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  1. #2401
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    Jan 2008
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    Reminder--glue is harder than wood and dulls edge tools. In our community shop there was a cutting board class--gluing up multicolored strips of different woods--and people were letting the glue harden and then running the boards through the planer. They were not just dulling planer blades, they were breaking them. If you want to try to fill the cracks I suppose you could try to keep the filler a little below the wood so the knife wouldn't contact it.

    I keep a chisel just for removing excess glue, and I remove the excess after the glue has set but not hardened--about 2 hours for Titebonds.

    I wouldn't be worried about food safety--once glue is cured it's pretty damn inert, especially considering the short time the food is in contact. (Oil finishes are another story--only mineral oil IMO, or go bare.)

  2. #2402
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    Feb 2008
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    Alpental
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    I did not build this board but I need help from the woodworkers in this thread. What product should I use to fill those two 1/8-1/4 cracks in the middle? I need this thing to be food safe and sanitary...

    Attachment 370976


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    https://osmocolorusa.com/product/topoil-high-solid/
    I have a responsibility to not be intimidated and bullied by low life losers who abuse what little power is granted to them as ski patrollers.

  3. #2403
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    The Safety Data Sheet doesn't sound that encouraging. https://ardec.ca/media/catalog/msds/...opoil-osmo.pdf
    Even if it is food safe it doesn't sound like a product you would use to fill a crack. Sounds like a surface treatment--like mineral oil.

  4. #2404
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    Feb 2012
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    617
    I've never cleaned a wood cutting board in anything other than soapy dish water, am I gonna die? For real, I'd have maybe just mixed sawdust and wood glue into that, but, more than likely, just ignored it for a few years. Oops?

  5. #2405
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    Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    The Safety Data Sheet doesn't sound that encouraging. https://ardec.ca/media/catalog/msds/...opoil-osmo.pdf
    Even if it is food safe it doesn't sound like a product you would use to fill a crack. Sounds like a surface treatment--like mineral oil.
    Ive actually used this product on countertops I built enlighten me some more
    I have a responsibility to not be intimidated and bullied by low life losers who abuse what little power is granted to them as ski patrollers.

  6. #2406
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    Dec 2012
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    I can still smell Poutine.
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    Another vote for charcuterie board.

  7. #2407
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    Jan 2008
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    livin the dream
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    Thanks all for the reccos! It is a charcut board but I still need to fill those voids for the inevitable soft cheese and liverwurst that could find its way in there...

    Reading responses to Ofts question makes me laugh... Typical TGR. My fence post wobbles here use this German engineered $100 a tube, $300 per applicator, 10,000psi epoxy. Its the only way...


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  8. #2408
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    Jan 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannynoonan View Post
    I've never cleaned a wood cutting board in anything other than soapy dish water, am I gonna die? For real, I'd have maybe just mixed sawdust and wood glue into that, but, more than likely, just ignored it for a few years. Oops?
    I just sponge mine off. My only reason for not using the sawdust and glue method is what it would do to the knives--not any food safety issue. BTW Fine Woodworking did a study of cutting boards and found that from a bacterial standpoint wood was safer than plastic.
    What ever you use--dilution is the solution to pollution. Rinse your chicken before you cut it. Wipe off the surface frequently. Your kitchen is not a level 4 biocontainment facility. It will never be sterile--you just want to keep the bacterial levels down. I wouldn't use a disinfectant on a cutting board--I'd be more worried about ingesting that than the germs, but if you do use it, rinse well.

    Quote Originally Posted by snoqpass View Post
    I’ve actually used this product on countertops I built enlighten me some more
    No more enlightenment to give. Just posting what I found. OTOH the product claims to be determined safe by the EU regulators and they are pretty strict I think. And the stuff is made in Germany, and the Germans certainly know their toxic chemicals. I look up the Safety Data Sheets on a lot of the finishing products I use--it's interesting to see what's actually in them. With most of them--especially ones that dry to a hard film, any danger is from the application process. Once they've cured they're pretty much inert.

    Nick--if you're not going to be cutting on the board with good knives then I'd go with black tinted epoxy. You're not going to hide those cracks so might as well highlight them. Very common practice in modern woodworking. If you do insist on using sawdust and glue to try to hide the cracks I would use Gorilla glue. When used in a sawdust and glue mixture it gives a much better color match than Titebond and can take up anything you finish the board with. If you use Gorilla glue put wax paper over the repair and then clamp a block over it--Gorilla glue wants to expand as it dries. I published this in Fine Woodworking. (Highlight of my publishing career even though it was only 2 sentences; much more gratifying than any of my 3 medical publications.) But I'd use the black epoxy.

    Before this thread I'd never heard the term "charcuterie board", although we have one or two. Call me ignorant.

  9. #2409
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    Thanks Old Goat. Ill do the black epoxy. Sounds like the right call.


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  10. #2410
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    Aug 2016
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    If you really care about your knives, and health, get a spruce Japanese cutting board.

    end grain is gonna crack and keep shit, and wear knives, and that’s the complaints.

    of course the opposite of the $300 solution is “use this glue that isn’t a good gap filler to fill the big hole”

  11. #2411
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    Quote Originally Posted by dunfree View Post
    If you really care about your knives, and health, get a spruce Japanese cutting board.

    end grain is gonna crack and keep shit, and wear knives, and that’s the complaints.

    of course the opposite of the $300 solution is “use this glue that isn’t a good gap filler to fill the big hole”
    I don't think you're paying attention. It's not a cutting board. Knives aren't an issue, except maybe cheese knives. And gap filling epoxy is very good at filling gaps, surprisingly. I wondered how long it would take for someone to post about an insanely expensive cutting board.
    Gap filling epoxy and tint aren't cheap either (did I mention that) but there will be enough left over to deal with future cracks if they arise.

  12. #2412
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    May 2007
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    Sandy, Utah
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    You guys are super uptight about your knives..geez....lighten the fuck up. It's metal..sharpen that shit. Y'all act like knives are some magical tool. Trust me a little sawdust or epoxy is hardly running your precious knives on concrete.

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  13. #2413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skidog View Post
    You guys are super uptight about your knives..geez....lighten the fuck up. It's metal..sharpen that shit. Y'all act like knives are some magical tool. Trust me a little sawdust or epoxy is hardly running your precious knives on concrete.

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using TGR Forums mobile app
    You're flat out wrong. First of all, a truly sharp knife is a magical tool and a dull one is dangerous. Second, hardened glue will dull a knife a lot faster than you can sharpen it. I've seen it first hand. Sharpening is a pain in the ass and the less often I have to do it the better. Third, if you routinely use your sharp edges on hardened glue and notice no difference then you don't have sharp edges and can't be trusted. Take care of your tools.

    (Unfortunately I've dulled too many blades over the years--usually when I got distracted and didn't get the excess glue off before it cured.)

  14. #2414
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    Feb 2005
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    17,135
    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    You're flat out wrong. First of all, a truly sharp knife is a magical tool and a dull one is dangerous. Second, hardened glue will dull a knife a lot faster than you can sharpen it. I've seen it first hand. Sharpening is a pain in the ass and the less often I have to do it the better. Third, if you routinely use your sharp edges on hardened glue and notice no difference then you don't have sharp edges and can't be trusted. Take care of your tools.

    (Unfortunately I've dulled too many blades over the years--usually when I got distracted and didn't get the excess glue off before it cured.)
    Chill TFO old dude. It's a meat plate.

  15. #2415
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    Oct 2003
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    In Your Wife
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    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    You're flat out wrong. First of all, a truly sharp knife is a magical tool and a dull one is dangerous. Second, hardened glue will dull a knife a lot faster than you can sharpen it. I've seen it first hand. Sharpening is a pain in the ass and the less often I have to do it the better. Third, if you routinely use your sharp edges on hardened glue and notice no difference then you don't have sharp edges and can't be trusted. Take care of your tools.

    (Unfortunately I've dulled too many blades over the years--usually when I got distracted and didn't get the excess glue off before it cured.)

    Quality post.

  16. #2416
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    May 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by dunfree View Post
    If you really care about your knives, and health, get a spruce Japanese cutting board.

    end grain is gonna crack and keep shit, and wear knives, and that’s the complaints.

    of course the opposite of the $300 solution is “use this glue that isn’t a good gap filler to fill the big hole”
    Where did you come up with this? Some of the very best butcher blocks are end grain maple.

  17. #2417
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    May 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashtestdummy View Post
    Where did you come up with this? Some of the very best butcher blocks are end grain maple.
    I guess butchers don't use sharp knives? They take poor care of their tools.

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  18. #2418
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    Jun 2010
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    Powder Mountain
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    791
    Didn't build the house, but did build the deck and side the house. Pad on the left is for an half inset cedar tub

    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #2419
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    oooooh.. Is that Tercel wagon 4Wd?

  20. #2420
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    Dec 2012
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    I can still smell Poutine.
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    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    oooooh.. Is that Tercel wagon 4Wd?
    The Tercel Wagon SR5 in 4WD with a stick was the bomb. Until they rusted out.

  21. #2421
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    I think they came off the assembly line with rust.

  22. #2422
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    Oct 2003
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    Haxorland
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    1 joint at a time was the trick. Took the whole weekend, but came out a whole lot better which is good since this piece is the top. Also got that 8th pipe clamp cleaned up and working.



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    I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.

  23. #2423
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    Nov 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeardedClam View Post
    Didn't build the house, but did build the deck and side the house. Pad on the left is for an half inset cedar tub

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That cedar looks nice. If you dont mind, what did that cost?

    Im about to re-deck my deck with STK 5/4 x 6 and Im getting quotes at $2.89-2.99 per foot. Thats east coast pricing.

    Nice job on both the deck and the siding.
    Because rich has nothing to do with money.

  24. #2424
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    Jun 2010
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    Powder Mountain
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    791
    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    oooooh.. Is that Tercel wagon 4Wd?
    Quote Originally Posted by riser3 View Post
    The Tercel Wagon SR5 in 4WD with a stick was the bomb. Until they rusted out.
    270k on this 5, sometimes 6sp 4wd wagon. I'll probably die in a crash, but for an oversized go kart, what do you expect. No rust besides the mouse sized hole under the passengers feet

    Quote Originally Posted by spanky View Post
    That cedar looks nice. If you don’t mind, what did that cost?

    I’m about to re-deck my deck with STK 5/4 x 6 and I’m getting quotes at $2.89-2.99 per foot. That’s east coast pricing.

    Nice job on both the deck and the siding.
    Thanks man,

    Siding is Alaskan yellow, about $1sqft plus fasteners from a mill outlet a few hrs south.

    Deck and trim is red cedar from the property, the whole deck was ~175 and a couple box of screws. We did ~2500bft at ~.50/bft. There's a bunch of usable scraps and chunks with wane that might take it closer to .45.



    This from before we screwed it down
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    Log deck it all came from
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'll post some more when we get the hot tub done. Going for a conical barrel, like a wine cask bottom, not like the usual straight up and down cedar tub style. We got enough nice wood to make a couple, hoping to pay for new sleds with the proceeds

  25. #2425
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    Jan 2008
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    truckee
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    Quote Originally Posted by MakersTeleMark View Post
    Chill TFO old dude. It's a meat plate.
    I forgot to mention--if you are serving cold cuts to your guests always pre-slice the meat, or at least only let them have plastic knives. Your insurance company will appreciate it.

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