Shit you built with your own two hands (picture thread)

[warthog]

Not quite "built", but anyone who has tried to apply large vinyl stickers without totally messing it up can appreciate this one.

Before:








After:







Buffed them out prior to sticker application-

Before:


After:



Only messed one up, so I get to buy the sticker pack for both sides again. Yay.

[grskier]

https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...amp-Ski-Chairs

https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...t-Porch-Swings

Thanks!!


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[Zeedashbo]

Ahhhhhhh walnut. Nice box dj!

Love how the homeowner let me do the living room cabinet with the owl eyes

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[The Tortoise]

Not quite "built", but anyone who has tried to apply large vinyl stickers without totally messing it up can appreciate this one.

Nice work. I did a Merc 25 last spring and it turned out.....ok. It's really hard to get it right. And you only get one chance.

Fortunately I had to trade it in because of a bent prop shaft and a need for more power.

[warthog]

Nice work. I did a Merc 25 last spring and it turned out.....ok. It's really hard to get it right. And you only get one chance.

Fortunately I had to trade it in because of a bent prop shaft and a need for more power.

I apparently did it the really hard way too. Once I actually read and digested the instructions, I figured it out. Key is to tape the sticker at the middle point and then peel back half of the film and cut it off. Then you work from the middle out. Lucky me, I get to try it out next week when I redo the Starboard side of one of the engines.

[Gepeto]

You can also do a wet application. Much easier, especially if you don't don't do these often.

Water in a spray bottle. Liberally squirt the area receiving the applique. Apply the the applique with the center hinge (tape) as you described above. It will remain repositionable while wet. Squeegee the water from the center out in all directions.

[warthog]

Yup, read up on that, but there was a lot of cautionary verbiage in their instructions on that.
The first one went on easily. 2nd one I hosed. 3rd and 4th were 99% good- just a couple small bubbles that won't be noticed hanging off the back of the boat.

[Gepeto]

You can pin hole the bubbles and smooth them down. Bigger ones will shrink with a hair dryer after pinholing

[warthog]

Pin holed some. They didn't lay down well. They were pretty tiny bubbles, so I think I need a much smaller needle. I figured a week or so in the sun and I will try again when I am back down at the boat. Need to pull the one cowling next week to do the last one and finish the buff out.

[Gepeto]

Sol will make improvements for sure

[DJSapp]

Minor upgrade, well worth it. Cyclone dust collector on the shop vac. Keeps the filter clean and easier to dump. Filled the bucket Sunday planing 9 boards, 8' x 5"



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[LegoSkier]

I’m a maker. I’ve dabbled in electronics, making weird musical instruments, wearables (costumes), art for Burning Man, wine/beer making, etc. When we first moved into our house, the only workspace was one corner of the garage where there was a crappy workbench mounted on a crappy cabinet that was a pain to open (I hated that thing) and a white pressed sawdust cabinet on the side.



After a couple of years in the house I ripped that out and it was a blank space for a couple of more years. I briefly contemplated just buying stock garage workshop stuff to redo it but that isn’t my style. I settled on a Steampunk themed design that would be tough, functional, and look awesome enough to convert into a speakeasy bar/club when the occasion demanded. While I got started in summer of 2019 pre Covid, this project really became a major hobby during the past year, and I am finally done.

Presenting (legoskiers) Clock Works and Elixir Shop!



Stuff on the right is the “Clock Works” part with tools in the base cabinet and electronics stuff in the wall cabinet. On the left side is the “Elixir Shop” part which has wine/beer making stuff in the base cabinets and eventually stuff to make liquors/bitters/shrubs in the wall cabinet.
The only thing I didn’t do all myself is the electrical as I definitely wanted that to be up to code and properly permitted.
Cabinets are stock unfinished 35” kitchen cabinets that I stained Mahogany. I built custom risers for all the base cabinets to bring them up to 42” bar height which was complicated seeing as the garage floor is sloped toward the center and down to the front but I managed to get it all perfectly level.

The countertop is cut out of two sheets of ¾” A Grade plywood then topped with ½” tongue and groove solid bamboo flooring glued down to it as the counter surface.

The counter edge is one 15’ continuous piece of 22mil copper glued and nailed with copper nails.
Drawer pulls are made to look like industrial pipe.



Cabinet pulls are industrial pipe knobs with decorative gears on the faces.


Off of the wall cabinets, I used the SteelTek structural pipe system to build a couple of utility rack/bars that wrap around below complete with decorative pressure gauges.



That pipe continues around to custom shelving on the left side of each cabinet.



And down off to the lower left of the base cabinets, I built a couple more pipe framed shelves for storing my fishing gear since the rod racks are on the wall right next to that.



I installed a plywood false ceiling on the top-side of the rafters and installed tin ceiling tiles coated to look like copper. My awesome wife bought the steampunk Love sign and industrial light, which has a dimmer mounted on the side of one of the wall cabinets, for me at Ballard Reuse here in Seattle.



I realized early on that I would need a swing-arm work lamp for fine work like electronics or fly tying, so I built that into the pipe system and ordered a custom “waterspout” socket with rotary dimmer from etsy and put on an industrial brass wire "shade".



I built a backed stool out of ¾” black steel pipe with solid oak seat & back edged with red full grain leather strips.



Finally, like I said, this space is meant to easily convert to a speakeasy bar/club space. To that end, I built a removable bar with a blue patina copper top that easily mounts into the “Elixir” end of the counter via a black steel pipe system.





And for during parties, I installed curtain rods on either side to hide the garage stuff with velvet curtains.



And finally, I installed 32’ of sound-reactive LED strip lights in the rafters when it’s dance club time



This was an awesome project that combined so many elements. Cabinets, counters, metal, wood, electrical…and I learned a ton but now I’m ready to move on to other things. And you all need to get vaccinated so we can put this pandemic behind us and you can come over and have a drink in this space.

[DJSapp]

FKNA Lego, that's awesome. Totally need to get up that and have a drink. Seriously inspired garage space.

Any plans for the floor? Concrete fits the theme, but we did a metallic epoxy that could kick ass with all of that. Really happy with it.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...rage-coat-kit/

Could go with the copper colors

[Art Shirk]

Very cool, Lego!


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[crashtestdummy]

Beautiful work LegoSkier, it seems too clean and organized to be a functioning workspace though.

[HD333]

Legoskier that is awesome.

I was proud of myself this week when I hung my sound bar up for our wall mounted TV.

I’ll turn in my man card.


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[Mazderati]

Love how the homeowner let me do the living room cabinet with the owl eyes

Like this a lot. Big fan of floating fixtures.

[CarlMega]

I will be extremely disappointed if you don't resemble this IRL.



I've consider wrapped metal for counter tops. What did you think of the edge-bending process?

[Zeedashbo]

Nice work lego!

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[LegoSkier]

I've consider wrapped metal for counter tops. What did you think of the edge-bending process?

That was a petty tedious process.
For the counter edging, first I nailed the strip on all the way around then had to glue each 3' stretch one day at a time. First bending it around the counter with a strip of wood and pounding it slowly with a 5lb sledge, then gluing it down with construction adhesive and clamping it down with C-Clamps between two 1" wide 1/2" thick steel strips I bought just for this process. Let cure 24 hrs then repeat all the way around.
For the bar, that was a bit easier actually as I just bought a 18"x48" sheet, glued it down to the plywood, then bent the edges around.
One thing is that for sheets with patina already on them, the patina flaked off at the crease when I bent the edges. Not a big deal in this case but if I was doing a kitchen counter or something, I would buy plain copper sheets and apply a patina after they are all mounted and bent as that is what most of the examples from the manufacturer seem to show.
I got all my copper stuff from this place: https://basiccopper.com/

[krp8128]

That was a petty tedious process.
For the counter edging, first I nailed the strip on all the way around then had to glue each 3' stretch one day at a time. First bending it around the counter with a strip of wood and pounding it slowly with a 5lb sledge, then gluing it down with construction adhesive and clamping it down with C-Clamps between two 1" wide 1/2" thick steel strips I bought just for this process. Let cure 24 hrs then repeat all the way around.
For the bar, that was a bit easier actually as I just bought a 18"x48" sheet, glued it down to the plywood, then bent the edges around.
One thing is that for sheets with patina already on them, the patina flaked off at the crease when I bent the edges. Not a big deal in this case but if I was doing a kitchen counter or something, I would buy plain copper sheets and apply a patina after they are all mounted and bent as that is what most of the examples from the manufacturer seem to show.
I got all my copper stuff from this place: https://basiccopper.com/

How'd you do the outside corners?

[DJSapp]

Onward to the next project. Entertainment center. Big ass glue up didn't turn out too bad. Any tips for keeping the boards flat or working them back down? 3 sets of cawls didn't quite do it and I got a couple joints that are 1/16"+ out. I got a decent amount of sanding in my future here, but I have another one left to do of similar size.

Legs are looking good though



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[RootSkier]

How are you jointing the edges before the glue up?

[Zeedashbo]

Couldn't imagine doing a big glue up without one of these....doesn't help to keep it flat but greatly reduces sanding and adds strength

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[old goat]

Onward to the next project. Entertainment center. Big ass glue up didn't turn out too bad. Any tips for keeping the boards flat or working them back down? 3 sets of cawls didn't quite do it and I got a couple joints that are 1/16"+ out. I got a decent amount of sanding in my future here, but I have another one left to do of similar size.

5 things. 1) Make sure your edges are perfect 90 degrees.

2) Use equal numbers of clamps above and below--I can't tell from the picture if you've done that. I know you have at least some clamps on both sides.

3) Don't over tighten. Tighten the clamps just enough to get glue squeeze out along the whole joint. Tighten all the clamps a little before you finish tightening any of them and alternate tightening clamps above and below the boards.

4) Use blocks between the clamp faces and the edges of the boards. The blocks should be the same thickness (or thinner) as the boards and centered. They will make sure the pressure from the clamps is applied straight through the center of the boards. Pipe clamps can distort especially with wide glue ups and apply force at a slight angle to the boards. (K Clamps are designed to apply the force straight through the boards but they're too expensive for my blood--I use pipe clamps like you.) Warning--it's hard to keep the blocks from falling out as you tighten the clamps.

5) Do the glue up in 2 parts. The clamps will distort less. I think you have 5 boards--glue up 3 and glue up 2 and then glue up the two assemblies to each other.

I have a big entertainment center maybe about the size of yours. Everything in it could be loaded into this new fangled thing I carry in my pocket, but don't let that stop you.

I love walnut.

I use a biscuit joiner for gluing up panels too. Not only does it keep the boards aligned so you don't have a lot of planing to do but it lets you get the boards aligned much faster and means you have less thing to think about as you position the clamps.