Shit you built with your own two hands (picture thread)

[oftpiste]

Thanks! I'm no crafty wood butcher by any stretch, but I saw something similar in a restaurant in CA a while back and thought they were idiot proof enough for me.

They are free-standing. Back is attached to an angled piece of 1x12 under the back of the seat and to the piece that wraps around the back. No wall necessary. I was quite surprised at how stable and sturdy that part was once done.

What's the best way to soften the mitres? Fine rasp or....? I like the rough cedar so wasn't going to sand (could have used the smooth side if I wanted smooth) but should I still use sanding sealer? I love the look of weathered cedar so usually let things patina naturally. No room to bring them indoors.

First one took a couple of days to make whilst figuring angles and other dimensions, 2nd one only took a couple of hours. Think I could reproduce pretty quick after I took notes on the build the second time.

Something similar in a table is next.

[::: :::]

i put teak oil on my cedar chairs
it's not great for UV protection but it seems to deepen the color a bit and bumps the water protection

These have been outside for a year (under a deep eave during winter)

[oftpiste]

Those are way cool! Too much geometry for this dumbass to build though...

Looks like they've been sanded prior to teak-oiling?

[Gepeto]

Red Cedar has a lot of tannins in it, so dropping the teak oil will richen/darken the color some. Left alone they will patina much quicker. Especially in sunlite.

In keeping with the rough hewn a rasp is a good idea or you could just slash them on a 45 with circular saw. The miter will slowly explode once the chairs reach the ambient moisture level and you won't want to grab to get up.

Cedar is a course grain, so machining instead of a hand tool wouldn't take away from the effect your after... yea could hit the leading edge with the biggest round over you have in a router. Or save this option as a good save if you hack at it with the rasp and don't like the result.

Any which way; tape your finish lines to help prevent pulling up the grain.

options galore

[::: :::]

Those are way cool! Too much geometry for this dumbass to build though...

Looks like they've been sanded prior to teak-oiling?

not a ton, just enough to keep the grain down


[edit to add] Oft, if you were smart enough to build those chairs from a memory or photograph, you've probably got the chops to do the ones I built (i followed premade directions and only changed the rail at the bottom: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/...westport-chair )

[oftpiste]

Ill take the compliment graciously. Thank you.

Mine have very little angle measuring or cutting precision, let alone any finishing required, which is why I think I was able to pull it off.

Did the table today. Took all of 20 minutes and a stop for a piece of rolled steel scrap at the sheet metal shop.

[gavinski91]

Alpy, I would recommend putting 3/4 clear crush rock in the gap behind any part of your retaining walls that are higher than 4 courses. (Allows water to drain away so that it doesn't increase the pressure on the wall).

I just finished building this thing last week:

[Art Shirk]

The Shed of Doom is officially underway. I don't recall what the verdict was on my idea to use elevated adjustable pier block posts, but I'm guessing it was poorly received, so that's the direction I went.

The area before I started:



Ripped down the fence for better access to that side of the shed and I've been meaning rebuild it anyway due to some rot. Gave me a clear line of site to the house so I could get a reference line for the 4x4s. Chalk lined it.



Drilled the holes, filled with Set XP anchoring epoxy, hammered in my saddles, and slowly cranked them up to level. Going to do three. Here's the first.

[oftpiste]

Go get 'm M! Nice work.

[::: :::]

Commonlaw, kind of a neat concept to float the base frame...what's the plan for the gap at the bottom? Will the siding reach down to just above the slab?

[::: :::]

Site for a bridge over a dry creekbed we made to deal with storm runoff

Anchored a couple of 4x6 PT sleepers for the foundations, pinned down with rebar


Some chopping


PT frame




PT decking


Done! Not remarkable design but bomber construction -- it will be there for while



Got it done in one 90 deg heater day with help of plenty of cold beverages

[NoPostholio]

Slapped this little 14' drift boat together this spring. 3/8 ply shell with glass and carbon. 80 man hours over a month cost about $1100

Is that the type of boat they were rolling down through grand canyon on in "the emerald mile"?

[Art Shirk]

Commonlaw, kind of a neat concept to float the base frame...what's the plan for the gap at the bottom? Will the siding reach down to just above the slab?

I'll bring the siding just down to the frame and then maybe build some sort of breathable apron around the bottom. Also going to shore the beams up with some 90 degree brackets rotohammered down.

All three are level and beefy now. Should be just fine for a 10 x 7.5 shed. Glad I didn't put some shimmed plate down that will inevitably collect water.

Btw, your lady seems excited.

[Art Shirk]

The boxes blew up. I'll have pumpkins by Halloween. Why, I have no idea.

[jamal]

Was up in Canada visiting the grandparents in july, made them a new bbq



Also put down those paving stones a few summers ago.

[Mazderati]

Was up in Canada visiting the grandparents in july, made them a new bbq

Glued? The mortarless look is cool.

[jamal]

Yeah just some construction adhesive. Just stacking a bunch of blocks seemed like the easiest solution although I did wind up putting down a concrete slab and I had to move every one of those 33lb blocks quite a few times. Also realized how important it is to evenly spread the adhesive after the first row or two. When you look close one part is a little crooked and the two sides ended up not completely level.

[FLS]

Alpy, I would recommend putting 3/4 clear crush rock in the gap behind any part of your retaining walls that are higher than 4 courses. (Allows water to drain away so that it doesn't increase the pressure on the wall).

I just finished building this thing last week:

Impressive. How you got the water to flow sideways like that, way cool.

Also impressive, Ms. acinpdx ... She rocks!

[Micol]

Long Term Project
just getting started with this place (9 structures on property all together - only 3 standing)
Inside disgusting filth junk and had two smokers for 50 years






lef me their water bed tho


starting from scratch with clippers,chainsaw,skid steer



dang, there's a house in here

[oftpiste]

You'll be busy for a while it appears!

[Micol]

You'll be busy for a while it appears!

yes, for a long time

[doebedoe]

Long Term Project
just getting started with this place (9 structures on property all together - only 3 standing)
Inside disgusting filth junk and had two smokers for 50 years
....
dang, there's a house in here

Whats the access to the ski goods like? Van camping for mags?

[Not Neil_Armstrong]

Feel a bit more "moved in" now that I have a work table in my shop, yes it's 4' tall.

[Micol]

Whats the access to the ski goods like? Van camping for mags?

ha ha, just what i was thinking once i get it spruced up, I bought it to have the access from yard...access pike national and Lost Creek wilderness right from yard, 12,000' elevation in back yard, i've got plans !! Priority camping for people who help me deal with this kind of stuff in the build out phase...depending on level of help could get you outbuilding use

[oftpiste]

lotta fuckin' floors!