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  1. #4426
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,712
    Quote Originally Posted by tgapp View Post
    okay so do i drill out the old holes first? they just have plastic plugs in them

    thanks mang, appreciate your help here
    Take a smaller drill bit (like 1/16") and drill in the center of the plug to make a dimple. Then thread a wood screw into that and pull the plug out.

  2. #4427
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    4,315
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Take a smaller drill bit (like 1/16") and drill in the center of the plug to make a dimple. Then thread a wood screw into that and pull the plug out.
    gotcha, thanks, i really appreciate the beta!

  3. #4428
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    4,605
    I just drill them out with the 3.6mm binding bit. They usually just spin out once I get a few mm into them. The plastic plugs are way tougher than people give them credit for. If they’re in there with epoxy I’d consider them as secure as a bamboo skewer. But I’ve never drilled overlapping holes with them.

  4. #4429
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,173
    Quote Originally Posted by BC. View Post
    Not to be a smartass but use better tape...?...duct tape will hold your extra feet on there. (fastest method)
    That actually might work...
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  5. #4430
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    People's Republic of MN
    Posts
    5,761
    Quote Originally Posted by jackattack View Post
    ...I’d consider them as secure as a bamboo skewer.
    I lol'd...
    Gravity. It's the law.

  6. #4431
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    I just mounted my first set of Wardens, and I blame that plastic offset piece for causing spinners on the first heel track. (Screwing down track, waiting for screw to bite and feeling resistance from offset plastic bit, which then gave way. Kept screwing. Minimal resistance, and spin. All by hand, not using drill to drive in the screws. ) Annoying. Epoxy + fiberglass in the holes, curing now...

    I bashed the plastic offset bits down before mounting the second ski, and it went smoother.

    Maybe it's the skis? Atomic Vantage Ti. Drilled for 4.1 per topsheet lettering. Core didn't feel particularly burly when drilling.
    I had the same problem - got a spinner on the heel track. Initially I had planned to ski them a bit and then add inserts at some point in the future. I just decided to pull the bindings and do the inserts now. Seems like everything came out OK. Hope I don't die.

  7. #4432
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SEA>DEN>Spokanistan
    Posts
    2,965
    Super Goats all mounted
    Step 1
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    Step 10
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    Skipped a couple steps in the photo log


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  8. #4433
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Eastern WA
    Posts
    535
    Quote Originally Posted by SkiLyft View Post
    Super Goats all mounted
    Step 1
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Step 10
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    Skipped a couple steps in the photo log


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Yep. There should be at least two more beer pics...

  9. #4434
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,290
    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    I have to try that. Tried using existing holes but that splayed the screws. I can slide my pivot toe on but not the tech toe. What length of machine screw did you use for the inserts? Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
    CAST toe - 14mm csk flatheads
    CAST heel riser - 16mm pan heads
    Pivot heel - 10mm pan heads for the front & 18mm for the heel (ie the regular QK/BF pivot heel screw spec)

  10. #4435
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,290
    Quote Originally Posted by wwwllw View Post
    .......I have regular quiver killer inserts left over from years ago. What are they and where can I find the rescue inserts?......
    https://quiverkiller.com/products/qk...inserts-4-pack & they use a 25/64" tap drill & a 7/16x20 tap.

  11. #4436
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,290
    Quote Originally Posted by tgapp View Post
    ........a few questions i have:

    1. how much epoxy is too much (or too little) epoxy?
    2. i have a measured thread depth of 4.5mm of the machine screws sticking out of the binding. the BF inserts are a little sunk in - like by .5-1mm. am i gonna die?
    3. how flush (or not flush) should i aim for in placing the inserts?........
    1. I use a short length length of 2mm dia rod (but a nail or matchstick will work well) and scoop up put about a 5mm dia 'blob' on the end which I then run around the circumference of the hole to get the epoxy in to the threads. Before applying I give the epoxy a quick blast with a hot air gun to make it a little more runny otherwise it's too thick.
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    3. Just a whisker recessed so you can run a 25mm chisel across the topsheet to remove any eruption around the hole and ensure flatness etc. I install mine recessed to 0.328mm precisely . You won't die with a 1mm recess but going too deep could leave a route for moisture ingress above the insert.

    2. An engineer will say that for maximum strength the thread length engaged in the insert should be equal or greater than the diameter of the screw - so for a 5mm dia machine screw you want 5mm+ of penetration. However, the pull-out/sheer strength of these screws is huuuuge (waaay stronger than a regular mount) so as long as the binding base is flat on the topsheet (to spread the load) then you can have less. The amount the insert is recessed in the ski will effect screw length (see above) so you have to factor that in. QK inserts have an internal depth of 6.2mm and BF inserts must be very similar, ad you don't want the screw bottoming out in the insert. Allowing for all of these factors I work on a protusion from the binding of a minimum of 4.5mm and a maximum of 6mm.
    Last edited by Spyderjon; 12-24-2020 at 09:31 AM.

  12. #4437
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    A LSD Steakhouse somewhere in the Wasatch
    Posts
    13,235
    Quote Originally Posted by tgapp View Post
    Shit. Now I'm worried.

    I have 6.5mm between these holes and I was planning on putting inserts in 'em. Am I going to die? Should I get rescue inserts? Or drill out the plastic plug and put a dowel in it?
    i dont thinks youll die but i forsee waiting at the bottom on dump days cause them sissy sticks aint gonna give ya haul bmf ass float
    the waiting for my old man ass of questionable life habits up top should be a given
    ill be @ millcreek sat afternoon probably sunday come grab the techtron jig or myofs in the shop
    otherwise i told em im about to put some serious ski back in my bums routine
    and 80 or 90 in swaptober, nov and dec cover and justify 20's the rest of the seasons
    i drill out the plastic plugs with a fresh bit of slightly smaller diameter
    "When the child was a child it waited patiently for the first snow and it still does"- Van "The Man" Morrison
    "I find I have already had my reward, in the doing of the thing" - Buzz Holmstrom
    "THIS IS WHAT WE DO"-AML -ski on in eternal peace
    "I have posted in here but haven't read it carefully with my trusty PoliAsshat antenna on."-DipshitDanno

  13. #4438
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    4,315
    Quote Originally Posted by skifishbum View Post
    i dont thinks youll die but i forsee waiting at the bottom on dump days cause them sissy sticks aint gonna give ya haul bmf ass float
    the waiting for my old man ass of questionable life habits up top should be a given
    ill be @ millcreek sat afternoon probably sunday come grab the techtron jig or myofs in the shop
    otherwise i told em im about to put some serious ski back in my bums routine
    and 80 or 90 in swaptober, nov and dec cover and justify 20's the rest of the seasons
    i drill out the plastic plugs with a fresh bit of slightly smaller diameter
    hahahaha i needed that, thanks sfb, and yeah, that's why i'm putting tectons on my kusalas so i can actually charge

    i put in the plugs with gflex, thinking of just leaving them in there and not fucking with it too much. it's only two holes that are close, anyway.

    glad you're gonna be back to like 20 hours a week, fuck yeah man. let's go get out on a walk in the woods when you're free again. i'll swing by on sat afternoon too!! you fucking rock!

  14. #4439
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    15,717
    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjon View Post
    CAST toe - 14mm csk flatheads
    CAST heel riser - 16mm pan heads
    Pivot heel - 10mm pan heads for the front & 18mm for the heel (ie the regular QK/BF pivot heel screw spec)
    Thanks. Very timely. I think ill just do the toes as thats the hole that is conflicting. What is "csk"?

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  15. #4440
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,290
    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    ......What is "csk"?
    countersunk

  16. #4441
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    15,717
    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjon View Post
    countersunk
    Thanks again. I might have to look to quiver killer for screws. I dont think binding freedom stocks csr flatheads anymore

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  17. #4442
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,290
    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Thanks again. I might have to look to quiver killer for screws. I dont think binding freedom stocks csr flatheads anymore

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
    BF call them pozi flatheads and their pan heads are called pozi lowheads. My no.2 pozi csk flatheads (which is the proper head for a M5 machine screw) have a lower profile head than BF's no.3 pozi flatheads so you might need their 16mm screw for the Cast toes whereas my screws are 14mm.

  18. #4443
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    15,717
    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjon View Post
    BF call them pozi flatheads and their pan heads are called pozi lowheads. My no.2 pozi csk flatheads (which is the proper head for a M5 machine screw) have a lower profile head than BF's no.3 pozi flatheads so you might need their 16mm screw for the Cast toes whereas my screws are 14mm.
    Thanks soo much. Ill order both in case. My insert screw stock is getting low anyways

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  19. #4444
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,173
    Quote Originally Posted by BC. View Post
    Not to be a smartass but use better tape...?...duct tape will hold your extra feet on there. (fastest method)
    So, tried this, and can't recommend this method. Not accurate enough.

    I now have slightly offset bindings - maybe 1-2mm on the worst. Probably won't notice while skiing.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  20. #4445
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    17,820
    just mounted up this little setup for my friend Katryn the goddess

    Click image for larger version. 

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    trade for local beef and produce
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  21. #4446
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Lake Wallenpaupack, PA
    Posts
    2,208
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Finally...

  22. #4447
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    4,315
    this was absolutely terrifying to do

    big props to sfb, who is an absolute gentleman

  23. #4448
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    2,207
    So I fucked up tonight, trying to install inserts I accidentally blew past the hard stop on the drill bit and went to 19mm deep, just up to the base, but not through it. I can barely see the bit of black base.

    What's my best fix here? Probably fill the hole with epoxy (g-flex?) and saw dust and then re-drill? I was hoping to get on these tomorrow ugh.

    These Atomic Bentchetlers have the softest topsheet wood I've ever experienced.

  24. #4449
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    1,100
    Quote Originally Posted by thejongiest View Post
    So I fucked up tonight, trying to install inserts I accidentally blew past the hard stop on the drill bit and went to 19mm deep, just up to the base, but not through it. I can barely see the bit of black base.

    What's my best fix here? Probably fill the hole with epoxy (g-flex?) and saw dust and then re-drill? I was hoping to get on these tomorrow ugh..
    Meh, tap to regular depth, add extra epoxy, drive insert into place, and call it good.

  25. #4450
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    17,820
    yeah don’t freak out
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

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