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  1. #626
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    Mar 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    OG STH16 with GW? No.
    like.. "official" no, I know.
    but practical use...?

  2. #627
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    Just updating this thread with the info that sth2 brake arms (not the whole brake housing, just the arms) are compatible with 9xx and vice versa. Carry on.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #628
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    Oct 2008
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    Sally 997/977/916/920/900s/912/914 etc thread, all u ever wanted to know

    Moving a heel forward on sth2 and writing is worn
    Is this in the suggested range?
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    Life of a repo man is always intense.

  4. #629
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    Jan 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by otto parts View Post
    Moving a heel forward on sth2 and writing is worn
    Is this in the suggested range?
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    I'd say that's bordering to too far forward. See the black marks on either side of the screw track? They're the forward limit. Also, with current settings the adjustment screw head is yet not flush with the housing so it will need an additional click or two forward to get there...

  5. #630
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    ^ Agreed. Need to add about 3mm to your BSL, eh? JB Weld.

  6. #631
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    forget that! I can jb the track to the binder bro.
    Life of a repo man is always intense.

  7. #632
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    608
    Sally binding experts: is there any quick fix for an STH14 heel piece worm screw that doesn’t seem to move the heel piece at all? I’ve got a slightly shorter BSL this year and I can’t make my STH14 heel piece move on my beloved old 185cm Rossi Scimitars.

  8. #633
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Land of Brine Shrimp and Magic Underwear
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    Anyone have any input on whether or not driver style (flat AFD) toe baseplates are swappable with spheric style (weird dual AFD)? All of my 916s have spheric toe AFDs and they kinda suck. They're all missing the white AFD parts and they're generally are kinda sloppy. Obviously I'd need to keep the metal pedestal. I think they're compatible, so also looking to source some flat AFD Driver toe baseplates if anyone's holding. Have six pairs I'd like to potentially replace.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow, and flying through the air

  9. #634
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    Jul 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by beaterdit View Post
    Anyone have any input on whether or not driver style (flat AFD) toe baseplates are swappable with spheric style (weird dual AFD)? All of my 916s have spheric toe AFDs and they kinda suck. They're all missing the white AFD parts and they're generally are kinda sloppy. Obviously I'd need to keep the metal pedestal. I think they're compatible, so also looking to source some flat AFD Driver toe baseplates if anyone's holding. Have six pairs I'd like to potentially replace.
    Yes, you can mix & match 916 main toe with ANY of the following toe base plates:
    - "old driver" is what I call the flat white strip that is not as wide as the new driver AFDs, and with the old ones you have the option to include or exclude the shock absorbing rubbery shim under the whole toe. Plus there is a variation of the shim that is more rigid than the rubbery ones.
    - "spheric" is what I call the ones with 2 triangle pads, and it rocks side-to-side a bit by hand when no boot inserted.
    - "new driver" is what I call the extra-wide flat white strip ones. (***BUT it's possible to order the wrong part, which can look the same, but is intended for a DIN=14 version of the toe---still you can just make that part fit well enough with a 916.)

    "spheric" ones seem like theoretically less transmission, but honestly I can't detect any dissatisfaction/slop even on stiff flex=3 carbon Lotus138 underfoot edging on firm snow. Still, I'm superstitious about it, and believe the extra-wide "new driver" AFD's are somehow theoretically a tiny bit better for skis wider than say >122mm underfoot... But really that possible difference is no big difference at all---the bigger decision is whether to include or exclude the shock absorbing rubbery toe shim whenever I mount an "old driver" AFD.

    .
    - TRADE your heavy PROTESTS for my lightweight version at this thread

    "My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane

    "I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy

  10. #635
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    Jul 2004
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    NorCal
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    Quote Originally Posted by DGamms View Post
    Sally binding experts: is there any quick fix for an STH14 heel piece worm screw that doesn’t seem to move the heel piece at all? I’ve got a slightly shorter BSL this year and I can’t make my STH14 heel piece move on my beloved old 185cm Rossi Scimitars.
    If the heel cannot be adjusted AT ALL, like it will neither move fore nor aft,---then that heel sounds very sketchy to me.

    On the other hand, if it moves fore and aft just fine whenever you get it into its middle position, then that means you are successfully moving it fore to its maximally fore position, where it stops (by design). If that's the case, I have heard of people "cheating" by filing off the "stopper" part at the end of the screw, which allows these people to override the stopping point and position the heel more fore than designed. My guess is that 2-3mm of cheating might still be safe enough, but not sure how far is unsafely far. To be safe, you'd have to evaluate the safety of the new not-as-designed position of the heel and the forces & contact points of the heel within the track.

    .
    - TRADE your heavy PROTESTS for my lightweight version at this thread

    "My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane

    "I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy

  11. #636
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    SoCal
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    I've squeezed a bit more forward STH(1) heel adjustment by grinding off the flare on the front of the adjustment screw with a Dremel.
    Last edited by 1000-oaks; 11-22-2019 at 07:47 PM.

  12. #637
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    Oct 2002
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    Masshole
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    751
    Are the STH 14 and FFG 14 binders compadible with grip walk soles?

  13. #638
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    Not officially, but no doubt people have done it. You'd have to adjust the toe height yourself, a shop wouldn't do it. Start with toe high and lower to boot lug.

  14. #639
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    FR&CH
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    Something a bit weird happened last season with my STH2, I was skiing and the brakes released while the boot was still inside the binding. So the brakes were disengaged and rubbing against the snow. I don't really understand how physically it's possible but it happened. My boots were full of snow when I clicked in before it happened though, so maybe it's that ?
    When it happened I just clicked again and no problem, but it happened again the next day, same context, boots full of sticky spring snow when I clicked in.
    Has anyone experienced that already ? I'm trying to figure ou if it's the snow or if the binding (or brake) is faulty.
    I tried to reproduce the problem but no success.

  15. #640
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    Mar 2018
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    Lake Wallenpaupack, PA
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    Sally 997/977/916/920/900s/912/914 etc thread, all u ever wanted to know

    Is the brake screw loose.....something similar was happening to my buddies Sollies....it was just a matter of tightening the single brake screw at the heel. maybe???

    *Disregard....Sorry, I’m an idiot. He wasn’t on STH2 bindings...must of been some other crap Salomon like a Z12 or something.
    Last edited by BC.; 12-08-2019 at 01:42 PM.

  16. #641
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    I'll check next weekend ! Thanks !

  17. #642
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    NorCal
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuntmanbo View Post
    I'll check next weekend ! Thanks !
    No such screw exists in the STH2 design. Instead, the brake slides onto the heel track.

    My guess is your layer of caked snow resulted in your boot being in a super-high position, and then your brake deployed when the snow layer thickness somehow decreased where the brake depressor thingy is positioned, without the snow layer thickness decreasing aft of that brake depressor thingy. Solution for that would be: Don't ski with a thick layer of caked snow on your boot.

    .
    - TRADE your heavy PROTESTS for my lightweight version at this thread

    "My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane

    "I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy

  18. #643
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    Mar 2018
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    Lake Wallenpaupack, PA
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    Sally 997/977/916/920/900s/912/914 etc thread, all u ever wanted to know

    Quote Originally Posted by Vitamin I View Post
    No such screw exists in the STH2 design. Instead, the brake slides onto the heel track.

    My guess is your layer of caked snow resulted in your boot being in a super-high position, and then your brake deployed when the snow layer thickness somehow decreased where the brake depressor thingy is positioned, without the snow layer thickness decreasing aft of that brake depressor thingy. Solution for that would be: Don't ski with a thick layer of caked snow on your boot.

    .
    He’s right...sorry...no screw on the STH2...it’s a slider/popper inner. I’m obviously jonging my Salomon knowledge. I’m slipping...better take my Solly tech cert again....lol

    *Edited my response above to show I’m an idiot...

  19. #644
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    654

    Sally 997/977/916/920/900s/912/914 etc thread, all u ever wanted to know

    STH2 experts...mounting up a pair. Two questions.

    First one is a JONGer...but with boot engaged we are looking for tension indicator knobby thing to be flush vs it’s housing, yeah? (Like in pic 2 below. Not recessed or protruding like pic 1 & 3)

    Second, below is mockup for a 306 BSL with 306 template. Boot centerline marking looks pretty nuts vs. mock ski center so I think it’s good...but how’s the binding heel position on the heel track look? I don’t have a frame of reference here.

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    **EDIT: never mind, found the info in the Salomon tech manual. Leaving in case it helps another.

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    Last edited by dgilligan02; 01-03-2020 at 11:59 PM.

  20. #645
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    Aug 2008
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    Where the climate suits my clothes.
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    5,601
    Ok guys, I'm way out of the loop. I need a few new bindings and I think its finally time to move on from my collection of old Drivers.

    I know pretty much nothing about the STH2 13/16, so school me.

    What are the construction differences between the two? Same as old ones where the 16 gets a metal heel and the other one plastic?

    How do the new (I know, not so new..) toes compare with the old ones?

    Any known issues to be aware of?

    More importantly, do the heels 'clunk' when you step into em??
    Last edited by JayPowHound; 10-02-2020 at 02:36 PM.

  21. #646
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    Dec 2004
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    SoCal
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    (Below doesn't apply to 916.)

    STH series has a metal heel track and a metal band that ties together the pivot points, STH2 heel is all plastic. Toes are about the same from STH to STH2, except the STH2 has toe wing rollers. STH2 is about 4mm to 5mm higher off the ski depending on which STH you compare it to.

    I like STH binders a lot. STH2 don't clunk as solid but work fine, I'd put STH2 in same class as Marker Royal.
    Last edited by 1000-oaks; 10-02-2020 at 05:14 PM.

  22. #647
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    Dec 2004
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    SoCal
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    Here's the stress crack in the plastic that results in AFD's falling off 916 and STH Steel toe wings.

    If you still have attached AFD's on yours, working a bit of Loctite Epoxy Plastic Bonder (regular epoxy doesn't stick to the black plastic) into the seam between the black plastic and the painted metal all the way around the AFD should definitely help keep it in place. If the AFD is barely hanging on or fell off but you have the loose piece, you could apply Plastic Bonder to the back side of the AFD wherever it touches the metal, and clamp it in place while it cures for a hopefully permanent fix.

    Maybe someone that's a whiz at 3D printing could make replacement AFD's for folks that have lost theirs.

    Last edited by 1000-oaks; 10-28-2020 at 09:26 PM.

  23. #648
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    Oct 2006
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    Bellevue
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    I bet casting is the way to go for that part. Maybe 3d print the master or even the mold? Good idea though. I think I have a few dangling toe AFDs and I know I've been putting off repairing several on toes I haven't put on skis yet. Worth taking some time to see if I can make something useful before doing the usual jbweld repair.

  24. #649
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    Feb 2010
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    Portland by way of Bozeman
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    Here's the stress crack in the plastic that results in AFD's falling off 916 and STH Steel toe wings.

    If you still have attached AFD's on yours, working a bit of epoxy into the seam between the black plastic and the painted metal all the way around the AFD should definitely help keep it in place. If the AFD is barely hanging on or fell off but you have the loose piece, you could apply epoxy to the back side of the AFD wherever it touches the metal, and clamp it in place while it cures for a permanent fix.

    Maybe someone that's a whiz at 3D printing could make replacement AFD's for folks that have lost theirs.

    Good info. Now I need to go check my STH Steels

  25. #650
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    Dec 2004
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    Well crap, G/Flex epoxy doesn't stick to the black AFD plastic. Will try Loctite Epoxy Plastic Bonder next, hopefully that works.

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