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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by strode420 View Post
    so i'm giving this my first go soon here on a pair of fks155's. from the looks of everything, as long as i......

    a) tightly clamp the brake down (w/ wood padding of course)

    b) isolate the torque point with shop-instrument-of-choice (a la gordymans pipewrench) right at the bend so no parts on the heelpiece itself are getting torqued, just the brake arm from the bend to the end of the arm

    c) bend and rebend as close to original angles as possible

    d) bend slow enough so as to not break the brake
    maybe i'm retarded, but it took me like 3 reads to get this point, which i see as the most crucial point. otheriwse you completely fuck up the internal mechanism of the binding. i guess when you're about to do it, you might realize something is wrong, but just looking at pictures i overlooked/was confused at this step.

    seanpistol:did you do this and still screw up your fks?
    http://tetongravity.com/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=932&dateline=12042516  96

  2. #27
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    I just did this and VERY nice/slick system

    I was using bindings from an old dead skinny ski, so I just left the bindings on the ski, and clamped the vise down on the whole ski and binding.

    I got a 70mm brake to 90mm in under 5 minutes.

    thanks


  3. #28
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    Is there a concensus on the maximum mm underfoot that FKS's can bend around without any negative reprecussions?

    For instance a FKS 155 going onto a Brigade 98 under?
    Time again for slaughter of pow, bumps, and EC ice.
    Days on snow = 0
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  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordyman View Post
    I have some trouble understanding how to do this (ie not torqueing the stuff inside the brake assembly) when trying to bend them straight. There is just no room to work with, can't get anything to grip the brake arm inside of my desired bending point... Any tips?

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by thd View Post
    I have some trouble understanding how to do this (ie not torqueing the stuff inside the brake assembly) when trying to bend them straight. There is just no room to work with, can't get anything to grip the brake arm inside of my desired bending point... Any tips?
    Look at the caption for this picture in the first post: This picture is of the rebending of the brake to its new width, not the initial straightening. Here's the link to Slim's method: http://tinyurl.com/yotwhe (Surprised it wasn't put into this thread but it is mentioned). Slim uses a ski pole to do the brake straightening but the brake is out of the binding housing. I've got a pair of FKS's I need to do this to, so let me know how it goes!
    Last edited by mmmthmtskier; 11-30-2007 at 10:41 AM.
    "this thread is an odd combo of win and fail." -Danno

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmmthmtskier View Post
    Look at the caption for this picture in the first post: This picture is of the rebending of the brake to its new width, not the initial straightening. Here's the link to Slim's method: http://tinyurl.com/yotwhe (Surprised it wasn't put into this thread but it is mentioned). Slim uses a ski pole to do the brake straightening but the brake is out of the binding housing. I've got a pair of FKS's I need to do this to, so let me know how it goes!
    Yes I can see that, which is why also noted that my problem was for the straight bend....

    The whole point is to avoid disassembly, unlike Slims method, so that other thread (which I have also read of course ) doesn't help me alot. Thanks though.

    Anyone else?

  7. #32
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    Bump for monday afternoon crowd.

  8. #33
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    You need to slip your cut off ski poles over the brake arms when you make the bend to straight out (90 degrees from the edge).
    Make sure you bend both arms at the same time, if you try to do one at a time you risk some play in the arms when you are done.
    I did some yesterday for the first time, when pretty well. Much faster than my old method though I need to fine tune it a bit.
    The vice positioning is key because you need to go past 90 degrees to get to 90 and the vice can interfere with bends.
    Sorry, been drinking and dont ever post pics so pm me if I need to elaborate.

  9. #34
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    I just saw this post but can't see the pics. Does anyone have pics for how you clamp the heel piece for this method. I really don't feel like taking the whole thing apart.

  10. #35
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    No pics, but I found that I needed a very thin monkey wrench to make it work - I was aiming for a 100mm bend and I ended up with about 125. Should have taken pictures when I was working, I wasn't thinking.

  11. #36
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    Aaaargh!! The pictures are missing!

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by EC_the_tash View Post
    Is there a concensus on the maximum mm underfoot that FKS's can bend around without any negative reprecussions?

    For instance a FKS 155 going onto a Brigade 98 under?
    I just bent my Rossi Pro 180(older toe, but same heel) to fit my praxis, 136mm, so you will be fine with 98mm brigade.

  13. #38
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    Anyone got the pics for this?

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripen View Post
    Anyone got the pics for this?
    Anyone?

    .
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  15. #40
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    I am really sorry. I blew it. I tried to give up tgr a while back and also tried to delete all traces of myself from this forum. All I succeeded in doing was deleting the only useful contribution I've ever made. I have searched my hard drive and backup sources to no avail.

    Of all the coincidences, about a week ago I picked up some old ZR 10 DIN turntables at a thrift store, and bent the brakes on them. I will take some photos and post them. Again I'm sorry.

    It was like karma, bending those brakes. I did the first brakes by disassembling them. Re-assembly was such a bitch I did the second brakes using the vise. Bending them on the vise was so much easier and turned out better I just about had a full-on flashback to this thread. The shame and guilt flooded my mind. I'll make amends.
    Last edited by Gordyman; 03-26-2008 at 08:41 AM.
    Hillshire Farm is sexy

    Grab both cheeks and sink your teeth into the ass of life.

  16. #41
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    2ND ROUND OF PHOTOS

    I can't ever seem to do the same the same way twice, so these photos are not exactly like the ones I posted before. I hope they help.

    First one addresses re-assembly if you go the take-apart route. Getting that spring was an unholy motherfucker, until I figured it out:
    1. Put it back together without the spring and without the spring retaining plate
    2. bolt it to an old ski like this
    Attachment 39762
    3. push the spring in as pictured below (I actually used a screwdriver, but "re-enacted it" with the toothbrush handle because I thought maybe the hard rubber handle might be work well if I had to do it again. I'm sorry, I'm nuts)
    like this:
    Attachment 39761

    The rest of the photos are random shit about the non take-apart method. I have had success doing it with the vice, but somebody on page 1 said they do it on a ski with a c-clamp. I fiddled with that idea. I fiddled with a 2x4. I don't know what is the best method.

    I'll say this with certainty: if you do it without taking it apart YOU MUST CLAMP THE SHIT OUT OF IT. I mean tighten that vice down like hell. To protect the bindings I used wood on the ZR-S's I bent. This time I used some high density foam ski boot packing. It was the right size and shape, and it worked.

    I know these don't show the actual bending process, all the wrenches and ski poles and whatever the hell. Like guys said before, brace one section of the brake while reefing on the other. I didn't think to take pics until after I finished the bends.

    One advantage of the clamp/vice bending method is that you can see how the brakes will look. When you remove the brake arms from the rest of the assembly, your reference points are gone. You can bend the arms and they look good, but then they are all to hell when you put it all back to together.

    I think I am just rambling and wish I could bend ten more pair while somebody took pics.
    Last edited by Gordyman; 03-26-2008 at 10:31 PM.
    Hillshire Farm is sexy

    Grab both cheeks and sink your teeth into the ass of life.

  17. #42
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    I have edited this thread to be more helpful and build upon what Slim contributed in his excellent thread.

    Please see the original post as it has been re-done.
    Hillshire Farm is sexy

    Grab both cheeks and sink your teeth into the ass of life.

  18. #43
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    Can anybody see the photos I posted? I may be having trouble with it.
    If not here is a link to flickr where they are hosted:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/1103919...n/photostream/
    Hillshire Farm is sexy

    Grab both cheeks and sink your teeth into the ass of life.

  19. #44
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    can i do this w/ fks 155 brakes?

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordyman View Post
    I can't ever seem to do the same the same way twice, so these photos are not exactly like the ones I posted before. I hope they help.

    First one addresses re-assembly if you go the take-apart route. Getting that spring was an unholy motherfucker, until I figured it out:
    1. Put it back together without the spring and without the spring retaining plate
    2. bolt it to an old ski like this
    Attachment 39762
    3. push the spring in as pictured below (I actually used a screwdriver, but "re-enacted it" with the toothbrush handle because I thought maybe the hard rubber handle might be work well if I had to do it again. I'm sorry, I'm nuts)
    like this:
    Attachment 39761

    The rest of the photos are random shit about the non take-apart method. I have had success doing it with the vice, but somebody on page 1 said they do it on a ski with a c-clamp. I fiddled with that idea. I fiddled with a 2x4. I don't know what is the best method.

    I'll say this with certainty: if you do it without taking it apart YOU MUST CLAMP THE SHIT OUT OF IT. I mean tighten that vice down like hell. To protect the bindings I used wood on the ZR-S's I bent. This time I used some high density foam ski boot packing. It was the right size and shape, and it worked.

    I know these don't show the actual bending process, all the wrenches and ski poles and whatever the hell. Like guys said before, brace one section of the brake while reefing on the other. I didn't think to take pics until after I finished the bends.

    One advantage of the clamp/vice bending method is that you can see how the brakes will look. When you remove the brake arms from the rest of the assembly, your reference points are gone. You can bend the arms and they look good, but then they are all to hell when you put it all back to together.

    I think I am just rambling and wish I could bend ten more pair while somebody took pics.
    can you do this with rossi fks

  21. #46
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    what are your guys thoughts on heating the breaks to bend them yes or no?

  22. #47
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    Skis is offline It's one louder, isn't it
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    One thing I did (trying to adapt Marshal's super simple method) was to clip my boot into the binding to keep things stable. You might get it more compressed with a vice, but I didn't have any tools and I think putting the boot in helped.

  23. #48
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    Fucking yay horray! IT's been restored! Yay TGR!

    Seriously, I was not going to go back and re-do that thing a 3rd time. I know it still needs work, and someday when I get another set of turntables I'll post more helpfull photos. I swear I will. Someday.
    Hillshire Farm is sexy

    Grab both cheeks and sink your teeth into the ass of life.

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skis View Post
    One thing I did (trying to adapt Marshal's super simple method) was to clip my boot into the binding to keep things stable. You might get it more compressed with a vice, but I didn't have any tools and I think putting the boot in helped.
    I believe now with the right sized pipe wrenches to imobilize the upper brake arm, you can do a good bend by just sticking a boot into the bindings on a skinny ski. I did some marker brake arms, which are as or more stout than Look brake arms.

    I spend too much time wrenching on gear. I need to ski.
    Hillshire Farm is sexy

    Grab both cheeks and sink your teeth into the ass of life.

  25. #50
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    how do i isolate the part where im bending?

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