Results 601 to 625 of 774
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01-16-2018, 06:42 PM #601
Right, but if you pop the boot in and out or push the cuff of the boot toward the front or rear of the ski, it changes your result. And I'm not talking about very much effort or even holding it there. If your finger pressure it in either direction, then you can get a sticky card or a loose card or finally just a slightly loose card.
Also, does it matter if it's an old Diver with the Spheric AFD or a Guardian with a sliding AFD?
PS, I learned you go a little passed touching with the wings. Like a quarter turn or so.
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01-16-2018, 07:33 PM #602but not a marker fanboy
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With boot in binding, I stick my hand down into the boot and pull up and back, so the toe lifts up. When there is slight resistance with the boot pulled up and back, it's good. Which usually translates to the card being pretty tight, but still able to move just barely, when not pulling up on the boot. That's how I've always done it with the Driver toes, fixed or spheric AFDs.
Is that what you're asking about?
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01-16-2018, 09:18 PM #603
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01-17-2018, 10:27 AM #604
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01-20-2018, 01:57 AM #605one-track mind
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To test toe height, I always put ski on the floor, kneel on it (partial bodyweight on one knee on ski behind the boot), then use one hand to pull aftward on the highest point of boot shell (the plastic that would be behind your calf), and that forces boot toe to contact the underneath surface of the upper contact point of the toe piece, then use other hand to pull the business card/paper. This method is not official nor in any manual, as far as I know.
I NEVER see such sensitivity that you see. My toe is usually around DIN=11. If your DIN is lower, try increasing DIN just for your tests, just to eliminate sensitivities, then after toe height is properly adjusted, then re-adjust your DIN back down to whatever you ski at.
The main goal: Make toe height low enough to eliminate loose up/down slop, and make toe height high enough so the toe isn't already moved into the elastic travel range just by clicking the boot in.
.- TRADE your heavy PROTESTS for my lightweight version at this thread
"My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane
"I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy
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01-20-2018, 02:25 AM #606one-track mind
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Those bindings suck, but I sometimes use them anyway. Personally, I am comfy using that exact demo binding model with these constraints:
- Only temp usage planned. Like <10 days skiing, like just to discover my fave mount position of a ski, so I can soon remount a better binding on same ski at my fave position. After dialing in my fave position, my friends and I end up skiing a few extra days on them, but I keep the risk exposure below 10 days.
- I don't go into no-fall zones with them, no double-stagers, nor do anything very rad.
- Ski waist <110mm only.
- I'm 6'2", I vary between 205-230lbs, and with the constraints above, I trust them for my body size. But my 6'5" 250 lb friend borrowed my skis for 3 ski days, and he had no problem breaking some plastic directly behind the brake housing. That pair of bindings is still skiable after that.
Old Salomon tab heels seem aged and risky to me, but if you decide to accept the risk of old tab heels in general, then this model's demo track seems LEAST risky of all the tab heels...because this demo track has 6 screws, instead of the 4-screw non-demo tab heels. I think the biggest risk is the rear of the metal track can squirt up and out from the rearmost pair of screws, so if this happens to the demo heel, you still have 4 screws holding you in as you try to recover from the fall, and get yourself down safely as you abort the day and retire the shattered plastic base of the heel piece.
If you want an everyday binding, then treat yourself to something better.
.- TRADE your heavy PROTESTS for my lightweight version at this thread
"My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane
"I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy
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01-20-2018, 12:30 PM #607
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03-30-2018, 10:53 AM #608
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03-30-2018, 01:41 PM #609
I reused the holes in a used ski, and needed a smidge more forward adjustment to get the forward pressure correct. Ground off the flare on the adjustment screws to get another 1/16". If you do this, be sure to tape off the area well to keep metal grindings out of the mechanism and track. Pack with binding grease when done to slow rusting of the screw.
Last edited by 1000-oaks; 03-30-2018 at 07:45 PM.
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03-30-2018, 02:33 PM #610If it's green, smoke it...if it's pink, poke it
BUY THESE------> 193 iM 103 - $50 https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...d.php?t=179797
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03-30-2018, 03:31 PM #611
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03-30-2018, 04:59 PM #612
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03-30-2018, 05:10 PM #613Banned
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- Sep 2017
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04-03-2018, 12:38 PM #614
Shop Rats:
Found some BNIB Solly "E Lithium 10" bindings on eBay for crazy cheap. They will be going on some 156s i bought my girlfriend. She is a beginner, probably din 4.
I haven't been able to find much on these clamps, they seem to be just OEM bindings for solly beginner/intermediate skis - perfect for what I am doing.
Can anyone confirm?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using TGR Forums mobile appBest Skier on the Mountain
Self-Certified
1992 - 2012
Squaw Valley, USA
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04-03-2018, 12:59 PM #615
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02-24-2019, 02:52 PM #616Registered User
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- Nov 2018
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- 134
Looking thru this thread I found some info but not a complete answer on this. Removing the inner din spring from the dual spring set up, in this case sth 16's. Our idea is to do this temporarily for use by a family member, expert skier but unfortunately not as young and strong as he once was. I think we should have him around 7.5 din to be on the safe side. Other than the din the set up is perfect for the trip.
So the questions are, is it really a good idea, any risks or downside and how does the removal of the inner spring effect the din values? I've seen opinions of both 2 and 4 din reduction and are those reductions right across the board or is it more gradual, for instance 2 lower at the minimum and 4 at the maximum. Any help on this would be most appreciated.
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02-24-2019, 07:12 PM #617
Think it's a reduction of about 3, but a shop guy who has tested it would know best. Should be across the range, these springs are linear.
Last edited by 1000-oaks; 02-25-2019 at 09:11 AM.
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02-24-2019, 11:18 PM #618
You can't just dial back to 7? IMO the bigger safety issue may be a skier who thinks he is as good as he once was, once. See it all the time.
A few people feel the rain. Most people just get wet.
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02-25-2019, 12:55 AM #619one-track mind
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My experience with 2 concentric springs is ONLY with Sally bindings that are higher DIN than your STH 16. I didn't even know that STH 16 bothered to have concentric springs (because 916's achieve DIN=16 strength without concentric springs). If I had to guess, I'd guess that removal of the inner spring from a STH 16 might turn it into the equivalent of a STH 14 (which is an actual product)...which would mean a reduction of 2.
So, when you say you've seen opinions of both 2 and 4 din reduction by removal of the inner spring, were those opinions referring to STH 16 precisely?
If you get past that, then yes, I agree the springs should be linear---a constant reduction in DIN strength across the whole range.
.- TRADE your heavy PROTESTS for my lightweight version at this thread
"My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane
"I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy
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02-25-2019, 08:05 AM #620Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2018
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- 134
I didn't read anything about the concentric springs in this thread that referred specifically to sth models. It all related to earlier ones and I believe, higher din models but also 916 was mentioned. Now I was getting cross eyed at that point so could easily be wrong on 916. But for sure this particular sth 16 has that spring setup, I've had them out before.
And I think I remember reading somewhere, I wasn't looking for it at the time, just ran across it, just like you suggest, the sth 16 and sth 14 at some point in time were identical in every respect except for the extra inner spring added to the sth 16. And if that is the case with the ones we have here, then we're good to go. Pull the inner spring, set to 9.5 which becomes 7.5 and set the old billy goat free.
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02-25-2019, 09:14 AM #621
STH16 is an STH14 with these upgrades:
Metal toe pedestal
Aluminum spring caps
Concentric springs (the outer springs are not the same as the STH14 springs)
916/STH-Steel doesn't have concentric springs, but they're larger diameter than STH (with Driver toe) springs so they don't need the extra inner springs to reach 16.
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02-25-2019, 10:48 AM #622Registered User
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- Nov 2018
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So if we had some 14's we could just swap the springs and go. Don't have but maybe we can find some. Now there are some sth 12's around here, but not driver toe. What about swapping those springs in? If they are compatible/fit that puts us right in the range we want for him.
And as far as just removing the inner spring from the 16's, is that simply unknown territory or not recommended for some reason. I'm thinking to at least make a comparison with and without the inner spring. Compare the two toes, one with both springs and one with inner spring removed. Measure the torque required to get the one with both springs to say 10 din, then apply the same torque to the other with inner spring removed and see where it takes it in the indicator window. What do you think?
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02-25-2019, 11:04 AM #623Registered User
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- Nov 2018
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The plot thickens. I just remembered and now found them buried away, a set of s912 ti's, demo set up. It has a driver (style) toe. We could use the toe springs from them and the heel springs from the sth 12's, convert the sth 16's temporarily into sth 12 and go with that. maybe??
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02-25-2019, 09:02 PM #624
yo - what's the word on STH16 and gripwalk? we good?
any word on whether solly is switching from WTR to Gripwalk for the new STH2? It seems like that's what we're going with, yeah?
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02-25-2019, 09:25 PM #625
OG STH16 with GW? No.
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