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  1. #1
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    Apr 2002
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    NorCal
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    952

    best bike for $500-$700-$900

    New? Who's selling? What should I be able to get in this range?

    This thing has been killing me.




  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    between here and there
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    Best deals i have seen lately are 2003 leftovers at your local bike shop.
    More fucked up than a cricket in a hubcap

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Joisey
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    2,508
    I can't recommend a bike in that price range, but I will suggest that you level that seat a little bit. That could be what's killing you.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    In the moment
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    Road? Mountain? 'Cross? You've got to be a bit more specific. There's a big difference between a $500 and a $900 bike.
    "There is a hell of a huge difference between skiing as a sport- or even as a lifestyle- and skiing as an industry"
    Hunter S. Thompson, 1970 (RIP)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
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    7,628
    I happen to have a '98 Kona full suspension sitting in my garage that I've retired.....give me a ring to talk turkey......turkey.
    Waste your time, read my crap, at:
    One Gear, Two Planks

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    952
    plake - I'm looking for a mountain bike. (hence picture) Right now I'm riding mostly fire trails up to single tracks down at the base of Mt. Diablo. I've started riding fairly freqently so I want to upgrade from this hand me down, 45#, non shiftin sumnabitch.

    So what should I expect from a $900 bike as opposed to a $500 bike. I went to the local preformance bike shop yesterday and they looked the same.

    How are the regular Deore components vs. LX vs. XT?

    Shocks? When do hard tails really become the wrong way to go? Etc. Just looking for any input you've got.

    Pasta Roni - I'd guess that, hahemm [/clears throat], I might need bigger than a 15" frame. Watch your phone.

    Spanky - Gracias. You saved my ass.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    2,837
    I will second whoever said that getting a 2003 or 2002 year bike will get you a lot more for your money. I just bought a 2002 bike for $900, originally $1200. Also, you will get better quality components and all around a better hardtail for your price range than you would a full suspension rig.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Posts
    7,628

    Talking

    Originally posted by monster dump.

    Pasta Roni - I'd guess that, hahemm [/clears throat], I might need bigger than a 15" frame. Watch your phone.
    huh? wha? I couldn't hear you over the sound of rising prices.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    写道
    Posts
    13,448
    Doood, there's a shop in Portland selling demo 2003 Rocky Mountain Stratos for about $650. They have both 18.5 and 19.5 in frames. Lemme know if you're interested and I can put you in touch.
    Daniel Ortega eats here.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    3,806
    Check these out..
    http://www.ibexbikes.com







  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Hunter Thompson described it as hell.
    Posts
    2,642
    Originally posted by DaveTV
    Check these out..
    http://www.ibexbikes.com
    Hey Dave, have you ridden Ibex before, or just came across the sale?

    Seems like pretty decent deals, I was looking at the Corrida, the Road Bike with a Flat bar. It would be used for light rides and basic commuting, but I would want it to have decent components, I don't know a lick anymore about levels of Shimano, etc. Is this bike any good?

    Seems like a good deal.
    Skiing, where my mind is even if my body isn't.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    In the moment
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    Shimano Component hierachy:

    (Good to Best)

    Road

    Sora (8 speed, decent)
    Tiagara (9 speed)
    105
    Ultegra (Best bang for your buck)
    Dura-Ace (If you're riding at a level where Dura Ace will actually give you some benefits over Ultegra, you're good enough to get sponsored. Although it's currently the only ten speed drivetrain from Shimano)

    Mountain
    (anything below Deore sucks)

    Deore
    Deore LX
    Deore XT
    Saint (freeride/ DH specific group)
    XTR (Mucho dinero, but super light and bomber)
    "There is a hell of a huge difference between skiing as a sport- or even as a lifestyle- and skiing as an industry"
    Hunter S. Thompson, 1970 (RIP)

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Land of Silicone Mountains
    Posts
    2,101
    Hey I have an extra 2000 GT XCR 2000. It has mostly XT components with some LX. It was bought new for $1900. It has a QR20 Front and a Fox Vanilla shock on the back. It's a bomber XC machine. The bike is in great condition. I would tune it up for you and throw a new chain on it for $500.
    "It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds."

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,827
    Take a look at Marin. For $600 the B17 rocks! Solid parts and a tough frame. The wheels and tires are a bit heavy but...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Deep Playa
    Posts
    4,824

    Re: best bike for $500-$700-$900

    Originally posted by monster dump.
    New? Who's selling? What should I be able to get in this range?

    This thing has been killing me.

    Hey Cla...I mean Mr Dump!

    I was on a $150 Diamondback Response Sport for 3 years. Fuckin heavy hardtail was sweet for learning your shit in singletrack though.

    Picked this up about a month ago. $569 at Supergo. A little on the heavy side, but if you're used to riding 30-pound rigs it's fine.



    Get your ass out to the Peninsula one of these days.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Switzerland
    Posts
    7,578
    $500-900 isn't a lot to spend on a bike. i wouldn't get hung up on component types in this range. deore is fine unless you racing or counting grams. it's cheap to replace when you break something too.

    hartail vs full susp - depends on your terrain and skills (and back). there's nothing wrong with hardtails on just about any terrain, it really depends on your skill level and how much your back can take.

    i'd say look for a nearly new used bike (the resale value drops 50% the moment you leave a shop with a new bike). check the classifieds on mtbr.com as well as ebay (obviously) for deals.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    In the moment
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    Originally posted by Ripzalot
    i wouldn't get hung up on component types in this range. deore is fine unless you racing or counting grams. it's cheap to replace when you break something too.
    Yeah, but if you go below Deore you can count on replacing that cheap derailleur plenty of times.
    "There is a hell of a huge difference between skiing as a sport- or even as a lifestyle- and skiing as an industry"
    Hunter S. Thompson, 1970 (RIP)

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Slut Lake City
    Posts
    7,785
    Plakes: A lot of people now feel that XTR is often lighter, but not stronger, than XT. XTR chainrings are a good example. Some times the XTR component is just a different color XT component for more money. (That last point may have been the case a few years ago moreso than now.)

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Nhampshire
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    From when I raced it was well known that XT and LX held up the best. Can't tell you how many XTR derailleurs I watched the Expert team rip apart (I was 12 at the time, but a very avid rider). It looks like it might still be that way.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Under the bridge, down by the river
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    The things XTR I'd buy are the V brakes, the rest of my bike is XT. XTR definately isnt as bomber as XT, and I've always found that XTR will shift great when its set perfectly, but seems to need be messed with more often than XT.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    6,097
    I've heard from many sources that XT hubs are way more durable than XTR hubs. If I was going to spend big $ I'd get Phil Wood.

    I actually don't like any of the Shimano parallel-push brakes because they tend to squeal. I'll use mine until they get intolerable, then I'll put on a pair of Avids or something. V-brakes are pretty simple beasts.

    My only XTR part is my rear derailleur. That's because I am a communist and like Rapid Rise. Plus it cuts way down on the number of people who want to borrow my bike.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Tahoe
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    2,694
    Always worth upgrading to an XT rear derailleur IMO. The difference between an XT & lower priced models like a Deore, is the Deore will snap and leave you stranded, unable to ride. The XT will bend, but not break, and you'll be able to limp home.
    For big $, I recommend Chris King hubs!

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