cane Creek, WheelsMFG, etc. Maybe some of the early SRAM ones are like this though.
Yep. Bought a set of these for my road bike, and then ordered a set for gravel and MTB as well. A few of our customers have them and are stoked. They use the SRAM 3 bolt pattern too, which is great for the mountain bike because there are a ton of existing ring options. For SRAM AXS on the road we made a custom spider to mount up the factory rings. Anyways, these things are basically indestructible and you can smash them off of rocks all day long, they don't care. Forget carbon!
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01-29-2021, 10:31 PM #3406Registered User
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- Aug 2006
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- Calgary
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After running multiple RaceFace carbon and XTR 9120 cranks, I'm at the point where the EEWings become much more compelling, barely a mark of abuse from what I've seen.
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01-30-2021, 01:17 AM #3407
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01-31-2021, 05:44 PM #3408
I致e never heard so much talk about cranks.
Other than stems, I can稚 think of a component I think less about after installing. I beat the fuck out of mine. Basic Shimano/sram goes a looooong way.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsHowever many are in a shit ton.
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01-31-2021, 05:50 PM #3409
Quit being so cranky.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
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02-06-2021, 11:22 AM #3410
Straight pull vs j-bend hubs. I know a lot of people think straight pull are dumb, but... Why exactly? I'm trying to choose specifics for a wheel build and straight pull seems like an easy way to save a few grams. I won't be the one doing the building so what are the negatives? Are people just getting all worked up because it's less likely a shop will have the spoke you need in an emergency, and that sometimes the spokes want to spin when you're truing them? Or is there more to it than that?
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02-06-2021, 12:29 PM #3411
I知 a big fan of straight pull hubs. But I知 also a DT fan.
Typically straight pull are built with bladed spokes, so not an issue when building with regarding spokes spinning. If your builder is using round spokes he should have an appropriate spoke holding tool. If you池e truing at home a little bit of lube on the nipple and any smooth pliers will hold your spoke for a quick adjustment.
When they build your straight pull, ask for 2 or 4 extra spokes. That way you have them on hand, and can throw them in a gear bag if you池e going on a trip and don稚 want to get stranded.
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02-06-2021, 07:48 PM #3412Registered User
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- Dec 2020
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- 679
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02-06-2021, 07:55 PM #3413
If the wheel fails with J spokes, the spoke breaks. If a wheel breaks with straight spokes, it痴 often the hub that breaks.
Just something to keep in mind.
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02-06-2021, 07:56 PM #3414
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02-06-2021, 10:24 PM #3415
Online calculators are making it easier to figure out spoke lengths on straight pull hubs, which used to be a big reason to build with J-bend.
Loads of midrange OEM wheel sets have straight pull, non-bladed spokes, increasing the chances a shop will have a spare for you.
It痴 actually quite nice to fix a broken spoke without removing a cassette, so that痴 a plus.
That said, J-bend just works better for building and tuning and rebuilding and sourcing spokes.
Of course, with the increasing price of spokes & rims, it痴 getting less advantageous to build your own.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsHowever many are in a shit ton.
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02-07-2021, 11:14 AM #3416
If I break a spoke, chances are very good that a local shop will have an appropriately sized j-bend spoke in stock. Chances are very bad that they'll have the right size straight pull.
Companies produce straight pull wheels because they're quicker, easier, and cheaper to build with a machine, not because they're better.
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02-07-2021, 11:24 AM #3417
After all three of the shops in my town didn't have a standard chainring bolt, I don't count on them to have anything aside from a tube on short notice (and even then, I'm only assuming it's any old tube, not necessarily the size I'm looking for).
Re: straight pull hubs breaking the whole wheel... Care to elaborate?
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02-07-2021, 12:40 PM #3418
In almost all overload impact or long term stresses on a J bend spoke wheel the weakest point is the J bend of the spoke - in my experience. Spoke breaks at the J bend or pulls out of the nipple. In the same situation with a straight pull I've seen spokes break, but I've also seen the hub sheer at the spoke receiving tab quite a few times.
I think straight pull hubs are much more likely to crack than hubs with J spokes. Of course, I've seen a pretty damn large number of broken wheels so I'm just talking averages.
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02-08-2021, 10:21 PM #3419
Spokes break all the time on machine built wheels.
Spokes rarely break on well tensioned hand built wheels.
Way too much attention paid to the parts.
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02-09-2021, 11:24 AM #3420Registered User
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- Jan 2008
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- East Van
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Talk to me about bar backsweep. I got some new wide bars with 8 degrees sweep and I知 finding the outside of my hands are hurting after slightly longer rides.
Seems like some more sweep would relieve this a bit, so I知 looking for some cheap used bars to try out with a 12-17 sweep.
What痴 the downside here - handling going to get a bit more twitchy?I'm taking myself to a dirty part of town, where all my troubles can't be found...
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02-09-2021, 12:17 PM #3421
Yeah, handling gets a bit twitchier as you go to more sweep. Bars are cheap though, and it's worth a try. A slightly longer stem might help balance things out (since the added sweep moves you hands back, effectively shortening the stem).
I think I'm in the minority here, but my wrists are happiest with 6-7 degrees of backsweep. I don't like more.
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02-09-2021, 12:39 PM #3422Registered User
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- Feb 2014
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- NorCal coast
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I assume you took precise measurements of your brake angle and distance from your grips before you swapped? Just a few degrees change can have a big change to comfort.
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02-09-2021, 12:54 PM #3423Registered User
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- Jan 2008
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- East Van
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I'm taking myself to a dirty part of town, where all my troubles can't be found...
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02-09-2021, 01:46 PM #3424
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02-09-2021, 01:52 PM #3425
Dumb gravel JONG sizing question: I've never ridden anything besides mountain bikes and want a gravel-type bike for commuting and some dirt roads around here. Because of everything I am not seeing much in my size locally, so I am likely buying online. I get that different brands have different sizing, but I seem to fall right in the middle of 52/54 in most brands (5'9" but a short inseam, like 29"). How much functional difference is there between these two sizes? Would I even notice the difference? If so, can I make adjustments later based on the stem, etc, if one is either too big or too small?
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