Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[east or bust]

East or Bust- I do have an 05 sitting in the backyard. If you do need something and it's not too bad to pull/ship lemme know. I'm only home on weekends for the next few weeks(at least) though.

And since pics were fuct the other day, here's the bronco I need to grab a new starter for. Thank God they're super easy.Attachment 325185Attachment 325186

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Shit, somehow missed this. Thanks for the offer, may be hitting you up in the future.

Miraculously the sound has gone away completely, for now.

Had been doing a ton of research online while leaving it in the garage for the better part of a week and a half. Forget where I read it, but someone on a forum said when they pumped the brakes hard 2-3 times on startup it would delay, and sometimes fully stop the sound. I did this once, the first time I started it in over a week and sure as shit I haven't had the screech from the module once. And now it's been about a week driving it every other day. Surely it will return at some point but it's nice to put this in the back of my mind for as long as possible while building the 4runner rainy day fund.

[uglymoney]

I took the flywheel in to get resurfaced and I had them replace the pilot bearing also since I didn't really feel like bungling that job. I had to go to the machine shop anyway to get a wheel bearing pressed so figured I might as well kill two birds with one stone. Literally the only time I have been inside a store in a month and a half. The flywheel has never been touched at 245k so it needed it, it has been grabby since 15k. Looks sharp. Everything is ready to get bolted back together.







New Sachs stainless steel sleeve over the aluminum shaft the throw out bearing rides on. I wish this had been done at 132 when the clutch was replaced the first time, but I wasn't involved in that since I had taken it to a transmission shop to get the input shaft bearing replaced. There was a lot of debris inside the case, so I spent a bunch of time sucking up all the metal shreds from the springs that broke off the old plate and cleaning everything up with degreaser and brake cleaner. Greased the pivot points and the sleeve and replaced the fork after this shot was taken. Looks sharp!

[GBB]

Refreshed the old 3rd gen 4runner’s suspension last weekend. This included new lower control arm bushings, front struts, steering rack bushings, steering rack guide, sway bar bushings, and rear shocks and springs.

[bodywhomper]

That’s awesome ^^^. How long did that take you?

Maybe wrong thread... looking for suggestions of a simple single deck stereo head unit. Like less than $100. No need for Bluetooth speaker phone stuff. The LC old head unit crapped out. I’m aware of the need to do the amp bypass thing.

[uglymoney]

I finally got around to bolting the Subaru back together Wednesday after changing out the clutch.
Also refreshed the front right wheel bearing so it is now riding on its third set of front bearings while the rear bearings are still original. With the flywheel resurfacing it no longer shudders from a start. Shudder free probably won't last long but cool while it lasts. My local automotive machine shop charged me $100 bucks to press the wheel bearing, grind the flywheel, and install the pilot bearing. Clutch was like 180 shipped.

My stepson was stoked to be able to drive it to his socially distanced graduation from high school yesterday.

I took the old battle wagon for a little joy ride tonight. Such a rudimentary rattle trap compared to my Alltrack but damn it runs good and is fun to throw around with the baja springs/Meghan rear control arms, kyb struts. Also after driving the turbo VW the instant NA torque is fun. Too bad it is so anemic after that. Tightest shit box rust bucket around though...gauranteed. Thing is lucky to have me around making only semi rational decisions to keep it alive.

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[snowaddict91]

^hell yeah!

[basinbeater]

That’s awesome ^^^. How long did that take you?

Maybe wrong thread... looking for suggestions of a simple single deck stereo head unit. Like less than $100. No need for Bluetooth speaker phone stuff. The LC old head unit crapped out. I’m aware of the need to do the amp bypass thing.

Where you at? I have a nice one for sale sitting in salt lake...
Mag special. $60.
Pioneer deh-x9500bht. Aw yeah.


sent from Utah.

[bodywhomper]

Where you at? I have a nice one for sale sitting in salt lake...
Mag special. $60.
Pioneer deh-x9500bht. Aw yeah.


sent from Utah.

Fuck yes!

Nevada City, ca. Will u ship if I pay?

[bobz]

I changed out my Prius V plugs today. Which isn't a big deal, except that I'd heard that they're kind of buried and hard to get at. Well, I'm here to say that they're buried in a good way: The stuff that needed to be removed was all easy (the wiper motor and mechanism, and a couple of big separator panels), and once that was out of the way, the coils and plugs are lined up like they're on top of a table, with all the elbow and wrench room you could want (not like a Subaru, where you're lying on the ground trying to figure out the only available angle to turn the torque wrench 30 degrees before needing to reposition it).

[uglymoney]

I changed out my Prius V plugs today. Which isn't a big deal, except that I'd heard that they're kind of buried and hard to get at. Well, I'm here to say that they're buried in a good way: The stuff that needed to be removed was all easy (the wiper motor and mechanism, and a couple of big separator panels), and once that was out of the way, the coils and plugs are lined up like they're on top of a table, with all the elbow and wrench room you could want (not like a Subaru, where you're lying on the ground trying to figure out the only available angle to turn the torque wrench 30 degrees before needing to reposition it).

It is a pain in the ass for sure! There is a couple YouTube videos that were helpful when I did it.

What year do you have? We have a 2012. It had been flawless but around plug change time 120k we started using some oil. Now I think we use a quart every 3k or so. Switched to the high mileage formula Mobil 1 hoping that might help and maybe it has a little. Other than the oil consumption pain in the ass we still haven't actually had anything break at almost 180k - just the 2 recalls to reprogram the ecm so it doesn't burn up the inverter. I think I remember changing the rear brake pads last year as well.

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[El Chupacabra]

Q for the mechanics, and particularly, the GM truck/Suburban/Tahoe owners: do I have a failing wheel bearing or a CV half shaft, and how do I tell?

Background: 2000 GMC Sierra 2500, 4WD, gas motor (not that it matters); part-time 4WD. Truck has vibration at all speeds above approx 40 mph; can't tell where it's coming from while driving. I hear clicking from the front passenger wheel well area when turning sharply and driving slowly (forward or reverse) -- had Mrs. C drive while I walked next to truck in a parking lot. Jacked up the front passenger A-arm, and there is play when wiggling the wheel at the 12 + 6 o'clock position; rotating the wheel does not produce anything unusual. Also, when I wiggle the CV half shaft on the passenger side, it does not exhibit any excessive movement -- seems about the same as the driver side half shaft -- and there is no grease leakage or cracks in the CV boots.

My diagnosis: wheel bearing, based on the play, vibration at speed, and clicking. However, there is no howling/whining/whirring sound, which has been what I've experienced in the past when wheel bearings fail.

What do you all think?

[Mazderati]

Not a mechanic but are the ball joints known good?

[El Chupacabra]

Not a mechanic but are the ball joints known good?

Good question. I should've checked those when I had the A-arm jacked up.

[uglymoney]

Yeah. If you have 12 6 movement of the tire and knuckle but no movement at the ball joints it has to be a completely shot bearing I would think. Also not a mechanic obviously. The sounds between a failing wheel bearing and failing CV joint have always been strikingly similar to my ears.

[El Chupacabra]

I jacked up the wheel by the A arm again, and had Mrs C wiggle the wheel while I felt for play at the ball joints, tie rod end, and on the CV half shaft. No play on ball joints, but I could feel the clunking through the other parts. I feel pretty sure it's the wheel bearing.

The weird thing to me is that I didn't observe any increased noise from the bearing. Past wheel bearing failure have been noisy, particularly in curves, with the bearing louder when turning one way - but quieter when turning the other. Maybe that's not as universal a symptom as I thought it was.

[gravitylover]

Went to start the 06 Durango yesterday and nuthin, not a beep or click, just nuthin. Pop the hood this morning and the neg terminal is all bright powdery white and crusty. I grabbed the post cleaner, pulled out the wire brush and started scrubbing lightly. Of course at that point the clamp decided to crumble. Fuck.

Took a look and holy crap what a pain in the ass to change this negative cable. At the battery clamp it splits in two with one leg going into the harness and the other going under the wiper cowl into what looks like the back of the dash but I can't see it, have to take the fender off to get to where it's bolted to the frame so I just went and grabbed a new universal clamp.

Yeah that should be the end right? No. Clip the old one off, bolt the shiny new brass one on and... the cable is 7-8mm too short now to reach the post. I had to pop a couple of wire clamps to get the slack needed so now the shit rattles. Uggh. The other thing is the new clamp.was spread pretty far and getting it to close tight enough was sketchy, torquing on a battery post is discomforting. Finally got it done and jumped it and she's running great, better than in the recent past which is nice but the cable rattles against the firewall at highway speed so I gotta deal with that.

[bobz]

It is a pain in the ass for sure! There is a couple YouTube videos that were helpful when I did it.

What year do you have? We have a 2012. It had been flawless but around plug change time 120k we started using some oil. Now I think we use a quart every 3k or so. Switched to the high mileage formula Mobil 1 hoping that might help and maybe it has a little. Other than the oil consumption pain in the ass we still haven't actually had anything break at almost 180k - just the 2 recalls to reprogram the ecm so it doesn't burn up the inverter. I think I remember changing the rear brake pads last year as well.

We also have the 2012. At 110K, it's been tires, wiper blades, fluids, recall stuff, and the rear struts; been very pleased. I haven't seen any oil loss yet, but I'll watch for it. Oh, and the rear hatch weatherstripping kept slipping off, so I tried more and more aggressive adhesives; finally said enough and epoxied the thing in place.

[tripice351]

I jacked up the wheel by the A arm again, and had Mrs C wiggle the wheel while I felt for play at the ball joints, tie rod end, and on the CV half shaft. No play on ball joints, but I could feel the clunking through the other parts. I feel pretty sure it's the wheel bearing.

The weird thing to me is that I didn't observe any increased noise from the bearing. Past wheel bearing failure have been noisy, particularly in curves, with the bearing louder when turning one way - but quieter when turning the other. Maybe that's not as universal a symptom as I thought it was.

Honestly could be both.

Movement 12/6 - If you see the wheel and rotor moving and not the knuckle, wheel bearing is shot, although by jacking under the LCA means you likely wouldn't seen the movement of a bad arm bushing due to the jack holding it. Jacking under the frame is better.

Noise - clicking in full lock turns is classic CV joint noise, but those Subie wheel bearings like to click too. The classic wheel bearing drone/growl is not always present on a blown bearing (I'd say more common to hear noise and not feel play than vice versa).

Vibration/shaking- If felt primarily on acceleration, and noticable reduction of vibration on decel, likely CV joint and not wheel bearing.

[XXX-er]

I carry long seakayaks which don't fit so good on a truck Canopy so i had a Yakima front roof rack on my Ranger and a rack on the very rear of the canopy ,

When I tried to do the same Tacoma there was not an option, the pads/towers were ok but the clips didnt quite fit right so I cut em shorter with a dremel re-bent the hook in a vise/hammer and bob's yer uncle almost like Yakima designed it

BTW I've always prefered gutter racks but that ship has sailed so now we put roof racks directly on a car's paint, so I found that anywhere the rack touches the paint you can apply some of the 3M protection film

I had bought a 25$ roll of the stuff to protect the paint on my Yeti and I had 10 inches leftover so it was perfect ... recommended app

[El Chupacabra]

Movement 12/6 - If you see the wheel and rotor moving and not the knuckle, wheel bearing is shot, although by jacking under the LCA means you likely wouldn't seen the movement of a bad arm bushing due to the jack holding it. Jacking under the frame is better.

Vibration/shaking- If felt primarily on acceleration, and noticable reduction of vibration on decel, likely CV joint and not wheel bearing.

I agree it could be both CV half shaft and wheel bearing, just based on age and condition of the whole truck. The 12/6 play I observed looks consistent with a bad wheel bearing; the knuckle and CV shaft didn't appear to be moving when pushing the wheel at 12/6.

I put the jack under the lower A-arm in order to try to keep the suspension compressed at approx where it is while driving -- I thought that if I let the suspension go to full droop (i.e. jack under the frame), that would not necessarily show the condition of the CV joint, which would be at a much more extreme angle than it is while driving. I don't really follow your comment about seeing movement of any control arm bushings -- I agree that placing the jack under the A-arm will likely prevent the A-arm bushings from moving while shaking the wheel, but that would tend to suggest the 12/6 play is not due to bushings.

Re: vibration at speed -- it is present consistently above approx 40 mph, whether accelerating, coasting, or decelerating -- does not change. I notice it more coming through the body of the truck than through the steering wheel -- cup in drinkholder shakes a lot, but steering wheel feels normal.

I ordered a bearing/hub assembly, should be here Wed, and I'll tear into it on Thurs.

[Timberridge]

Does the clicking get louder or sharper turning at full lock? Its a halfshaft CV.

Bearing noise is more like a caliper drag sound initially then moves to a humming sound like you mounted M/T tires. Doesn't click or pop.

[El Chupacabra]

Does the clicking get louder or sharper turning at full lock? Its a halfshaft CV.

Bearing noise is more like a caliper drag sound initially then moves to a humming sound like you mounted M/T tires. Doesn't click or pop.

The clicking is only audible at sharp (full lock, or near full lock) turns. Can't hear it if driving straight.

I had thought that wheel bearings don't make clicking sounds either, but in googling it, apparently they can click.

[Timberridge]

The clicking is only audible at sharp (full lock, or near full lock) turns. Can't hear it if driving straight.

I had thought that wheel bearings don't make clicking sounds either, but in googling it, apparently they can click.

They can, but its a different click, more like a soft playing card on a bike spoke. You might hear it better on a sweeping turn at speed in one direction (like on an offramp), and not the other direction, unless both sides are bad. The CV joint is a sharper click, like a dog training clicker or a snap, and shows itself in slow sharp turns.

Sounds like yours is a CV joint.

[XXX-er]

that ^^ sounds like CV to me

back in the day I had a 4x4 subaru wagon and both rear wheel bearings were noisy & failed within 20,000 kms but not at the same time

Swerving from side to side the bearings made a noise as the bearing was loaded and unloaded much like a CV joint might

also had to eventualy replace CV as well and it was clicking when you crank the steering wheel

[El Chupacabra]

If I didn't observe the wheel play at 12/6, I would agree it is the CV. But the CV shaft should not cause any wheel play.

So, it's possible that I have both problems, but feel pretty confident the wheel bearing is bad. If I still have clicking in sharp turns after replacing the bearing /hub unit, then it'll be CV time.

From what I saw online, you can replace the CV half shaft on the GM trucks easily, without removing the bearing/hub unit or brakes. Comes out from behind.