Shit you built with your own two hands (picture thread)

[Dobish]

Wrap the bottom of the posts

Yep. Also, leave air flow to let your wood dry

[RootSkier]

And use a level to get the posts plumb, unlike in the above.

[snoqpass]

It’s fairly plumb

[bodywhomper]

Thanks all. Concrete info?

For posts, i may use some of the incense cedar or doug fir logs that i have around. I need to assess my stash.

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[TheSilverSurfer]

Wrap the bottom of the posts

This is in no way settled.

I fall on the side of do not wrap your posts with plastic, but if you do the key is to ensure the plastic extends above the level of the soil. Some people cut the plastic at the concrete and then pack dirt around the base of the post completely negating any benefits of wrapping in plastic.

Crowning or sloping the concrete away from the post works! The above post is correct rot needs oxygen to live and rot does live- it is micro organisms feasting on that lumber. They do not fly or crawl they are in the dirt. They cant live without air, thats why you see posts rotten at the soil line and just below because they use the post as a snorkel. Under ground the post is solid. No need for gravel or drainage unless you have a high water table but even then even a wet post will not rot underground. That gravel lesson was passed down from generation to generation back to the Frontier or even Colonial days. It is simple science. I am a student at the Oregon State Post Farm. I see these forums and everyone has a different answer. Since 1949 all the clinical studies prove that posts rot from fungi at ground level. We have an entire hillside of buried posts of all types of lumber in concrete, out, different PH's and put under different conditions. The answer is simple and factual: keep the base of the post out of contact with soil or dirt. If you use concrete pour the concrete above the ground as seen in the picture. If you are hard packing use a Post Collar

[Foggy_Goggles]

Ice and water on your posts or not?

Pressure treat or not?

Height of concrete vs grade?

Paint black jack on the posts or not?

I've got a set of stamped plans in front of me for a trail head kiosk. It calls for direct bury 6x6 pressure treat posts in a 2'x2'x5' hole filled with concrete. Will it work? Probably but I shouldn't care, I'm just the contract installer.

In my opinion, all the concrete is is expensive backfill that doesn't drain. The post is still just sitting in the bottom on the non-compacted hole. For a buried post, I'd much rather fill with class C. At least it can be compacted and it drains.

If you are going to use concrete, I'd suggest just setting the post on top with a post base. Oh, I'm you don't have rebar in your concrete, it will crack bad.

So...do what you want. Almost anything will last our lifetime and probably not fall down. If you want a contractors opinion on the theory behind good, better, best, you got it.

Setting post and beam structure to me = laser transit to shoot square and elevations, stabila plate level plus adjustable turnbuckles to plumb the posts and pull a diagonal across the top to double verify.

If it ain't perfect, I feel my check is in jeopardy and I'm not happy.

[iceman]

Why would they put the posts in the concrete? Post bases are cheap. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-S...FQtqwQoddw4GGw

[Foggy_Goggles]

I was thinking about this in the shower. I've seen/built $100K pole barns built with direct bury posts. The site drainage plan was well thought with pea gravel in the bottom of the hole, positive slope away from the building, etc.

Ice, I hear ya but thats a shit post base. Something like an ABU66RZ is what you want (round ones are available for logs).

Mostly, it is about how you do it not what you do. Lost of stuff works if you know what you are doing. Direct bury posts with poor drainage, compaction etc. can cause problems. Caissons with post bases can call problems also.

[Alpinord]

......I've got a set of stamped plans in front of me for a trail head kiosk. It calls for direct bury 6x6 pressure treat posts in a 2'x2'x5' hole filled with concrete. Will it work? Probably but I shouldn't care, I'm just the contract installer. (snip)....

Wow. Massive and 5' deep? Is this for lateral loads and an anchor? What's frost depth (WP, right?) Was this a boiler plate detail without soils testing? I could see a 2' sq pad to account for unknown or uncompacted soils if the loads aren't huge to meet assumable code minimums.

Depending on loading, frost depth and bearing, below is a typical post and pier detail. As noted above there are several tried and true ways to install a post, especially for out buildings and uninhabitable structures.

As one structural engineer likes to say: "No water, no problem."

[snoqpass]

I was thinking about this in the shower. I've seen/built $100K pole barns built with direct bury posts. The site drainage plan was well thought with pea gravel in the bottom of the hole, positive slope away from the building, etc.

Ice, I hear ya but thats a shit post base. Something like an ABU66RZ is what you want (round ones are available for logs).

Mostly, it is about how you do it not what you do. Lost of stuff works if you know what you are doing. Direct bury posts with poor drainage, compaction etc. can cause problems. Caissons with post bases can call problems also.

Some cities apparently think posts in concrete is a good idea

[Micol]

cool knife, basement and shed !

all about the sona tube
but deck coming out nicely irregardless

crap computer changed sona to song

[iceman]

Ice, I hear ya but thats a shit post base. Something like an ABU66RZ is what you want (round ones are available for logs).

Yeah I didn't spend any time on it, that was just the first thing that came up.

[GiBo]

I'm not a knife nut, but this is something I've wanted to do for a while. Little folding knife I made.

Started with a cheap kit, then threw out the blade, as well as the nasty wood they supplied for the handle. Some friends run a company forging very high end chefs' knives - they gave me an offcut of their layered steel to use for the blade; it's a high-carbon steel core, with 100-odd layers of nickel and steel cladding. The scales are cedar burl.

Making it was a case of shaping and profiling the blade, cutting the mechanism for the pivot and lock onto it, tempering the metal, polishing, etching in acids to bring out the damascus pattern, then sharpening and assembly/finishing.

I made a load of mistakes doing this, but learnt a tonne too. Fun little project though, and I'm happy with the finally product.

Attachment 213871

That's badass.

[Foggy_Goggles]

Terry, yes Fraser actually. We have 30" minimum frost line by code. As you know, soils engineering dictates (spread footings, pier & grade beams, helical peirs etc.). The engineer I was generally does 36" from natural grade to bottom of bigfoot. This design with the 5' hole is for a 5x6' sign with a simple gable roof. It's stupid and complete overkill. I got beat back on the contract $500 so the rec district (customer) is going to have their monkeys dig the holes. I might have to build 30 of these next year. If that happens, I'll probably re-engineer the footings at my expense to I can just go around with a mini ex and dig the holes. Then I'll just have the concrete truck drive around for a day and pour the footings.

Snoq, that pergoda looks awesome and as said I'm sure it will be around by the time we are both said. That said, if we are talking about engineering principals, longevity and ease of construction, the fact that your permitting jurisdiction approach the design is like saying you found a framing plan on youtube so it must be good.

I generally heads up to anyone with a permitted project...Do not let the sign off on the permit card provide you a false sense of security that everything is on the up and up.

Again, just a theoretical conversation about different methodologies. You'd be surprised about what doesn't fall down [/guy who pays a large percentage of his bills performing structural remodels and remediation as sees quite a bit for fuck up shit that the average homo].

[bodywhomper]

interesting discussions!

a lazy morning at my house has me sitting at a computer rather than working my little project, except in thought and internet.

my little project: the site is on a slight slope that i do not plan to level-out. the soil is not compacted. most soil in my area is a type of clay. no frost depth. my conceptual intent was to dig holes with a hand auger, lay pea gravel at the bottom of the hole, posts (either 4x4 pressure treated or existing cut-down log on property) in concrete with concrete "collar" a little above ex grade and "shaped" so that water does not sit against the post, try to get it plumb w/ levels and use 2x4 diagonals at top to help until it's set.

Is there a type of concrete that is easier to use than others for this application?

on the subject of permitting, there's an expensive condo development in the bay area, built on at a legacy oil-base hazmat site, which was "cleaned-up" at the 70's-era regulatory era when the property was sold. the builder (or sub?) used a moisture barrier in the foundation rather than the spec'ed vapor barrier. it was signed off by the municipal inspector. fast fwd a few years and there's hazarded vapor from the soil that's seeped through the foundation into the parking garage and the lower living level of the condos. the builder (and former property owner) was a shell company created for the development which was bankrupted after the property was sold post-construction....

[::: :::]

Why would they put the posts in the concrete? Post bases are cheap. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-S...FQtqwQoddw4GGw

in a pole barn scenario, you can design the building to basically cantilever the structure out of the ground to provide the lateral restraint. So, in that case, the deeper you bury the wood post, the more stiff the structure is in the wind (not perfectly true, but good enough description for discussion)

in the post base scenario, something else needs to keep the structure stiff against lateral (wind or seismic) forces, because all the post base does is make a connection to the ground. So, you would need shear walls or cross-bracing to keep the structure from getting pushed over.

[::: :::]

In-process: raised entry boardwalk for a studio on my property (basically a slightly sloped deck). Weekend effort: 90% of the time is layout.

Decking will be 5/4x6 ipe set on a diagonal

I excavated and set pier blocks for footings. Leveled and squared the frame. And got half the joists installed. I know it looks very basic but hairiest bits so far are: 1) locating corners/intersections in space & 2) carting 14’ beams home in an 8’ bed. It’s remarkable how un-orthogonal the world is.

[babybear]

neat- basic question-boardwalk deck up bc you are using as office (needs to be compatible w/ standards?) or just design choice?

[::: :::]

First thought was just an ordinary concrete walk, but we thought the weathered ipe will feel warmer and cozier as a weathered gray. It also acts as a bridge through the landscaping, albeit a low one up to the entry. The near side of the photo will be the entry walk to the house which will be concrete. So it bridges from the walk to the studio.

[Alpinord]

I've been wanting a dedicated shop area for eons. I just got over the hump of enclosing our carport to get things electrified, operational, insulated and heated. After finishing the metal siding, I can move inside to finish out and trick out tool storage:

[that dude who did that thing]

Looks well-insulated.

Do you use that Shopsmith for much other than as a tablesaw?

[DougW]

Build another wood shed just smaller than first. PT cedar utility poles, beams and rafters off the property, metal roof - all the left overs that they ship you. Three colours and two profiles and couple of pieces kinda banged up . The only things I had to buy were the lag screws , some threaded rod and the 2x4 s for the strapping.

[Alpinord]

Looks well-insulated.

Do you use that Shopsmith for much other than as a tablesaw?

R-19 walls, R-30 sloped roof & R-38 flt section.

The Shopsmith's disk sander and band saw also gets regular use. The drill press, horizontal boring and jointer once in a while. I made a jig to route wax scrapers that works great for sharp edges. The shaper with multiple knives, not yet nor the lathe.

[TheSilverSurfer]

Custom

[Alpinord]

It can snow and pile up now, the north metal wainscot is installed.




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