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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Van City and Whistler
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    2,026

    916, 997 toe wing plastic contact point fix?

    I searched. Maybe there's something. Maybe not.

    I love 916's and 997's. They are the most solid feeling binding in my mind and I've tried them all. But I can usually only get a season or two out of them because they have one weak point. That damn platic contact point on the toe wings. I assume they are pretty important because they are your boot contact point, is that assumption correct?

    If so is there a way to fix them?

    Pics to demonstrate.

    Good binding. See the black on each toe wing.


    Bad binding. Black is missing on right side.


    Underneath view. Good binding.


    Bad binding.


    I've got a couple pairs like this and I'd like to salvage them.
    Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    California
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    2,828
    salvaging them is easy, you can either make a contact point yourself out of JB weld (easy) or some other plastic (probably easy, but i've never tried).

    IMHO, the best thing you can do is to a thrift shop, find shitty old solly demos, anything solly will do really, and use them for parts. Poacher recently sold me some 916s that were missing one of those exact pieces, and he was nice enough to include a spare part out his his random shit bin, 2 minutes and some epoxy, good as new again. However, just remember that there are differences between left and right for those pieces. Getting them off the donor bindings can be annoying, in the past when i've been hacking them up i've either used a dremel with a circular cutting bit or a flathead screwdriver to strait up break it off, then a file or hacksaw to trim to the size I need
    Three fundamentals of every extreme skier, total disregard for personal saftey, amphetamines, and lots and lots of malt liquor......-jack handy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    retired
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    12,465
    get yourself some JB Stick weld (not regular JB Weld). roll it into little balls, pack it in there, wiat for it to harden (a few hours) then file smooth.

    good as new.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    6,041
    I've run solly's for a long time, and have never had one of those come off. Including on metal 997's and S916's with over 200 days. I think part of that is that I adjust them for zero play with the toe height adjustment, or even some downward pressure. This probably cuts down on the variable loading of these plastic parts, so they don't wear out.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Van City and Whistler
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    Thank you for the info and D sanders I'm pretty sure putting downward pressure may inhibit release or promote release. I'll stick to using them the way they are designed.

    Will definetly be trying the JB Stick Weld.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    6,041
    Quote Originally Posted by Atrain505 View Post
    Thank you for the info and D sanders I'm pretty sure putting downward pressure may inhibit release or promote release. I'll stick to using them the way they are designed.

    Will definetly be trying the JB Stick Weld.
    They release fine. The AFD pivots out of the way (down) in a twisting fall. I've released at a 14 din, no problem.

    But hey, do whatever you want.....but you might want to consider some AFD's for those 997's while you're at it.....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    the edge of wuss cliff
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    Quote Originally Posted by marshalolson View Post
    get yourself some JB Stick weld (not regular JB Weld). roll it into little balls, pack it in there, wiat for it to harden (a few hours) then file smooth.

    good as new.
    I don't know why I haven't thought of this.

    M.O. = genius!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Koots
    Posts
    583
    I had the same problem wit my 916's. All solly bindings have similar AFDs although they all attach slightly differently. What you can do is pull them off a pair of old binders by pushing a chisel between the AFD and the side of the wing. Once you have popped them out you will need to Dremel them down so that they fit around of structure on the inside of the 916s/997s wings. Then just slap some epoxy on them and clam them down. I have replaced all 8 on two pairs of 916s and none of the replacements have failed yet.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Salt Lake City
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    Subscribing.
    Quote Originally Posted by TheDingleberry View Post
    pissing in a sink? fucking rookies. Shit in an oven, then you'll be pro.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Van City and Whistler
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    Nice four year old bump. Happy to say the toe wing epoxy/moldable putty stick is still holding and functioning to this day just as good as new.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Salt Lake City
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    Hey man, a four year old bump is better than a new, 1-reply thread! I plan on fixing a pair of 916s this weekend and want to be able to find this thread easily. Plus, I'm sure someone out there in the interweb land has the same question.
    Quote Originally Posted by TheDingleberry View Post
    pissing in a sink? fucking rookies. Shit in an oven, then you'll be pro.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Posts
    33,440
    Talk about happy endings!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Killington
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by Atrain505 View Post
    Thank you for the info and D sanders I'm pretty sure putting downward pressure may inhibit release or promote release. I'll stick to using them the way they are designed.

    Will definetly be trying the JB Stick Weld.
    Now that is some funny shit. The way they were designed is to have those pieces, and not some JB Weld, but go ahead and rag on Damian.

    For what it's worth, I fully agree with him. After many pairs of 916s and STH 16s(and never losing one of the wings), as well as mounting and adjusting hundreds, I definitely suggest going tighter than "recommended" toe height.

    Just my thoughts...

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