Sally 997/977/916/920/900s/912/914 etc thread, all u ever wanted to know

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[PlayItLeo]

Send them to me for disposal.

Seriously though, those clamps look like they're in awesome shape (caveat - I have non-indemnified Sollys on 75% of my quiver.)

I figured no shop would touch mine, but for the hell of it, I brought them to my local shop (flatlandia - definitely not a core/bro shop) and asked if they'd torque test them - the response was "sure, no problem." So if you're worried about them, bring them to a shop (with a 6er, just in case).

I guess, and correct me if I'm wrong, shop mags, that a shop can't mount old bindings, and can't adjust them, and will say that they fail visual inspection, but they can bench test them and let you know if they're releasing to spec.

[MC Slayer]

I guess, and correct me if I'm wrong, shop mags, that a shop can't mount old bindings, and can't adjust them, and will say that they fail visual inspection, but they can bench test them and let you know if they're releasing to spec.

Mostly true.

Ultimately, I use my own discretion. If broseph seems sketchy/the suing type/ill informed/cheapass I usually don't even mention the possibility of remounting. However, when beer is involved/you actually understand why manufacturers indemnify their bindings, I just have you sign a waiver saying you understand that we're gonna mount bindings that you shouldn't be using and that the manufacturer suggests you don't use.

Not entirely sure how liability-free this actually is, but my shop gives me liberty to do so, so I imagine their lawyers know what they're doing when they create the legal documents we use.

More importantly: When I see a legitimate binding; Sally drivers, Pivots, or Marker racing bindings (somewhat sketchy still), I'm more inclined to make exceptions and mount. I still suggest you get them tested though.

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Thx guys

[LC]

Anyone got tips for 920 Lab forward pressure adjustment? I picked up some GS skis last night from a local racer, cheap. DINs are 12-20 not 14-20, I didn't know those existed.

On all of my other wormscrew Salomons the screw head is about 4mm away from the end of the heel track without a boot engaged. On the Labs it's about 9mm away. If I aim for screw head flush to the back of the track with boot engaged on the Labs then they are clearly set too small. If I measure it so that the screw moves 4mm out when a boot engages then the length seems about right visually. Is that the way to go?

Lab 920:


STH 16 Steel:

[1000-oaks]

Here you go:


What's interesting: this means these Soli heels can back-travel 3mm during deep ski flex before bottoming out on the screw. Ions can go 5mm, and Dynafit Radicals have a 5.3mm pin gap. Tech heels need more back travel because the boot can push out at the toe pins during deep ski flex, whereas an alpine toe can take the pressure spike.

[LC]

OK I was 1mm out with my guess. Thanks!

[dgilligan02]

Having no takers to tune the 900s', anybody want to buy them?

[PlayItLeo]

All the info you need to set them up is in this thread. Set forward pressure, toe height, toe wings, and go ride. If not, generous guy that I am, I'll take them off your hands for the price of shipping.

[dgilligan02]

All the info you need to set them up is in this thread. Set forward pressure, toe height, toe wings, and go ride.

You've inspired me, gonna give it a go. Seems doable, thanks.

[1000-oaks]

For 900 and STH Driver series:
1. Open up toe wing adjustment with small flathead screwdriver. (Ramming a boot into toe wings that are adjusted too narrow is probably what strips Salomon wing adjustment screws.)
2. Back off DIN to minimum for that binding so it's easier to work with.
3. Adjust toe height so you see about 1/8" of silver metal that wraps around the toe pedestal (look under the toe head, where the rubber boot is). If you're using a WTR sole, make it more like 3/16".
4. Snap your boot into the binding, making sure the boot toe isn't caught underneath the little rectangular center AFD between the wings. It's fine if there's a gap between the sides of the boot and the wing AFDs.
5. Adjust forward pressure until the face of the screw is flush with the end of the heel track for worm screw heels. Tab heels adjust differently.
6. Adjust toe height. Pulling back on the cuff of the boot (to make sure boot toe is up against the wings), lower the binding toe until you have a thin business card gap (or a sheet of paper) between the boot and the sole AFD.
7. Push the boot sideways against one toe wing, and adjust the wing screw until the wings barely touch the boot on both sides. Do not go more narrow than just touching. (916 Lab, 920 and other metal toes have dual wing adjustment screws.)
8. Adjust toe & heel DIN.
9. Pop the boot in and out of the binding a few times and re-check the forward pressure adjustment.
10. Ski.

[SeatownSlackey]

quick Q, anyone know if brake arms are interchangeable between STH and STH 2? not the whole brake assembly, just talking arms here.

[1000-oaks]

STH and non-STH arms are the same, can't help you on the STH2.

[dgilligan02]

As evidenced by my couple posts here previously, total nooooob on doing anything like mounting/adjusting bindings. But what the hell, ya gotta start somewhere. Set out to adjust mounted bindings on a pair of old skis to new boots. Thought it should be pretty easy. My 900s have the tab adjustment. Alas, with the most forward tab position the boot toe seems to be right up against the toe piece...however just barely. And there seems to be no forward pressure at all as the indicator arrows on the tab remain unmoved at rest (red arrow), instead of having moved to the milled out area (green arrow).

I guess this means I'll be attempting binding remount numero uno. A couple of questions for feedback/opinion on that:

1. My thought is I'll just remount the heel plate forward a bit. Mocking it up, should end up with the boot being +1 or +2 cm forward, For a resort skier like me I think that's not a big deal. Need to work out the math on how many cm I'll move the heel plate up exactly, but any wisdom/foolishness in moving heel up vs toe back?
2. Any rule of thumb on min. cm needing to be allowed between old/new holes?
3. Planning on filling existing holes with some J-Weld. http://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-...65-s/100189012
4. If anybody can confirm the proper drill bit to be used (original screws) I'd greatly appreciate it.
5. Simple wood glue on the screws going into new holes?

[wooley12]

Whatever you decide to do, make sure that the next boards you mount those on are 2 X 4s.

[adrenalated]

1. My thought is I'll just remount the heel plate forward a bit. Mocking it up, should end up with the boot being +1 or +2 cm forward, For a resort skier like me I think that's not a big deal. Need to work out the math on how many cm I'll move the heel plate up exactly, but any wisdom/foolishness in moving heel up vs toe back?
2. Any rule of thumb on min. cm needing to be allowed between old/new holes?
3. Planning on filling existing holes with some J-Weld. http://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-...65-s/100189012
4. If anybody can confirm the proper drill bit to be used (original screws) I'd greatly appreciate it.
5. Simple wood glue on the screws going into new holes?

1) I'd move the toe back instead, would keep your boot closer to the BC line on the ski, unless you want to be mounted forward of the line.
2) 1cm between old and new holes
3) JB Weld or epoxy works, and I've done it that way, but now I use plastic hole plugs + epoxy
4) 3.6x9mm for most skis, 4.1x9mm plus tap the hole for skis with a metal sheet
5) everyone has their own opinion here. I use two part marine grade epoxy. Wood glue is fine though.

[Knut]

^^what he said

5) everyone has their own opinion here. I use two part marine grade epoxy. Wood glue is fine though.

I'd like to add that it should be water resistant wood glue.

[Spew]

Salomon Alpine Binding Tech Manual 2015-2016. Has mounting+adjustment for STH2 (STH²) bindings, compatibility with WTR Quest or Max boots. Directions differ slightly from 997 and STH for adjusting wing and toe, so have a look.
http://salomontechnician.com/uploads...nual_15-16.pdf

[SWskier]

$10 thrift store find on an old pair of skis. Metal heel 957 14 din. They appear to be in excellent condition. Hardly a scratch on em.

Safe? Mount em up?

[PlayItLeo]

Yep. I'll take them if you're not going to use them....

[1000-oaks]

Tell me those weren't on a pair of black 1991 Blizzard Thermo GS skis...I need to call my buddy over there and get those back, feeling nostalgic.

[SWskier]

Honestly can't remember what they were on. It was a few years ago, and I've had em just sitting in a box. Going to put on on the $75 Goliath blowout special from Shirk last spring. $100 setup all in.

[LC]

I got a pair of older 916s from Gear Swap but they are missing one of the flat springs for this type of AFD. Anyone out there got a spare old toe piece that could salvage one from for me? I think any Salomon with the double AFD pads has this spring in there (you can see part of it on the underside too). Nothing in my friends' shop.

Otherwise, if I was to mount without this is it a big deal? The floating AFD seems like it might be a little loose and rattle but I'm not sure if that affects functionality & safety.

Would it be worth my time to try to make a replacement? I can get 1.2mm 303 or 316 steel round bar on eBay cheap.

[Mechmaster]

Will the brake arms from a STH2 brake fit in the square style baseplate of a 916?

I need some 130mm brakes, but I am having issues finding the older style.

[wooley12]

Pretty sure you can swap brakes arms of the STH into the 916 baseball plate