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Thread: Remounting in the same holes.
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12-31-2020, 03:22 PM #51Gel-powered Tech bindings
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I_know_it_when_I_see_it
(Seriously, it's just that feeling how it you turn it one more 1/4 turn that instead of tightening down it's gonna spin.)Mo' skimo here: NE Rando Race Series
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12-31-2020, 03:24 PM #52Gel-powered Tech bindings
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Mo' skimo here: NE Rando Race Series
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12-31-2020, 03:33 PM #53Registered User
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tighten till it strips and then back it off 1/4 turn was the saying
i just use epoxy all the time as best practises and i will probably never go thru that whole bottle before its NFGLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-31-2020, 03:42 PM #54Registered User
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exactly ^^ but actualy the chopped FG strands are the filler the slow set epoxy is what holds the FG and ski all togetehr
I glop it togetehr in a well wetted out ( less resin is stronger) but not too resin rich wad and cram it in the holes
i have macgyvered all kinds of thing, a whole lot of computersLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-31-2020, 04:15 PM #55
Problem: How to reverse turn binding screw to achieve "clunk" when binding base itself is threaded for the screw?
So, I imagine this is a near universal problem. Or maybe I'm just clueless. But when turning screws backwards to get that "clunk" meaning you're at the start of the threads and can start screwing them in: I can achieve this for 2 or 3 of 4 screws on a given toe assembly or heel assembly. But I can never get the fourth screw. Why? It has to do with the fact that the binding base holding the screws is itself threaded. So the screw threads never sits directly on top of/in contact with the threads in the ski and when it does, the binding plate won't lift/drop ("clunk") because the other screws are holding it firm.
My unsophisticated brain says I could fix this by removing the screw from the binding base and strip out the threads (carefully) from the binding plastic so the screw can move up & down freely. Any other ideas?
Sidenote: This "feature" seems like a way mfgs keep the screws in the bindings during shipping at minimal cost, which I get. But it's not good for remounts.
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12-31-2020, 04:37 PM #56Registered User
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yeah do this ^^ I would just gouge a little of the thin plastic with the tail of a file or use a drill bit in yer hand, the shoulder at the very edges of the screw is going to do the holding not the skinny plastic
I don't remember if the screws come stuck in the binding right out of the box but i recently remounted a Dynafit Vertical toe for a buddy who had ripped it off the ski and lost it on piste, he found it 6 months later with all the screws still in the plastic base plate which was pretty handy,Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-31-2020, 04:50 PM #57
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12-31-2020, 06:50 PM #58Registered User
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12-31-2020, 08:25 PM #59Registered User
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same result as tighten til it strips and back it off 1/4 turn
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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01-03-2021, 11:59 AM #60Registered User
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So I took a razor to the volcanoes and whacked them down as close to even to the top sheets as seemed reasonable without fing with the holes and threads. Threads look pretty clean and distinct in there. I’ve got to go to the hardware store and get new glue since mine is now a substance closer to paste.
Anyone care to comment? Best job evvvaaar or I’m gonna die?
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01-03-2021, 12:01 PM #61Registered User
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P. S. Lesson learned about trying to use a countersink bit. It was a bad idea IMO. It started to strip the threads quickly. Maybe I used the wrong size but just didn’t seem like the right tool.
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01-03-2021, 12:09 PM #62Registered User
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Dee hubbs mentioned running a countersink bit BACKWARDS as the pro tip
really its not a job you need a power tool for cuz just rotating a 3/8ths bit
by hand will put enough chamfer on a NEW screw hole
I will put a nice neat chmfer on a new hole which will then prevent the volcano
cuz the Volcano material has been removed,
but putting a chamfer on a old hole doesn't work as good cuz its all rough so I would
just cut any extra volcano-ed material off the ski flush however you want to do it,
IME a razor scraper works wellLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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01-03-2021, 01:16 PM #63Registered User
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If you are remounting in holes with prior epoxy in them, I like to redrill the hole, being careful not to drill the threads out. If your screw is a bit longer than the screw used previous, you will bottom out before the binding is tight to the ski surface. You can also strip out the threads trying to get the bottomed out screw in
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01-03-2021, 02:05 PM #64Registered User
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Ima feel real dumb if I’m wrong here but what the hell. I liked the idea of counter screwing into the existing threads until I felt them engage. But the binders I’m mounting are new P18’s. As such the screws are pre- screwed into the plastic base plates. Seems to be common these days and maybe it’s done to more easily ship screws already in situ. All that said i can’t really unscrew them / counter screw them in order to have them fall into the existing threads.
So, I’m either going to take my chances and screw them in and hope they catch the threads or miss the threads and maybe need to BF or helicoil them. Anyone make any sense of that?
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01-03-2021, 02:13 PM #65
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01-03-2021, 02:47 PM #66Registered User
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Score! Thanks
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01-03-2021, 02:48 PM #67
^^^ this... but all you need is a bit that's about the same size as the threads of the screw and drill out the base plate.
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01-03-2021, 05:06 PM #68Registered User
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I have just drilled out dynafit holes with no problems.
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01-04-2021, 06:12 PM #69
Just got a pair of Swiss cheesed skis for rock boards. There’s a previous mount that works for me but it is plugged with plastic plugs. Was thinking I’d just center punch the plugs, use a 3.6 drill bit, drill straight thru the plastic plug and mount them with some quick set. Am I crazy?
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01-04-2021, 06:16 PM #70
I've always pulled the plugs out by drilling a smaller hole part way into them, then threading in a wood screw and pulling them out. Might be overkill, but my worry with drilling a plug at 3.6mm has always been that I'll be a little off center and leave some of the plug in, then effectively have the screw trying to hold into a sliver of plug and pull out.
Zero evidence on my end to support that hypothesis, so make of it what you will. I'd just rather take a little extra time to do something I know is bomber than have the question in the back of my head as I'm airing off something, you know?
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01-04-2021, 06:18 PM #71
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01-04-2021, 06:25 PM #72
^^^^
Thanks. Just needed some internet reinforcement to pull the trigger
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01-04-2021, 06:28 PM #73
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01-04-2021, 06:31 PM #74self proclaimed JONG!
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01-08-2021, 08:31 PM #75Banned
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So, as a piece of evidence that re-using holes is a-ok, there was (perhaps they still do it the same way, but I can't say) a shop in Utah that was renowned for the quality of it's tunes, and every single pair of skis that got a full tune there had the bindings removed and remounted, because they felt they got a superior tune versus using a bridge.
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